Heavy rust primer goop

[RedMF40]

Someone gave me a couple cans of this a few years back and they’re new, never opened. I went to use some on a small project and it’s the consistency of cake batter with maybe some mashed potatoes mixed in. Very thick. I applied it with a paint stick, didn’t have a kitchen spatula on hand.

Looks to be drying normally. Anyone know if the thick consistency is normal or maybe the effects of going through a few freeze and thaw cycles? It’s an oil-based formula.

Other question: does it actually work? Not a big deal if it doesn’t, not a “mission critical” item. Just trying to use up materials I have on hand. I’ll be spreading some more to finish up my project. Might even add a topcoat

Gerrit

 

[hoghollow]

I googled it and has high praise from users. They said the thickness was a problem for application also seemed to stand up against rust. Might have to try some

 

[Fawteen]

I use it both in the can and in spraybombs. It's my go-to for touching up equipment and treating the underside of mower decks before Winter storage.

Sounds like your can may need a little thinning, but it's supposed to be quite thick. I usually apply it with the throw-away brushes.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Mix some mineral spirits to it. It should be the consistency of oil based paint.

 

[1948CaseVAI]

When I was welding quite a bit that was my go-to primer but out of a rattle can. It worked very well that way. Have no experience with non-rattle version though.

 

[matthies]

In the spray can version, it's best to use the can right away, otherwise you won't get the rest of it out later.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks for the replies, I have some mineral spirits around so I'll thin it a little now that I have some room in the can. After someone else on this site mentioned it, I'm fabbing up two shelves or side tables on my log splitter to hold the pieces that would normally drop to the side. Especially useful when splitting larger pieces of wood that need to be split again. I have some very rusted diamond plate for the platform and various scavenged pieces of iron from my stash of retired farm implements.

 

[Fawteen]

Thanks for the replies, I have some mineral spirits around so I'll thin it a little now that I have some room in the can. After someone else on this site mentioned it, I'm fabbing up two shelves or side tables on my log splitter to hold the pieces that would normally drop to the side. Especially useful when splitting larger pieces of wood that need to be split again. I have some very rusted diamond plate for the platform and various scavenged pieces of iron from my stash of retired farm implements.

Sounds like a project for the Fabrication forum!

 

[sms]

I'm not sure about this primer but many primers are porous when cured so a top coat is recommended. I also have good things to say about this product, just thin it a little.

 

[560Dennis]

I have used it before, on many projects. Don’t recall it as described, solids would indicate it reacted with air over shelves life. Using it may not give you the rust protection you desire.

 

[rustred]

now i am curious as to why adding oil to thin primer is good. thought you want oil as far away from paint as possible. how will paint stick to an oily surface ?? and i dont see how thick primer is of any benefit. you want it thin to stick to metal properly.

 

[kencombs]

I've used it but new cans. It was a little thick but was brushable out of the can. I thinned and sprayed a rusty tin roof then topped with white Rustoleum. Thinned with acetone for faster dry and sprayed with an airless. Mineral spirits don't flash off quick enough for me.

 

[Watthour]

I use that regularly on raw castings coming from the foundry. They sit for months before machining to allow them to stabilize. It's less expensive and more effective than thermal normalizing, Wheel-A-Brator, or other methods of stress relief. It machines off easily and protects well in the areas not machined. The assemblies get an epoxy hull paint afterward and the Rustoleum doesn't seem to interfere with those coatings. I've often cut it with mineral spirits, acetone, or lacquer thinner depending on the application method and finish of the castings.

It lays down fairly well even when brush applied, so long as it is thinned properly and temperatures are not below standards.