T20 fergie,hard steering

[GSW]

I just bought a `1952 T20. I took it for a test before i bought it. It seemed to steer very hard. I told him,and he said they all do.
im kinda worried about that.
I got it very cheap, good shape, starts great motor quiet no smoke. Has" Hupp hi \ lo shifter". Also it dosnt see to be as slow as i figured ,on low gear and the hi low shifter on low.
it does have bigger wheels on back,would that make it go a bit faster in low? The little tractor isnt perfect,but i just want something to play with.
Just dont like the hard steering.Also the alternater isnt charging.He said it was ,but was sitting a couple months.Could it be something simple?
I have more questions,but ill let you all figure these problems out first

 

[GSW]

I was thinking....Can i put an electric steering system on this ,for an assist? Like an ATV ,or UTV?

 

[John Deere D]

I was thinking....Can i put an electric steering system on this ,for an assist? Like an ATV ,or UTV?

Is the Transmission GEAR SHIFT cover a TWO PIECE cover, or a ONE PIECE COVER?

One piece cover is from a TEA-20.......England..

Two piece Transmission gear shift cover were manufactured in the USA ...

The picture with the STARTER is Identical to my TEA-20... manufactured in Coventry England.
Lucas Starter...Lucas Ignition......TEA-20
Standard Motor company...Engine...TEA-20
My Ferguson "TEA-20" has been on my property since new.

The Rims and Tires are off some other Tractor..

You may have a MUTT......Several different Ferguson Tractors married up together......

Jack the front AXEL / Tires off the ground....Tray the steering...
Ferguson Parts Book was purchased off e-bay.....

Any Vintage Tractors I have worked on for the most part, are "suffering, form previous owners syndrome".
A parts book is the way to go, insure proper assembly.

 

[Ray,IN]

Bought a MF 135 gasser once that had hard steering. I replaced everything in the steering gear housing ($$$); no improvement. Sold it to a tractor dealer that stopped when he saw it parked in my front yard.

 

[pomester]

I just bought a `1952 T20. I took it for a test before i bought it. It seemed to steer very hard. I told him,and he said they all do.
im kinda worried about that.
I got it very cheap, good shape, starts great motor quiet no smoke. Has" Hupp hi \ lo shifter". Also it dosnt see to be as slow as i figured ,on low gear and the hi low shifter on low.
it does have bigger wheels on back,would that make it go a bit faster in low? The little tractor isnt perfect,but i just want something to play with.
Just dont like the hard steering.Also the alternater isnt charging.He said it was ,but was sitting a couple months.Could it be something simple?
I have more questions,but ill let you all figure these problems out first

Agree with JD-D. TEA-20, Standard engine. Looks to be an English hood. And the suggestion to jack the front wheels off the ground and see if the steering is still stiff. If so, the steering box is suspect. It might be dry or have some adjustment issues. If the steering turns easily with the front wheels off the ground the the problem lies elsewhere. The spindles associated with the front axle have a bearing at the bottom where it exits the housing. They may be rough, frozen, or gone entirely. Possibly just lubricating all the mechanisms associated with the steering might result in much improvement. The steering should work easily.

Alternator is likely something simple. First step is to check belt tension. The alternator needs to turn a certain speed to begin charging. Rev the motor high and maybe it will cut in. There is an internal mechanism which controls the 'cut-in' and there are different ones. I had trouble getting an alternator to begin charging and had the mechanism changed to a 'low speed cut-in' by an electrical shop which cured the issue.

 

[docmirror]

I have a TO-20 and it steers fairly easy. I'd say the steering box or spindle bearings need looked at. Shouldn't need a PS kit for this little tractor.

 

[GSW]

Is the Transmission GEAR SHIFT cover a TWO PIECE cover, or a ONE PIECE COVER?

One piece cover is from a TEA-20.......England..

Two piece Transmission gear shift cover were manufactured in the USA ...

The picture with the STARTER is Identical to my TEA-20... manufactured in Coventry England.
Lucas Starter...Lucas Ignition......TEA-20
Standard Motor company...Engine...TEA-20
My Ferguson "TEA-20" has been on my property since new.

The Rims and Tires are off some other Tractor..

You may have a MUTT......Several different Ferguson Tractors married up together......

Jack the front AXEL / Tires off the ground....Tray the steering...
Ferguson Parts Book was purchased off e-bay.....

Any Vintage Tractors I have worked on for the most part, are "suffering, form previous owners syndrome".
A parts book is the way to go to insure proper assembly.

i was wrong on the steering.Where i bought it ,there was not much place to drive it.I got it today...it steers quite normal now. sorry about that.
What amperage alternater does it take or something close to it?.This one either isnt connected,or just doant work.Been using it all afternoon in the woods,.
I may have to get instructions on how to connect it. the alt i meant

 

[pomester]

i was wrong on the steering.Where i bought it ,there was not much place to drive it.I got it today...it steers quite normal now. sorry about that.
What amperage alternater does it take or something close to it?.This one either isnt connected,or just doant work.Been using it all afternoon in the woods,.
I may have to get instructions on how to connect it. the alt i meant

Post a close-up picture of the alternator. Someone here will identify it and we can discuss how it should be wired.

