Oil "Full" mark

[New to Blue]

1792 Ford 4110.
Excuse my ignorance but which mark is actually full on the dipstick.
I have the operators manual and the IT manual but everything says to the "full" mark.
Well to me there are 3 "marks" on my dipstick.
I've attached a picture of my dipstick and labeled the marks
At #1 and below I would consider critically low if not already having problems.
At #2 is ok but below I would consider oil needed.
At #3 I would consider completely full
Thus optimal operating range would be between mark #2 and #3.
This tractor is new to me and the poor girl seems to be burning oil at a rate I've never seen from an engine that wasn't actual just billowing BLUE smoke, talking 1 - 2 maybe even 3 QTs in the 3ish hours I've put on it just trying to tune it up and get thing right on it.
Zero obvious leaks, like after I've run it and got it up to temp i park in my garage and there is 2 or 3 drips on the floor the next morning.
Thanks for your input!

 

[Sean in PA]

Full is anywhere between the lines on either side of where it says Full. I would check it both cold and hot to see how much variance there is. It should be between those two marks regardless of the temperature. If you fill it to the right most mark in your picture (#3) when it is cold, it might be overfull when it is hot. Give it 5 minutes after shutting off the engine when hot before you check it to allow for the oil that was circulating in the engine to drain back into the oil pan.

 

[New to Blue]

Full is anywhere between the lines on either side of where it says Full. I would check it both cold and hot to see how much variance there is. It should be between those two marks regardless of the temperature. If you fill it to the right most mark in your picture (#3) when it is cold, it might be overfull when it is hot. Give it 5 minutes after shutting off the engine when hot before you check it to allow for the oil that was circulating in the engine to drain back into the oil pan.

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain your thoughts on this.
It's what I was thinking so I will operate accordingly.

 

[joeysmith]

Have you changed the oil an put in the correct amount for your engine per the book?
No telling if someone might have replaced the dip stick in the past
You may be over filling it which can cause high oil consumption

 

[New to Blue]

Have you changed the oil an put in the correct amount for your engine per the book?
No telling if someone might have replaced the dip stick in the past
You may be over filling it which can cause high oil consumption

I have not done a by the book oil change yet, it is on my list of things to try.
This tractor has the cast iron pan, does anyone know if the book oil quantities are still the same between the stamped and cast pans?
thanks

 

[Fordfarmer]

I have not done a by the book oil change yet, it is on my list of things to try.
This tractor has the cast iron pan, does anyone know if the book oil quantities are still the same between the stamped and cast pans?
thanks

Yes, oil capacity is the same for cast or stamped pans.
The only change in capacity I'm aware of is cartridge vs. spin -on filters. 3 cylinder models take 7 quarts with the spin-on, 8 with the cartridge.

 

[tldnc]

1792 Ford 4110.
Excuse my ignorance but which mark is actually full on the dipstick.
I have the operators manual and the IT manual but everything says to the "full" mark.
Well to me there are 3 "marks" on my dipstick.
I've attached a picture of my dipstick and labeled the marks
At #1 and below I would consider critically low if not already having problems.
At #2 is ok but below I would consider oil needed.
At #3 I would consider completely full
Thus optimal operating range would be between mark #2 and #3.
This tractor is new to me and the poor girl seems to be burning oil at a rate I've never seen from an engine that wasn't actual just billowing BLUE smoke, talking 1 - 2 maybe even 3 QTs in the 3ish hours I've put on it just trying to tune it up and get thing right on it.
Zero obvious leaks, like after I've run it and got it up to temp i park in my garage and there is 2 or 3 drips on the floor the next morning.
Thanks for your input!View attachment 147563

Could it be that the #2 mark is the full mark and what you are calling the #3 mark is actually where the machining of the flat spot on the dipstick stops? Not familiar with Ford tractors so just wondering.

 

[Eman85]

Burning 1-3 qts in a few hours work, the mark on the dipstick is waaaay down on the list of priorities. I'd be doing a dry and wet compression test.

 

[Fordfarmer]

Could it be that the #2 mark is the full mark and what you are calling the #3 mark is actually where the machining of the flat spot on the dipstick stops? Not familiar with Ford tractors so just wondering.

Dipstick is stamped, not machined.

 

[New to Blue]

Burning 1-3 qts in a few hours work, the mark on the dipstick is waaaay down on the list of priorities. I'd be doing a dry and wet compression test.

I was starting very simply to make sure I wasn't doing something really dumb, ie: over filling to the wrong mark.
Compression test is on my to-do list, I "feel" like it must have decent compression because it starts right up even in chilly weather and has what I would call reasonable blow-by.
Talked with my father-in-law who's a motor guy also suggested valve seal can cause excessive oil consumption.
Soo after a by the book oil change I'll get my hands on a compression tester and see where that leads me... probably straight to a next winter project lol.
thanks y'all!

 

[Texasmark]

Have you changed the oil an put in the correct amount for your engine per the book?
No telling if someone might have replaced the dip stick in the past
You may be over filling it which can cause high oil consumption

If you change the filter too....which I always do, fill it to full, can the engine and run it for a minute or so, shut it off, wait 5 minutes and check it again. Some manuals specify the oil requirement and stipulate what to do if the filter is changed too.....on big filters could be most of a quart additional required.

Or fill the filter before you install it, give it time to absorb and top it off, then install.....fast...grin. That is what I do (never install a dry filter in anything of the sort) and seldom have to add oil to the crankcase after the run-in.