I have a 15 hp Kawasaki twin cylinder motor recoil start on a 48 inch walk behind Bunton mower. The mower runs well. However, it has a starting issue. I can pull the recoil many times and it will not start. One shot of starting fluid and it will run well. When I shut it off hot it will not start. Starting fluid and it starts and runs well again. Any thoughts on what to look for??? It almost surely has to be a carburetor issue, right? Thanks, Ellis
 
I have a 15 hp Kawasaki twin cylinder motor recoil start on a 48 inch walk behind Bunton mower. The mower runs well. However, it has a starting issue. I can pull the recoil many times and it will not start. One shot of starting fluid and it will run well. When I shut it off hot it will not start. Starting fluid and it starts and runs well again. Any thoughts on what to look for??? It almost surely has to be a carburetor issue, right? Thanks, Ellis
You might check compression. A lot of people don’t realize Kawasaki’s need the valves checked and adjusted every 300-400 hours
 
I have a 15 hp Kawasaki twin cylinder motor recoil start on a 48 inch walk behind Bunton mower. The mower runs well. However, it has a starting issue. I can pull the recoil many times and it will not start. One shot of starting fluid and it will run well. When I shut it off hot it will not start. Starting fluid and it starts and runs well again. Any thoughts on what to look for??? It almost surely has to be a carburetor issue, right? Thanks, Ellis
Take the fuel line off before the carburetor and double-check the fuel pump is pumping good.
I would definitely check the idle circuits, choke operation, and the throttle shaft bushings.
 
A lot of good suggestions here, and if you don't want to ter into the carb yourself try some Seafoam, it can sometimes work wonders. But first check the valve clearance and make sure the choke is working properly.
 
Tight exhaust valves make hard starting cold and very hard starting when warm. Seen it many times. Also i have experienced Ethonol makes them start hard when warm. I would lean towards the valves.
 
I had same problem. It was a weak coil. Changed coil no more starting problems. Would not fire on gas but ether fires quicker.
Yeah I’ve seen that too, had to change a coil on the famed Kohler courage just the other day for hard starting and intermittent spark. With Kawasaki I check the valves first cause it’s something that’s overlooked a lot
 
Thanks for all the tips. I don't suspect the valves, I adjusted them last fall. It was purchased in 2010 and has always had premium gas and amsoil.
I will try the suggestions this weekend and report back in a couple of days. Thanks, Ellis
It’s probably not your starting problem but premium gas might be over kill. If it doesn’t call for premium in the manual try regular gas. 87 has a higher combustion rating. 93 is used in cars with high compression engines to stop pre combustion (knocking).
 
While I'm not an expert, it sounds exactly like valve-related compression symptoms to me. Especially the 'hard starting when warm" aspect. Worth checking clearances again to make sure nothing's changed. But it could also be a valve sticking in the guide (exhaust valve sticking due to carbon build-up on the stem isn't all that uncommon on some engines) or very slightly bent valve-stems causing a smidge of binding.

I also second the vacuum hose check Jaden mentions if you have that type of pump. Common issue on small engines with that style of fuel pump. When the hoses develop some small cracks or suck air from a loose connection, they sometimes don't have the gusto to push fuel at low cranking RPM, but are able to push enough fuel when running.
 
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