Methods of getting stuck bolts out.

[Phill Tibbetts]

Evidence that the most mis-named tool in the world does occasionally work!

Those square easy outs are the only ones I could ever get to work. The spiral ones just swell the broken stud even more.

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

A former co-worker had a saying: "As long as I got this here hammer, ain't no such thing as stuck."

We always said don't force it, get a bigger hammer.

 

[Brown David]

Groundhog day?

 

[Jim.ME]

There is no magic bullet. Different materials under different conditions seize differently. Sometimes one thing or combination works, next time it might be something else or a different combination that works. Multiple methods should be at hand. JMHO

 

[miangus]

Heat cool, repeat if required. The trick is to heat the bolt and expand it into the treaded hole, cooling pulls it away. Welding a nut on always seems to work. If it is a fresh break and not seized a left-hand drill bit is your friend. I had a friend who though I reached for the blue wrench too quickly.

 

[Jaden]

Usually, a good penetrating oil and lots of patience work for me.

 

[paulsamwel]

Thought it would be an interesting topic to see other guys techniques. We all deal with them at one time or another!

Extract alloy has always worked for me.

 

[Caryc]

I got new brake drums for my MF202. There is one big screw/bolt with a counter sunk head in each drum. I tried everything I could think of to get them out. I even bought the big socket drive screw driver blade to no avail.

I even tried to heat them up with a propane torch, no luck. I have a neighbor that has a cutting torch rig and he brought that over to my place. He heated the heads up to red and I was able to get them out with a regular hand screw driver. They practically fell out. Nothing beats heat.

 

[Non-farmer]

A former co-worker had a saying: "As long as I got this here hammer, ain't no such thing as stuck."

Rule #2: If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.

 

[CEP ACB]

Rule #2: If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.

My motto too.
And an oxy , acetylene torch is my go to.

Sometimes rattling them and around them with a air hammer helps too.
And it depends on the rust. Michigan rust is worse than Arizona rust.

 

[Farmall M 248]

Just had to drill and re-tap the 5/8 bolts on the front bolster on my Farmall M. Not fun, those old IH bolts were hard and good quality.

 

[Texasmark]

Thought it would be an interesting topic to see other guys techniques. We all deal with them at one time or another!

I soak em and impact em. Never had to use heat but that was the alternative plan if the original plan didn't work.

 

[buickanddeere]

Have this job coming up on the JD 70 gas that has to be ready for Father’s funeral .
Rad core has to be changed . However the bolts extend through the tanks and into the coolant . So even if the thread in the casting breaks loose . There could be several crusty swollen threads to draw back through the casting .

 

[cjunrau]

Have this job coming up on the JD 70 gas that has to be ready for Father’s funeral .
Rad core has to be changed . However the bolts extend through the tanks and into the coolant . So even if the thread in the casting breaks loose . There could be several crusty swollen threads to draw back through the casting .

A trick with that would be to fill with vinigar and move the bolts with impact driver back and forth. I say impact driver not impact wrench because a driver has less power and will not snap the bolt as easy if at all.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I prefer Kroil, PB is second if you can get it to move a bit. I've tried the candle wax method but if it's hot enough to do any good the wax just burns off before it can penetrate. I was always reluctant to use the torch but I found it's the most effective.