Exhaust pipe flange in bad shape

[timsch]

I noticed today that the exhaust pipe was loose under the clamp. I removed the clamp and saw the flange was in pretty bad shape. Is there any simple solution to save this, or is a new one needed?

 

[Duner Wi]

Some muffler shops could make you a new flange on new pipe. Not all shops have that small a pipe anymore.

 

[joeysmith]

I thought YT had replacements but im not seeing them now
Swore I bought one here once

 

[timsch]

I thought YT had replacements but im not seeing them now
Swore I bought one here once

There's this, but I'd hope that I could just do something like buy a flanged end and weld it onto the pipe. The rest of it is fine that I can tell. I didn't know if there could be something packed around that as is to help seal it up.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I noticed today that the exhaust pipe was loose under the clamp. I removed the clamp and saw the flange was in pretty bad shape. Is there any simple solution to save this, or is a new one needed?

View attachment 149266

My local TSC wants $45 for a new muffler....

TOH

 

[joeysmith]

There's this, but I'd hope that I could just do something like buy a flanged end and weld it onto the pipe. The rest of it is fine that I can tell. I didn't know if there could be something packed around that as is to help seal it up.

Parts store probably has a replacement flange you can modify a little an make work
Or do like my grandfather an wrap beer cans an bailing wire around it

 

[timsch]

Parts store probably has a replacement flange you can modify a little an make work
Or do like my grandfather an wrap beer cans an bailing wire around it

My hat's off to Grandpa

 

[Tall T]

I noticed today that the exhaust pipe was loose under the clamp. I removed the clamp and saw the flange was in pretty bad shape. Is there any simple solution to save this, or is a new one needed?

View attachment 149266

Do you gas weld?
What I would do is first try to find another pipe with a similar flange, like the header pipes on my old Austin cars.
If the cone shape was the same, I'd saw or zip cut through your pipe and the new piece a few inches down from the flange.
Then with the new cone clamped in position, oxy/acet weld your existing header pipe up to the new piece.

Pipe to pipe doesn't have to be perfect, but spot weld the two pipes together however they land to get your correct angles.
then remove the whole tractor pipe and muff and fully weld that joint.
Welding is better than brazing in this case because you'll have some gaps to fill at the joint.

An alternate route would be to find a steel ball or ring that conformed to your damaged cone, keep it in place and weld new steel in where the cone needs it. I have lots of steel ball shapes and steel rings that I could use for that purpose. Your replacement metal won't stick to your ball because it would take too much heat to melt it compared to just melting & welding the tin. You can use old worn small grindstones to true up the mating surface . . . . or braze to fill imperfections.

Another way would be to cut a strip of 20 gauge tin about the same width as the cone's taper.
Start at one end using several needle nosed vise grips etc. to clamp it to your old ragged one as you form the circle (heat could help). You should probably put your new metal on the outside of the old so you would always have metal to weld to.
When you come around to where you started, butt the two ends together correctly and weld.

 

[Btzj02]

You may not have enough metal left but before buying a new tail pipe try some aluminum foil. Cut a few strips one inch wide. wrap about 4 or 5 layers around the pipe/manifold flange before reinstalling the clamp.

 

[OldBlue61]

Go to TSC. My local one has them in stock, hanging on a shelf.

 

[timsch]

Yes, I've got welding options. I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks for the tips.

The foil would be easy enough. I was thinking of packing steel wool inside the clamp but that would work best if it could be contained fully so it doesn't crumble and fall out over time with vibration. Foil could help with that. Thin aluminum sheet from a can maybe too.

Regarding TSC stock, are you talking about new ends to weld on?

 

[OldBlue61]

No, complete exhaust system. Whole system is $45.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, I've got welding options. I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks for the tips.

The foil would be easy enough. I was thinking of packing steel wool inside the clamp but that would work best if it could be contained fully so it doesn't crumble and fall out over time with vibration. Foil could help with that. Thin aluminum sheet from a can maybe too.

Regarding TSC stock, are you talking about new ends to weld on?

If that question is addressed to me I am taking about a complete new muffler front to back.

TOH

 

[Lynn Patrick]

Where are you located? There's probably someone near you that has a good used one!

 

[markdtn]

Where are you located? There's probably someone near you that has a good used one!

Yep, I just stumbled over one in my garage in Chattanooga, TN that needs a new home.

 

[timsch]

TOH, that was directed to Ol' Blue (#10). $45 for a complete exhaust system? I'm sure that'll last... That being said, I have one on my way home from work so I'll check it out.

I'm around Houston.

 

[Eman85]

I'm sure the exhaust on my 8N came from Tractor Supply and it's been on my tractor for at least 20 years.

 

[timsch]

I'll check them out, and appreciate the suggestions. I'd be surprised if they are the same quality as 20 years ago. Not arguing with you, just stating the sad state of affairs that we're all familiar with these days.

 

[OldBlue61]

I purchased on a year ago from TSC. Got it home, scuffed it up, shot it with a coat of hi-temp black spray paint, and it's been fine. I was actaully a bit surprised it was as decent as it was.

 

[timsch]

Glad to hear it.

I was checking out the tailgate on a buddy's one year old F350 that was beat to hell on the top. I felt it and wondered if it were plastic, but no, it was metal (foil).

An F350.... SMH.