1952 8N WON,T TAKE THROTTLE

[Dudleydoright#49]

I HAVE A TRACTOR THAT IS IN VERY GOOD SHAPE, RECENT OVERHAUL, NEW CARB DISTRIBUTOR PLUGS ETC. I HAVE TRIED ABOUT EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF. FRESHENED UP THE GOVERNOR ADJUSTED AS BEST AS I CAN. IT STARTS FINE, IDLES GREAT BUT ADVANCE THE THROTTLE FOR MORE THAN 1100 RPM AND IT DIES LIKE YOU SHOT IT WITH A .45. SOMETIMES I CAN KEEP IT GOING A BIT WITH THE CHOKE AND RETATD THE THROTTLE LEVER. I AM AT WITS END

 

[HCooke]

I am not a fan of "new" carbs. Either rebuild you old one ore have someone else do it.

 

[Dudleydoright#49]

I am not a fan of "new" carbs. Either rebuild you old one ore have someone else do it.

I DO NOT HAVE THE ORIGINAL CAST IRON CARB. I COULD BUY ONE ON AMAZON. DO YOU THINK THAT IT THE WAY TO GO?

 

[soaked]

Hi Dudly,
Welcome Aboard!
6 or 12 volts?

Got an old condenser to try, new ones can run like yours.

Have you put a timing light on it to see if the new dist is advancing as it should?

Got a pint of gas flow out the new carb drain in 2 minutes?

 

[TJ64]

I HAVE A TRACTOR THAT IS IN VERY GOOD SHAPE, RECENT OVERHAUL, NEW CARB DISTRIBUTOR PLUGS ETC. I HAVE TRIED ABOUT EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF. FRESHENED UP THE GOVERNOR ADJUSTED AS BEST AS I CAN. IT STARTS FINE, IDLES GREAT BUT ADVANCE THE THROTTLE FOR MORE THAN 1100 RPM AND IT DIES LIKE YOU SHOT IT WITH A .45. SOMETIMES I CAN KEEP IT GOING A BIT WITH THE CHOKE AND RETATD THE THROTTLE LEVER. I AM AT WITS END

I'm with soaked. There are I think 3 other current threads with the same issue. Mine was doing the same thing as you describe (new carb, new governor etc.) I thought it was silly, but I changed the condenser again anyway....presto!

 

[Dudleydoright#49]

Hi Dudly,
Welcome Aboard!
6 or 12 volts?

Got an old condenser to try, new ones can run like yours.

Have you put a timing light on it to see if the new dist is advancing as it should?
View attachment 147720

Got a pint of gas flow out the new carb drain in 2 minutes?

Yes I have . My light is a simple one, no advance dial. I can't read the markings on the flywheel but it advances about a quarter inch before it dies. The Distributor is new as the original was pretty worn, the strobe light wandered a lot. It is @TDC plus or minus 1 deg static., I cannot tell how much it advances, but it does advance. I replaced the manifold (leaking} so I checked & adjusted the valves at that time. Spot on. The governor seems to work, I have way more experience with diesel engine governors, even DDA, Cat, Cummins etc. With it off the engine spinning the gear pushes the lever toward low idle. Cannot achieve high idlle.

 

[Dudleydoright#49]

Hi Dudly,
Welcome Aboard!
6 or 12 volts?

Got an old condenser to try, new ones can run like yours.

Have you put a timing light on it to see if the new dist is advancing as it should?
View attachment 147720

Got a pint of gas flow out the new carb drain in 2 minutes?

12 volts, never checked the volume of gas. Cleaned the tank, installed a new sediment bowl/

I'm with soaked. There are I think 3 other current threads with the same issue. Mine was doing the same thing as you describe (new carb, new governor etc.) I thought it was silly, but I changed the condenser again anyway....presto!

I am working a school board election tomorrow. probably won't get back to it until Thursday.

 

[Btzj02]

There are many entries in this forum that address issues that others have had with these "new" carbs. Some needed a new main seat and needle valve and others needed an additional hole drilled inside the casting. If you have the time do some searches, see if you can come up with those old threads. With that said I have always used the M&S heavy cast carburetors. The first one I used was a rebuilt carburetor I purchased from this site. I sent back the core I had. The second I rebuilt myself and the third was so damaged that I bought a brand new M&S carburetor that was not cheap but the project was important enough to me to do it. Note that the rebuilt carburetor I purchased had a poorly soldered float so eventually after much trouble shooting I had to replace the float. All has been good with all three since then.

 

[soaked]

If advancing from factory specs, from 4° it should be ~ 8° or so. Maybe higher.( if actually about 1100 rpm)
8n sidemount flywheel has two sets of stamped timing marks, 180 degrees apart. 1, and 4 appear on one set of stamping, while 2 and 3 appear on the other set.
Here is a screenshot with fun info from an old post

 

[Jim L WA]

Dudley, before chasing your tail, do the fuel flow test through the carburetor by removing the drain bolt at the bottom and see if it will fill a pint jar in about two minutes. It sounds to me, like it's starving for gas at the higher throttle setting. A timing problem doesn't shut the engine down like that. Let us know the results.

 

[Eman85]

As Jim posted do the fuel flow test, unless you do that it's all a guess.
You asked if it's worth buying an original style carb, my answer would be yes as long as it's a good rebuildable core at the least. The tractors with original carburetors just keep on running and maybe need a cleaning after 20-30 years.

 

[Dudleydoright#49]

I ran the fuel test and got 1 pint of fuel in 1 minute 39 seconds. is the tank supposed to be pressurized from heat? We live in the dryest part of Oklahoma so I vented the fuel cap. I didn't like the gasoline spray when taking the cap off. i was standing in calf high grass and it scared the h out of me.

 

[Non-farmer]

I ran the fuel test and got 1 pint of fuel in 1 minute 39 seconds. is the tank supposed to be pressurized from heat? We live in the dryest part of Oklahoma so I vented the fuel cap. I didn't like the gasoline spray when taking the cap off. i was standing in calf high grass and it scared the h out of me.

Good decision on the gas cap. No, the tank should not pressurize. It has a vent but it often plugs through the years and is in an awkward location, on top of the tank under the hood. No worries, venting the cap is a good alternative to trying to clean the existing vent.

 

[Dudleydoright#49]

I would like to extend my heart-felt gratitude to all you tractor men who offered good advice. A bought a "as close to original" as possible cast iron carburetor. installed it, started her up and it runs like a champ, 1800 RPM easily. Thank you again from the bottom of my heart and of there are any females in the thread please accept my apologies.

 

[soaked]

Hi Dudley,
Can I join you in acknowledgement for those advising carb issue?
Good call

It may help someone in the future, and perhaps your clone carb may be repairable, if you were to take the top half off and check the economize jet. Im wondering if it even has one.
In this Pic, the .046, and the .052 size jets run great. The .076 creates too much back suction, resulting in a lean, surging, hesitation condition, but not stalling. Will run ok with choke. The other drill is identifying the econo jet location, down in the hole.

Maybe if no jet at all it pulls too lean to even run?
Here is back suction economize system on tsx carbs.

 

[Duner Wi]

For those of you with points and battery ignition ,you can tell something from the sound and color of the spark when you trip the points. Popsicle stick or equivalent works fine for tripping the points.