24D weed killer

Old560

Member
I’ve used round up in the past. I’m wanting to switch to 24 D. I don’t know much of anything about 24D. Do they make different mixtures? I’m looking for concentrate. Will be used for spot spray with a 2gallon hand sprayer. mostly killing broadleaf weeds thistle bindweed probably some other weeds. Any suggestions? if anybody else uses it for spot spray? What do you mix per gallon?
 
Roundup and 2-4-d are intended for very different uses. Various weeds require various concentrations, timing and method of application so follow directions on the label according to weeds being targeted. As with any herbicide, you can buy products with different concentration of "active ingredient".
 
Don’t let it drift on to any neighbors trying to raise cotton! Cotton is super sensitive to it.

We’ve had a neighbor that tried to sue another neighbor for 24d damage.
 
24d is for broadleaf weeds only it will damage trees, flowers, anything with broad leaves roundup is all-around killer, grass weeds whatever with no carryover 24d has a very small carryover some cotton and corn are bred to be roundup ready as they tolerate roundup, some cotton is resistant to dicamba so it can also be used on it. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH 24D AND DICAMBA as the tend to drift very easily and will kill things you don't want to kill on your property and that of others
 
And tomatoes. It can be pretty tough on tomatoes.

They are different, roundup soaks into the roots and kills most green plants from the roots up.

24d is a burner, it over excites the broadleaf only plants to grow too fast and will burn off the above ground portion of the plant. Some perennials will regrow from their roots. It acts on broadleaves in a few hours, instead of a few days like roundup.

There are 3 formulations, ester, amine, and the new one, is it coline I think formulation.

Ester is more aggressive and more likely to affect others.

Amine is more salt based and not as strong, not as likely to affect others.

Coline is the newest version and least likely to bother others.

I think I have those listed right, consult the labels to be sure.

Someone somewhere in this thread will say oh, it’s agent Orange, total poison! Which is wrong, a lie. Agent Orange was part 24d and part 24t. The t part was the terribly bad stuff. Couldn’t really get the poisons out of the t part of that mix.

Paul
 
It's the only herbicide I know of that vaporizes and forms a gas that moves off site in the air. Most all others only drift in droplets of water. I'd think long and hard about using it around the yard. Not really what it's made for.
 
I use 2,4-D LV 6 lb at 3% so in 2 gallons of water I add 7.5 ounces. Keep the spray coarse! And keep it close to the pest you want to kill. Make sure it dries before sundown or it will pick up and move. Keep the jug empty when not in use as the chemical is absorbed . Use house hold ammonia to flush the jug and the spray wand after using.
 
I’ve used round up in the past. I’m wanting to switch to 24 D. I don’t know much of anything about 24D. Do they make different mixtures? I’m looking for concentrate. Will be used for spot spray with a 2gallon hand sprayer. mostly killing broadleaf weeds thistle bindweed probably some other weeds. Any suggestions? if anybody else uses it for spot spray? What do you mix per gallon?
I have no quibble with the information above. Round-up (glyphosate) is a non selective herbicide, grasses or broadleaves. Repeated use will result in populations of weeds that can tolerate it. Canadian thistle being one, stinging nettles being another - glyphosate will knock them down but label rates will not eradicate them and others. 2,4-D has a different mode of action. It is only effective on broadleaves. It is marginally effective on clover and will knock thistles down but they will come back strong. Repeated use will result in populations of tolerant weeds.

Maintaining a herbicide strip under trees in an orchard, glyphosate and 2,4-D are often used in combination. The amine formulation of 2,4-D is labeled for this application and will not distress the trees unless green tissue is contacted.

Neither chemical has residual action so repeated applications are necessary as weeds germinate throughout the season.

Follow the label instructions. Simple mathematics will allow you to calculate rate for your 2 gallon sprayer based on the label recommendations.

If you find something that really works on bindweed, let me know....
 
Killing Canadian thistle is tough.

Once they establish, they have a huge root mass that can regrow new shoots for years.

