filled tires

KSSteve

New User
I've got a John Deere 4020 tractor with filled tires, 18.3 x 34 so big. One just started leaking a small amount around the valve stem. (It's not a valve core problem.) I think the rim is still useably solid.

There's no way I could take it off and lift it; this is my only tractor? The nearest tractor tire repair is 30 miles way. I guess I need to get it there. Once I do, what are my options? I really like having the ballast because I use it for mostly loader work and my property is fairly hilly. My understanding is no one uses calcium chloride and water anymore. In a search I saw beet juice mentioned, but it's apparently crazy expensive.
 
Calcium chloride is still used. Many people do not like it because of the rim rusting issue. The true fact is that most of the rusting damage is caused by not fixing the leak asap. Having to add air to a loaded tire (tube or tubeless) is a good indicator there is likely a leak. Wet around the stem confirms it. Calcium mix and oxygen will accelerate rusting.

Check with the shop you are taking it to. They should be set up to pump your tire out, save the fluid and put it back in, adding some to top it off if needed. We use calcium mix and adding air regularly or wet around the stem (other than a bad Shrader valve or core housing) and it goes to the shop for repair.
 
It will be cheaper, if you're up to it, is to remove the calcium yourself. Then just let them fix it with no calcium.

They are probably going to bring a new tube ($100) so you won't have to suck it completely dry. You can just slit the bottom of the tube and drain it into your container after the serviceman is gone.

To get the calcium out, all you need is a drill pump, maybe 10-15 ft. of 1/2" fuel line and a 55 gallon drum. Position the valve at 12 o'clock and remove the air-water valve and let the air out. Then jam the hose onto the inner tube and rotate the valve to the 6 o'clock and let the calcium flow into your container. When it stops, hook up your drill pump and suck it the rest of the way out. When the calcium is down to the level of the valve, lower the tractor onto the rim and this will push the last of the calcium up to the valve hole.

To put it back in, just turn the valve to the 12 o'clock position and fill the tire with your drill pump. The air needs to be let out periodically, stop pumping and pull the hose off the inner tube and let the air out. Then resume filling the tire. You may have to do this 3-4 times, depending on how much fluid you are putting in the tire.

Before the service man leaves, make sure the tire is fully inflated and beads fully seated. If the tire is just barely hanging on the beads, the weight of the fluid will pull the beads down into the well and then you will have to start all over. Also, let the tire just touch the ground while filling for added insurance.
 
I just figured out that it's not leaking. It's very heavy condensation from a cold tire/fluid and a sudden blast of hot, humid air. It's going to thunderstorm tonight. By chance, it's parked with the valve stem at the bottom so it looked like it was leaking, but it's not. I even tasted it and it's not salty. (And no, a dog didn't pee on it.)
 
I just figured out that it's not leaking. It's very heavy condensation from a cold tire/fluid and a sudden blast of hot, humid air. It's going to thunderstorm tonight. By chance, it's parked with the valve stem at the bottom so it looked like it was leaking, but it's not. I even tasted it and it's not salty. (And no, a dog didn't pee on it.)
Your lucky day, in more than one way. ;)
 
I've got a John Deere 4020 tractor with filled tires, 18.3 x 34 so big. One just started leaking a small amount around the valve stem. (It's not a valve core problem.) I think the rim is still useably solid.

There's no way I could take it off and lift it; this is my only tractor? The nearest tractor tire repair is 30 miles way. I guess I need to get it there. Once I do, what are my options? I really like having the ballast because I use it for mostly loader work and my property is fairly hilly. My understanding is no one uses calcium chloride and water anymore. In a search I saw beet juice mentioned, but it's apparently crazy expensive.
I just figured out that it's not leaking. It's very heavy condensation from a cold tire/fluid and a sudden blast of hot, humid air. It's going to thunderstorm tonight. By chance, it's parked with the valve stem at the bottom so it looked like it was leaking, but it's not. I even tasted it and it's not salty. (And no, a dog didn't pee on it.)
You got lucky!

On a side note, Just a Few Acres Farm on Youtube put windshield washer fluid in one of his tractor tires.
 
I hate wet ballast, in general, with a passion. I hate calcium chloride more. No matter what, it's going to leak and if it leaks slowly you may not notice it for months or years, and- then you have a rusted out rim or valve stem hole. I have changed over to anti-freeze in a couple tractors that need ballast or retain wheel weights in a tractor if it came to me that way.
 
It is likely the rim is in poorer condition then it appears if it’s starting to be visible. You can use the calcium chloride as ice melt if you live in a cold region. you just need to find some pails.

My father hates it. I have mixed feelings I don’t have the cash to justify beet juice. I could buy 3 sets of rims for a 4020 for what they want.

I have heard more people going back to it and with things becoming tighter on most farms it is the cheapest option by quite a bit.

The rims lasted 40 years with them in. And made a usable tractor out of quite a few that otherwise would struggle.

I suppose it’s time to purchase a new rim

I’m not sure what the long term effects of windshield washer fluid and some of the other things people have been putting in but beings they are methanol it’s probably slightly better but people who use a lot of windshield washer fluid still corrode the roof of their car so I haven’t gone and bought a drum of that I’d probably stick with the calcium.

You will be surprised how light a tire is without or a rim.
 
I've had two 55 gal drums of CaCl sitting behind my garage for several years. Was reluctant to use it because of the rust issue.
And I've been watching for cast iron weights and considering other options that whole time.
Meanwhile, my tractor has been too light in the loafers, less efficient and less safe.
So I'm gonna take the plunge and use the calcium. this spring. I know the signs of leakage and won't ignore them.
Edit:
By the way, I don't plan to use a pump.
I have the little fill valve here and will lift the barrels up in the air with the loader and let gravity do its thing.
 

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I've had two 55 gal drums of CaCl sitting behind my garage for several years. Was reluctant to use it because of the rust issue.
And I've been watching for cast iron weights and considering other options that whole time.
Meanwhile, my tractor has been too light in the loafers, less efficient and less safe.
So I'm gonna take the plunge and use the calcium. this spring. I know the signs of leakage and won't ignore them.
Edit:
By the way, I don't plan to use a pump.
I have the little fill valve here and will lift the barrels up in the air with the loader and let gravity do its thing.
Yes, with that adapter, even without another tractor with a loader, you need to pump only the last 10%.
 
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