New to me MF150

[ford4wd08]

Was browsing marketplace and found a guy who list a few MF's from time to time for sale. Says he likes to tinker on them.

He has a MF150 listed that was the 4 hi/lo transmission and a 2 stage clutch for sale. Has the 3 cylinder Perkins diesel. No multi power or remotes. Best I could find it's a pretty bullet proof setup for the 150.

So, I went down and checked it out after work today. Seemed pretty decent, had a new alternator on it, a few new gauges, and it looks like he mounted a new/used fuel tank, or at least the rubber mounts were new. Checked all gears and the 3 point and PTO seemed to function fine. No blowby I could find on the engine and no major leaks at all.

Only issue I found was the power steering didn't seem to work. From what I can tell this is a power assist system with its own dedicated pump. All the parts appeared to be there, but their is either air in the system or something else going on. I noticed later the pump was a slight different color than the rest of the engine so it was likely swapped out for a used one when he worked on it.

So I used to power steering to negotiate and the MF150 followed me home tonight.

Plans are to basically use it to bushhog all the time and maybe rake a little hay.

Any tips on where to start on the power steering for troubleshooting?

Never owned a Massey, but they're very popular in my area. Local dealer is less than 5 miles from me.

Ended up giving $3,300 for it, so I feel like I did ok being a diesel and all.

 

[kevin110]

Hi, looks like a good deal on such a great tractor. I have a 1970 MF30 industrial since 2008. I ended up rebuilding my hydraulic steering cylinder. The a few short years later I put a new power steering pump sourced from Massey Ferguson. Works like new.
kevin110

 

[ford4wd08]

From what little research I've done, there is some adjustment on the linkage that has to be correct for it to work properly.

I'll make sure I have fluid getting to the cylinder and that the pump is working to start, then I can dig into the linkage.

 

[miangus]

I think the 150 has a similar power steering system to the 65s. Make sure someone hasn't run the tapered bolt all the way down, it's used to align the steering arm. The steering system needs play to run the valve on the front steering cylinder. Check the pins in the turnbuckle used to adjust the valve.

 

[ford4wd08]

Ok, did a few minutes of troubleshooting tonight.

I unhooked the linkage from the valve and I was able to trip the valve all the way left and right, so I know I have pressure and the cylinder is working.

Quick video:

Looks like my issue is the linkage. I'm not sure if this is all stock parts or not, but here is a picture of the turnbuckle. (I loosened the lock nuts). I noticed the turnbuckle has right handed threads on both side so it doesn't really do anything unless you pull it out and spin the ends with holes for the pins in them.

I just bought the owners and shop manual online as PDF's so I'll look through them tonight for adjustment.

I did notice that when you try to steer, the cylinder valve doesn't trip and the whole linkage back to the steering column in the dash get in a bind. It actually flexes the dash slightly and you can see it move where it appears to connect to the back of the engine block. It effects the throttle as well and changed the engine speed. I don't know if the steering has been out of adjustment that long and it has made this part of the dash weak or it is missing parts. I'll see if I can find a part diagram and see what I'm working with. I can stiffen it up if need be some how.

Made a couple videos of what is moving when you turn the steering wheel as well. Of course this is without the tractor running and worst case scenario.

Can anyone tell me what bolts are there to secure that? I pulled out the nuts on either side and they were connected to a stud. I pulled them out and added washers to see if it would tighten it up, but I don't believe it is the part that needs to be bolted down securely.

 

[Jim.ME]

Looking at the parts book that is a filler plate between the back of the engine block and steering box. It looks like there are two socket head cap screws that hold that spacer plate. The cap screws are recessed into the plate, so the heads do not stick out. It would look like the steering box has to be moved out of the wat to access them. Or the engine has to be moved forward (split the tractor), to access the cap screws. I hope I'm wrong but that is what it looks like to me.

 

[ford4wd08]

Looking at the parts book that is a filler plate between the back of the engine block and steering box. It looks like there are two socket head cap screws that hold that spacer plate. The cap screws are recessed into the plate, so the heads do not stick out. It would look like the steering box has to be moved out of the wat to access them. Or the engine has to be moved forward (split the tractor), to access the cap screws. I hope I'm wrong but that is what it looks like to me.

I thought I could see what looked like a socket head cap screw in there after I removed the studs.

I'm guessing they are loose. I can pull the steering box, doesn't seem to be too bad of a job.

I can install new screws and use some blue loctite to keep them tight.

Do you have a physical copy of the parts book, or are you veiwing it online?

Edit - I found the parts book online.

I see what you are talking about in this screen shot.

 

[ford4wd08]

I believe the turn buckle appears to be stock as well.

 

[Jim.ME]

I thought I could see what looked like a socket head cap screw in there after I removed the studs.

I'm guessing they are loose. I can pull the steering box, doesn't seem to be too bad of a job.

I can install new screws and use some blue loctite to keep them tight.

Do you have a physical copy of the parts book, or are you veiwing it online?

Edit - I found the parts book online.

I see what you are talking about in this screen shot.

I use the online parts books. Yes, # 39 is the filler plate, the parts book calls it Bracket, Steering gear. I expect they are loose or broken.