Also Canadian thistle moves nutrients from the root to the shoots to try to feed the new blooms all spring. It is very difficult for any herbicide to kill the thistles at this time. A burner herbicide like 24d will burn off the green part, and a translocating herbicide like roundup will weaken the plants a lot, but spring applications just don’t kill the thistles off. That root just keeps sending new shoots.

After blooming, the nutrient flow changes, and the plant tries to store massive amounts in their roots. This is when herbicides like roundup will kill them off. This is usually well after anyone would spray in a growing crop tho. But a translocating herbicide like roundup works really well in this timeframe. Even the burners this late do a better job starving the root and weaken it a lot more.

Thistles you need timing and or many repeated applications to knock that root out.

Paul
 
Best Canada thistle control I've seen was with a chemical called Transline. Think Stinger may be another name for the same thing. It's easier on clover.
 
Best Canada thistle control I've seen was with a chemical called Transline. Think Stinger may be another name for the same thing. It's easier on clover.
Clopyralid is the chemical in Stinger and it looks to be the same as Transline. A broadleaf herbicide. Two or three well timed applications to thistle will eradicate a patch. It's expensive but the effective rate is low - a small bottle goes a long way. A 2.5 gallon jug is well north of $500. It is commonly used by lawn care companies as it is very effective eradicating Dutch white clover from lawns and golf courses. I like clover and violets and such in my yard... Anyway, clopyralid is rather persistent and compost from yard clippings and such from treated areas will contain effective doses of the herbicide and stunt and kill broadleaf plants wherever it's used.
 
Don’t let it drift on to any neighbors trying to raise cotton! Cotton is super sensitive to it.

We’ve had a neighbor that tried to sue another neighbor for 24d damage.
Tobacco is also very sensitive to the drift, around here we were always warned about that. Mark.
 
Lots of good iinfo here but do not forget what was said at the first - 24D and Roundup are for different things. If you spot spray a lawn for example with Roundup you kill all the grass in the spot as well as the weed. With 24D you just kill the weed but also any other susceptible things it drifts on to so keep the spray in big droplets and hold the nozzle close to the weed on a calm day.
 
Also, you can pasture it to sheep. They love Canada Thistles. They will keep them eaten to ground level.
Or if it would work, plant the the ground to pure alfalfa and make hay. It will crowd them out. Alfalfa it good stuff.
 
The affect on grass can vary by heat and moisture in the ground. Grass that is growing well and is strong shouldn't be bothered, but when the ground is dry you may want to go with a lighter mix.
 
In general 2,4-D and Roundup work better on any annual and perennial plants/weeds when applied late in the season when the plant is taking nutirents and herbicide into their roots to overwinter. We hate clover in the orchard and have had good success with 2,4-D with Stinger with an extra large dose of surfactant. Clover is lucky if you find a 4-leaf but it can fool you. Clover has hairy leaves and if you don't get enough surfactant in the mix, you're not wetting the weed nor getting complete control. After a sprayer pass look at the weed leaf with a hand lense. It must be shiny, no droplets.








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And tomatoes. It can be pretty tough on tomatoes.

They are different, roundup soaks into the roots and kills most green plants from the roots up.

24d is a burner, it over excites the broadleaf only plants to grow too fast and will burn off the above ground portion of the plant. Some perennials will regrow from their roots. It acts on broadleaves in a few hours, instead of a few days like roundup.

There are 3 formulations, ester, amine, and the new one, is it coline I think formulation.

Ester is more aggressive and more likely to affect others.

Amine is more salt based and not as strong, not as likely to affect others.

Coline is the newest version and least likely to bother others.

I think I have those listed right, consult the labels to be sure.

Someone somewhere in this thread will say oh, it’s agent Orange, total poison! Which is wrong, a lie. Agent Orange was part 24d and part 24t. The t part was the terribly bad stuff. Couldn’t really get the poisons out of the t part of that mix.

Paul
Excellent description of 24-D"s and 24-5T. We used 24-D in the late 1940's to get canada thisthes out of oats.The agent Orange mix was thousands of gallons of mix heavily sprayed out of airplanes to defoliate trees .
 
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