Would like some help picking a Ford 4000 or talk me into another model.

[TheBrokenFarmer]

I’ve been battling my Deere 2010 for a couple years and it’s just done. The engine and transmission are independently shot and the hydraulics are completely non functional. I want another machine. Top of my list is a Ford 4600 diesel due to it being the size I like and appearing to have good aftermarket parts availability (one of my complaints about the 2010).

I want to use it for mowing with my 72” brush hog, brush hogging, running a loader, and running an auger. I have a green loader that I think is about the right size but I’m not sure if it would fit. I think it would have fit the 2010 but I never tried due to the terrible hydraulics.

Is this the right tractor to look for? I’m thinking if I could avoid the SOS, and make sure the PS and hydraulics all work well I should be able to run it for a long time.

Appreciate the help. I live in Cuba, MO.

 

[centash]

Ford 4000 or 4600, MF 165 or a JD 1120 are about the same size and your best bet in the used tractor market. Can't go wrong with a good one of any of these.

Ben

 

[RCP]

I would want to make sure that the tractor I buy has independent PTO.

 

[Welding man]

A 4600 Ford is one of the most sought after tractors in my area. I had a very nice one that I had restored. I sold it a couple of years ago and I totally regret it. I got $13,000 for it and I sold it too cheap. I sold it to a man that his barn burned and he lost 2 tractors and all his hay and he needed a tractor bad.

 

[Fred Werring]

I would want to make sure that the tractor I buy has independent PTO.

I like my '69 4000, but the independent pto clutch plates are warped (I believe) and the pto never completely shuts off.
It's not too bad in the summer when you get less fluid drag, it's fairly easily stopped.
But its keeps right on chugging when it's cold.

Seems to be a fairly common problem on the late 4000's, don't know about the 4600...is it the same?

 

[showcrop]

I assume you are posting about the three cylinder 4000. They also made the four cylinder model.

 

[NDIHC]

If I had my choice it would be an IH 544. But then I am partial to IH! Fords other than the Ns are rare in my neighborhood.

 

[Texasmark]

Ford 4000 or 4600, MF 165 or a JD 1120 are about the same size and your best bet in the used tractor market. Can't go wrong with a good one of any of these.

Ben

On the 4000 or 4600, I have a 3000 and a 3600. 3600 is just a later version of the 3000. It's a no brainer which one I like better. If it works out for you, and the 4600 is like my 3600....which is probably is, just a higher HP with same attributes, the creature comforts are excellent whereas the 3000 leaves numerous things lacking.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Sounds likeI’ve found the right model to go with. This one is at the top of my budget but it’s probably obtainable.

1980 Ford 4600

1980 Ford 4600 Ford 4600 with koyker loader (loader is newer model than the tractor) ….tires are 80% 2 remote plugs tractor is a nice lil machine

www.facebook.com

The rest I see are $5k-$6.5k but are listed as special utility models. My understanding is that they have a lighter duty front axle. This doesn’t seem like a terrible negative but probably should be avoided for loader use?

My loader needs are basically moving large bales of hay around and filling in pot holes with gravel. Just knowing the type of person I am, I won’t use it every week but I will probably be stupid and put more in it than I should at least a few times till I learn.

 

[Destroked 450]

I’ve owned my late 68 4000 all purpose since 1992 and my 72 4000SU since 2005
SU models are more compact using the sweep back axle design of the 3000 model, in my opinion this axle design is less than ideal for loader use
Ford made a number of changes to the 4000 model in mid 68, a different cylinder head and cam increasing hp from 47 to 52 pto hp, longer shift levers made gear changes easier. For these reasons along I’d steer away from the early vent hood models
The assister ram power steering on the 65-early 70 models worked but I’d prefer the integral power steering of the later 70 to 75 model

All this said about the 4000 if I were looking to purchase a tractor this size today I’d look for a 4600 model, higher flow hydraulic pump increases loader speed, paper air filter verses older oil bath air cleaner, stronger front spindles, modern flat top fenders make this model more desirable I’m my opinion

 

[Destroked 450]

I don’t know much about that brand of loader but being quick attach is a plus, it does not appear to have quick attach bucket system
Tractor appears to be good but that hydraulic valve mounted to a wood 2x6 bolted to the wrong fenders is a mess

 

[SkipperII]

The thousand series Fords are very reliable, and parts available. If you want quick change for your loader attachments, the skid steer type adapters are reasonable on Ebay, as well as the accessory plates. I have converted several. The one in the clip looks to be a nice unit.

 

[Steven Allen]

Appreciate the help. I live in Cuba, MO.

Howdy, neighbor!

I don't know of any, but I'll keep my eye out.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Howdy, neighbor!

I don't know of any, but I'll keep my eye out.

Where are you at

 

[Steven Allen]

See my signature
'Twixt St. James and Rolla, MO

 

[Ultradog MN]

Sounds likeI’ve found the right model to go with. This one is at the top of my budget but it’s probably obtainable.