 

[JLMac]

Make sure your steering box is full of oil.

 

[miangus]

The mechanical portion of the steering systems needs to move the valve before it physically tries to turn the wheels. It still sounds like the alignment bolt may be turned in locking the system and preventing vale movement. When adjusting I set the wheels straight, tighten the tapered alignment bolt, adjust the turnbuckle so it's in the center and then loosen the alignment bolt. Sometimes the steering has to feel a little Sloopy to get enough valve movement, so you have power steering.

 

[ford4wd08]

The mechanical portion of the steering systems needs to move the valve before it physically tries to turn the wheels. It still sounds like the alignment bolt may be turned in locking the system and preventing vale movement. When adjusting I set the wheels straight, tighten the tapered alignment bolt, adjust the turnbuckle so it's in the center and then loosen the alignment bolt. Sometimes the steering has to feel a little Sloopy to get enough valve movement, so you have power steering.

I will look into this.

I do think the steering gear bracket has more movement that it should, but it could be because the rest of the linkage is too tight.

I do think the tapered alignment bolt may be too tight as I don't really get any movement when I turn the steering wheel. It just pushed back through the linkage. I will make some adjustments tonight and see what it does.

I did realize after reading and watching a couple of videos that the turnbuckle has different thread pitches on each side of it. For coarse and finner adjustment.

 

[Jim.ME]

You need to get the steering box anchored. With the movement it has shown in the video, it is going to throw any adjustments you make off. JMHO

 

[Eric in IL]

I think your turnbuckle is standard equipment and has not been tampered with. As you have found, both ends being right hand threads with different pitches is going to produce a very fine adjustment.

The adjusting bolt with the taper on the end is supposed to be backed out 7 turns from the fully seated position on a model 65. The 150 is likely the same. If you desire easier power steering, you can back it out UP TO 12 turns.

If you run into a situation where you only get power steering in one direction you must address slop in the pins at each end of the turnbuckle. They need to be good fitting with minimal slop.

The looseness at the steering gear should not affect the adjustments up front. It does need addressed though or it will just keep getting more worn.

 

[ford4wd08]

You need to get the steering box anchored. With the movement it has shown in the video, it is going to throw any adjustments you make off. JMHO

My goal is to address it this weekend, I looked again today with a good flashlight and you can see bolt head of the bracket behind the studs that go to the steering gear mount. So, it appears no splitting necessary, just removal of the steering gear.

 

[ford4wd08]

I think your turnbuckle is standard equipment and has not been tampered with. As you have found, both ends being right hand threads with different pitches is going to produce a very fine adjustment.

The adjusting bolt with the taper on the end is supposed to be backed out 7 turns from the fully seated position on a model 65. The 150 is likely the same. If you desire easier power steering, you can back it out UP TO 12 turns.

If you run into a situation where you only get power steering in one direction you must address slop in the pins at each end of the turnbuckle. They need to be good fitting with minimal slop.

The looseness at the steering gear should not affect the adjustments up front. It does need addressed though or it will just keep getting more worn.

Thanks for the info, I sort of discovered some of that on my own today messing with the adjusting bolt, it is almost bottomed out and seemed to be part of the problem. I have the shop manual and it says the same 7 turns - max 9, but I'll try 12 if need be.

There doesn't appear to be any slop that I can tell in the pins on the turnbuckle, but I will confirm they are good. I know the one on the linkage side is good, I haven't removed the one hydraulic valve side yet to look.

The steering gear will be fixed this weekend as it seems it can lead to a lot worse of problems.

 

[ford4wd08]

The clutch is another issue I will have to play with.

It works in both stages and feels ok, but the pedal is very high. I'll look over the adjustment procedure and see if I can make it better as well. Seems like a fine line between only the first stage working and having both stages working with the pedal stroke. The clutch could be near end of life, but appears to be working ok, and no grinding of transmission gears or the PTO when it is fully engaged.

 

[Jim.ME]

I think the arm on the shaft that operates the throw out bearing on your 150 may have 2-holes in it the pedal link can pin into. If I remember right the 135/150 pedal will be high when in the upper pin hole to operate both stages. If you are not going to be using the PTO, you can pin it to the lower hole to lower the pedal and operate just the traction (transmission) clutch. Having a high pedal was one of the complaints some had about these.

 

[Eric in IL]

The two clutches being set close together should yield the lowest possible clutch pedal. If you adjust them further apart the pedal will get higher yet. That adjustment is possible through the inspection cover, but it is better and easier to do it with the tractor split apart.

Don't forget you can lower the pedal with the position of the pin in the linkage if you are not using the second stage.

 

[ford4wd08]

I think the arm on the shaft that operates the throw out bearing on your 150 may have 2-holes in it the pedal link can pin into. If I remember right the 135/150 pedal will be high when in the upper pin hole to operate both stages. If you are not going to be using the PTO, you can pin it to the lower hole to lower the pedal and operate just the traction (transmission) clutch. Having a high pedal was one of the complaints some had about these.

It will have a bushhog on it the majority of the time, I'll need both stages of the clutch unfortunately.

It's not a deal breaker, but I'll see if I can make it any better.