Rust on loader cylinder piston

[WindyFarm]

Hi all,

Just took my JD5210 out of winter storage and noticed one of the loader lift cylinders has some rust spots on the piston in the chromed area that retracts into the cylinder. Worried that these may harm the seal and cause it to start leaking. I cleaned them as best I could with some fine steel wool and 600 grit sandpaper but still have some areas that look like they've broken through the outer chrome (shiny part).

Any ideas on how problematic this is and how to possibly patch them up?

Thanks

Steve

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Smear grease on the exposed chrome so it doesn't get any worse. You've already done all you can do. In many cases the pits can pass through the seal without causing damage, the key is to keep the sharp edges of the chrome sanded down, so as not to catch on the seal.

 

[docmirror]

Yeah, I had the same thing a few years ago and learned something. When you put up a hyd machine for storage longer than a few months, make sure whatever hyd cyl you have is fully retracted into the tube. On my loader, I have some small pits just like yours and I used some 800 grit crocus cloth with gas to try to keep it smooth. So far only one side has a tiny leak, but I'm betting that tiny leak will get worse over time. Lesson learned on hyd cylinders and long term storage.

 

[TheBartman47]

Much better condition than my loader cylinders, but I inherited them that way with rust bits all over. I haven't tried to sand paper them down or anything, and they do leak, but only a tiny bit. Mine are originals from 1959 though.

 

[showcrop]

Stick a fork in it-It's done! I had two on a new Woods hoe twenty years ago with pits. One I saw early enough to get it warranteed, the other went until last year, when I got a new rod and seal to the tune of $500.00 at my local shop. Maybe look around for a used one. I repaired a power steering cylinder fourteen years ago with JB weld. I filed the excess down then smoothed with 00 steel wool. The tractor was back for some work last summer and it was still good.

 

[rrlund]

If it does work without leaking, get yourself a can of Fluid Film and spray your cylinders with that if it's going to set outside.

 

[Texasmark]

When I'm not using a cylinder and it sits outside, even under a shed roof, I always tuck the shaft all the way in. That way if the cylinder rusts....and it seems that they will rust over time, the rust is outboard of the seal. But with what you did and some lube over the shaft prior to use, you should be good to go.

 

[rustred]

if your talking about the lower left length of the rod, that is pretty bad shape. i also presume that is a picture of it before you cleaned it ?? with that amount of pitting you will get some oil going past the seal.

 

[LeakyBoot]

Stick a fork in it-It's done! I had two on a new Woods hoe twenty years ago with pits. One I saw early enough to get it warranteed, the other went until last year, when I got a new rod and seal to the tune of $500.00 at my local shop. Maybe look around for a used one. I repaired a power steering cylinder fourteen years ago with JB weld. I filed the excess down then smoothed with 00 steel wool. The tractor was back for some work last summer and it was still good.

I have fixed some big dings with jb weld , file, and sandpaper.

 

[flying belgian]

I've done same as leakyboot. JB weld. They will hold good as new. I also retract cylinders or smear shaft with grease over winter.

 

[WindyFarm]

Thanks for all the good tips guys. I'll do the grease and keep an eye on the pits. If they get any worse I might give the JB Weld idea a try.

The only way I can fully retract the cylinders is to lift the front of the tractor off the ground or disconnect the loader so I'll do the grease routine next year.

 

[MeanGene1]

Best thing I discovered was to use some aluminum foil, just wrap it around the cylinder and work it back and forth, the rust will impregnate into the foil. Might have to repeat as the foil gets "full". Hot rodder's trick for cleaning up chrome parts, works very well

 

[a49deere]

Thanks for all the good tips guys. I'll do the grease and keep an eye on the pits. If they get any worse I might give the JB Weld idea a try.

The only way I can fully retract the cylinders is to lift the front of the tractor off the ground or disconnect the loader so I'll do the grease routine ne

 

[504]

Smear grease on the exposed chrome so it doesn't get any worse. You've already done all you can do. In many cases the pits can pass through the seal without causing damage, the key is to keep the sharp edges of the chrome sanded down, so as not to catch on the seal.View attachment 148590

Polish it with aluminum foil and shoot some of your favorite rust spray on it and run it. Crumple the foil and go to work, works good on a rusty chrome bumper too