1980 Ford 4600

1980 Ford 4600 Ford 4600 with koyker loader (loader is newer model than the tractor) ….tires are 80% 2 remote plugs tractor is a nice lil machine

www.facebook.com

The rest I see are $5k-$6.5k but are listed as special utility models. My understanding is that they have a lighter duty front axle. This doesn’t seem like a terrible negative but probably should be avoided for loader use?

My loader needs are basically moving large bales of hay around and filling in pot holes with gravel. Just knowing the type of person I am, I won’t use it every week but I will probably be stupid and put more in it than I should at least a few times till I learn.

That

Sounds likeI’ve found the right model to go with. This one is at the top of my budget but it’s probably obtainable.

1980 Ford 4600

1980 Ford 4600 Ford 4600 with koyker loader (loader is newer model than the tractor) ….tires are 80% 2 remote plugs tractor is a nice lil machine

www.facebook.com

The rest I see are $5k-$6.5k but are listed as special utility models. My understanding is that they have a lighter duty front axle. This doesn’t seem like a terrible negative but probably should be avoided for loader use?

My loader needs are basically moving large bales of hay around and filling in pot holes with gravel. Just knowing the type of person I am, I won’t use it every week but I will probably be stupid and put more in it than I should at least a few times till I learn.

The facebook tractor you linked to is Not overpriced.
My older pal Kenny sold a very nice 4600 with nearly new rubber, fresh engine and paint for $7200 3 years ago and it did not have a loader.
I have two Fords in the 4000/4600 series.
My mowing tractor is actually a heavily modified 1974 4000 underneath the yellow paint and industrial nose and front end that I put under it.
My loader tractor is a 1983 545 Industrial which is identical to the 4600 platform.
They are both rugged, reliable, not complicated and parts are readily available.
I've had a bunch of Fords in the last 25 years and ran 3000/3600s for much of that time.
They are great tractors as well but they are a much lighter platform than the 4000/4600.
Too light to move round bales IMO and the brakes are "just adequate" compared to their 4xxx sisters that have great brakes
I think this is the first time I've posted photos of "The Twins" here.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I am partial to the 4610's or 4630's. Newer versions, very reliable powertrains. Mark.

 

[nh8260]

I’ve been battling my Deere 2010 for a couple years and it’s just done. The engine and transmission are independently shot and the hydraulics are completely non functional. I want another machine. Top of my list is a Ford 4600 diesel due to it being the size I like and appearing to have good aftermarket parts availability (one of my complaints about the 2010).

I want to use it for mowing with my 72” brush hog, brush hogging, running a loader, and running an auger. I have a green loader that I think is about the right size but I’m not sure if it would fit. I think it would have fit the 2010 but I never tried due to the terrible hydraulics.

Is this the right tractor to look for? I’m thinking if I could avoid the SOS, and make sure the PS and hydraulics all work well I should be able to run it for a long time.

Appreciate the help. I live in Cuba, MO.

4610 is a good tractor, newer than the 4000 and very well built.

 

[Welding man]

4610's are good tractors but they do have engine problems. Cavitation in the blocks and the tops popping off the Headland pistons. I have rebored and sleeved the blocks and replaced the pistons in my share of those.

 

[Texasmark]

Sounds likeI’ve found the right model to go with. This one is at the top of my budget but it’s probably obtainable.

1980 Ford 4600

1980 Ford 4600 Ford 4600 with koyker loader (loader is newer model than the tractor) ….tires are 80% 2 remote plugs tractor is a nice lil machine

www.facebook.com

The rest I see are $5k-$6.5k but are listed as special utility models. My understanding is that they have a lighter duty front axle. This doesn’t seem like a terrible negative but probably should be avoided for loader use?

My loader needs are basically moving large bales of hay around and filling in pot holes with gravel. Just knowing the type of person I am, I won’t use it every week but I will probably be stupid and put more in it than I should at least a few times till I learn.

Money spent is gone forever.......What you have to keep, with you, is what you bought with that money. I guarantee that you will quickly forget the purchase price if you are happy with the machine........BTDT!

I don’t know much about that brand of loader but being quick attach is a plus, it does not appear to have quick attach bucket system
Tractor appears to be good but that hydraulic valve mounted to a wood 2x6 bolted to the wrong fenders is a mess

On "quick attach buckets": Decades ago I bought a JD 4020 (just under 100 hp for a size benchmark). I found and bought a loader with "permanently....sorta.... attached bucket". The loader to bucket interface had 4 attachment points; 2 from the frame of the loader and 2 from the hydraulic cylinders that change the pitch of the bucket.....and nothing said that the length of the cylinders was/would be exactly the same when you got ready to hook them up! Working alone "that bucket DID NOT want to be attached to that loader frame"!!!!!!!
Fast forward: Buy a different tractor with a quick attach loader and the loader had a "skid steer" type of attachment for any implements you choose to install. 2 levers easily flipped and you just back out of one implement and up under the next implement, raise it slightly with the loader, push the 2 locking levers back down, and get after your business....piece of cake.

If you work alone and only have one implement to install.....a bucket for example, and it remains permanently mounted, then it doesn't matter the type of interface......if not, do yourself a favor and don't walk, RUN away from that potential investment!!!!!!!