N series PTO adapter

13fx

Member
I'd like to know what opinions are on which PTO adapters are good and which ones are junk and fall apart right away. I have a 47 8N with the original inch and 1/8 PTO shaft that I want to get an adapter for and don't want to buy one that's just going to twist apart in a couple hours.
 
I've used2 types on my old H.Ferguson 20, the spacer-type and the long adapter. The spacer wears out faster, but the adapter is long enough to cause PTO shaft problems with certain implements.
I gave up and installed a new PTO shaft with 1 3/8" spline in my TO20. It is a straighforward process if you don't move anything while the old shaft is out; the new one just slides in, after of course you've properly installed the bearing and oil seal, then the housing.
 
I'm 110% with Ray: Don't bother with the adapters. Just swap the shaft out. Dead easy, cheap job. And the ones you get for an N already have the bearing and seal on it. The short adapter sleeves blow apart too easily under any but the lightest PTO work. The longer adapters and over-running types are, ok, but your distance from drawbar in hole to the end of the PTO shaft will be off, so with many implements you may have to shorten the PTO shaft to make it work. And then the shaft on that implement may not be sized right to work on any other tractors. And the longer adapters and over-running ones typically have some slop and let the shaft wobble around a lot - especially if there's a long unsupported span of PTO shaft on that implement.

With our 2N at our Southern farm, I still use it on the rotary rake. Stopped using the long overrunning adapter because the PTO shaft on that rake is quite a long unsupported span, and would wobble like heck with the over-running adapter. So I used the short adapter sleeves. Got sick of the sleeves breaking apart every other year and spending $40 each time. Three years ago when I broke a sleeve while needing to finish raking and start baling with rain coming on I got fed up. Ordered a complete new shaft with the modern 1-3/8" spline from Amazon while I was right there in the field. Cost $110, had the bearing and seal already installed on it, arrived the next morning, installed in 15 minutes, works great, and way stronger than any adapter. I should have done it 10 years sooner.

That's the way to go. Even if you want an over-running clutch, I'd still swap shafts and get a standard 1-3/8" to 1-3/8" overrunning clutch. But frankly, I never understood why so many folks get so hot/bothered about having over-running clutches on N's. All N's (and most other makes/models through the 1950's) had geared PTO. And folks used (and still use) them without overrunning clutches for everything - typically for much heavier and higher-inertia work than what most people are using an N for today. True, if you happen to be driving at top speed toward a brick wall with a bush hog and hit the clutch to stop when you're only 4' from the wall, the mower's rotary inertia will drive the tranny and keep you moving forward for a few feet and you might hit the wall. An overrunning clutch will prevent that. But another way of preventing that is to just not be driving towards a brick wall at top speed with a bush hog and only hit the clutch to stop when you're only 4' away. Drive and operate your implements with some common sense and there's no reason you need an overrunning clutch.

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I'd like to know what opinions are on which PTO adapters are good and which ones are junk and fall apart right away. I have a 47 8N with the original inch and 1/8 PTO shaft that I want to get an adapter for and don't want to buy one that's just going to twist apart in a couple hours.
I replaced the PTO shaft's with the upgraded 1 3/8" PTO complete assembly,on both my Ferguson TEA-20, as well as my 2-N. My thoughts on adapter sleeves.....they were useless!!!
Bob...
 
I have a 47 8N with the original inch and 1/8 PTO shaft that I want to get an adapter for and don't want to buy one that's just going to twist apart in a couple hours.
I'm with the others, I got a new shaft and replaced the old one. 4 bolts and drain the trans fluid. And, rather than support price-fixing billionaire Bezos and Amazon, why not support our hosts instead? No free shipping like with prime, but the shipping charge plus the cost of a new cap (you'll need one) is still under the 40 dollars extra that Amazon wants for the shaft.

1 3/8" PTO shaft from Yesterday's Tractors
 
I'm with the others, I got a new shaft and replaced the old one. 4 bolts and drain the trans fluid. And, rather than support price-fixing billionaire Bezos and Amazon, why not support our hosts instead? No free shipping like with prime, but the shipping charge is still well under the 40 dollars extra that Amazon wants for the shaft.

1 3/8" PTO shaft from Yesterday's Tractors
It might be added for the OP's benefit: You don't even have to drain the rear end. Just park the tractor facing downhill. It doesn't have to be a steep slope either; driving the rear end up on some blocks will also do it.. Even a slight downhill slope is enough to get the oil level at the rear below the PTO output. Some folks have found it a little hard to pull the old shaft out - sometimes you might need to connect something to the old PTO to give you something to pry/pull on. But the general consensus seems to be they typically come out of there quite easily. Ours certainly did.
 
Even a slight downhill slope is enough to get the oil level at the rear below the PTO output
Yes, that's what I did. But that was before I learned that if your front transmission seal leaks, it's a recipe for having to replace the clutch. If I were to do it again - which I sincerely doubt I'll need to - it's not that hard to drain the fluid. And ya, mine came out easily. No one had twisted the front splines. All in all, one of the easiest automotive-type repairs I've ever done.

In any case, a big thumbs down to those flimsy adapters.
 
The bearing housing on the new shaft assembly may not want to go in the hole. If so, you can either SLIGHTLY enlarge the hole with a dremel tool and sanding/drinding drum or try to dress down the bearing housing. Probably .002-.004 oversized. I did neither on my '49 and was able to start the bolts and pull the thing into the tractor. It will be interesting if I ever have to take it out. I need to put one in my '51 8N.
 
Is the PTO shaft longer on the replacements as well? I had tried to put a sickle mower on the 8N and the stub was too short and then I realized that it was also too small in dia.
 
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