 

[GSW]

Agree with JD-D. TEA-20, Standard engine. Looks to be an English hood. And the suggestion to jack the front wheels off the ground and see if the steering is still stiff. If so, the steering box is suspect. It might be dry or have some adjustment issues. If the steering turns easily with the front wheels off the ground the the problem lies elsewhere. The spindles associated with the front axle have a bearing at the bottom where it exits the housing. They may be rough, frozen, or gone entirely. Possibly just lubricating all the mechanisms associated with the steering might result in much improvement. The steering should work easily.

Alternator is likely something simple. First step is to check belt tension. The alternator needs to turn a certain speed to begin charging. Rev the motor high and maybe it will cut in. There is an internal mechanism which controls the 'cut-in' and there are different ones. I had trouble getting an alternator to begin charging and had the mechanism changed to a 'low speed cut-in' by an electrical shop which cured the issue. ,,

no,it does not charge by reving the engine. I see no wires going to the battery.....or should there be? O could redo the wiring,for i dont think its actually connected to anything

Post a close-up picture of the alternator. Someone here will identify it and we can discuss how it should be wired.

 

[GSW]

The alternater isn't conneted. I see that when cutting front wheels hard in a small hill,the tie rod hits the fan on alrernater. I enagine thats why the previous owner didn't bother with it.
It has to be moved back further on the bracket.
I don't think this is the correct one for the tractor.. I'll have to rewire and get this issue fixed. This is gonna be a bit of a project tractor,please bear with me .

 

[GSW]

The alternater isn't conneted. I see that when cutting front wheels hard in a small hill,the tie rod hits the fan on alrernater. I enagine thats why the previous owner didn't bother with it.
It has to be moved back further on the bracket.
I don't think this is the correct one for the tractor.. I'll have to rewire and get this issue fixed. This is gonna be a bit of a project tractor,please bear with me .

Also the steering leaks. That's not a problem .

 

[John Deere D]

The alternator isn't conneted. I see that when cutting front wheels hard in a small hill,the tie rod hits the fan on alrernater. I enagine thats why the previous owner didn't bother with it.
It has to be moved back further on the bracket.
I don't think this is the correct one for the tractor.. I'll have to rewire and get this issue fixed. This is gonna be a bit of a project tractor,please bear with me .

Your Tractor NEVER had an Alternator....as when it left the factory,Coventry England.

Lucas Starter...Lucas Ignition......Lucas Generator....

Anytime I upgrade from a Generator to an Alternator...
I install a ONE WIRE Alternator....100 % satisfied......

IF you install an Alternator.......MAKE sure you have the battery connected properly, so as not to DESTROY the Alternator!

As in......CHECK / VERIFY is Battery Negative Ground/Earth.....and Positive to the start solenoid to the Starter???

 

[John Deere D]

Also the steering leaks. That's not a problem .

Purchase a parts Book.........

 

[pomester]

I don't recognize the brand of alternator, and it's certainly not an elegant installation. I can't see where the wires terminate - is there an external regulator? There needs to be a connection to the battery + terminal via some route. I don't know a lot about the English Fergusons, I'm aware that some were 12v from the factory and some were 6v. If this is a 6v -> 12v conversion there needs to be either an internally regulated ('one wire') alternator or a 12v external regulator in place of the original 6v regulator. You need a volt meter (cheap multimeters are available, ebay/amazon/wherever) to do much sleuthing. I've got a friend with a TO-20 without a functioning charging system who just charges the battery every so often and keeps right on using it. That would drive me nuts, but it works for him.

Many owners use 'corn head grease' in the steering box as it will not leak out the seals like even heavy oils. Available from John Deere and elsewhere I'm sure.

 

[GSW]

I don't recognize the brand of alternator, and it's certainly not an elegant installation. I can't see where the wires terminate - is there an external regulator? There needs to be a connection to the battery + terminal via some route. I don't know a lot about the English Fergusons, I'm aware that some were 12v from the factory and some were 6v. If this is a 6v -> 12v conversion there needs to be either an internally regulated ('one wire') alternator or a 12v external regulator in place of the original 6v regulator. You need a volt meter (cheap multimeters are available, ebay/amazon/wherever) to do much sleuthing. I've got a friend with a TO-20 without a functioning charging system who just charges the battery every so often and keeps right on using it. That would drive me nuts, but it works for him.

Many owners use 'corn head grease' in the steering box as it will not leak out the seals like even heavy oils. Available from John Deere and elsewhere I'm sure.

I know the alternater doesn't fit. It's a 12 v conversion I believe . I'll have to just charge the battery every now and then,till I get this figured out.

 

[Jim.ME]

It is a conversion, there is no doubt to that. As John Deere D said your tractor originally had a Lucas generator. I am not sure, but that might be a Lucas alternator on your tractor. Depending on your location there might be some better options for an alternator, when you decide to make that repair. There is a place in your profile where you can add a location that will show in your avatar when you post.

 

[GSW]

Yes I think your right on the alternater. I was looking today. I can move the mounting hole a bit,just to clear the rubbing of the tie rod. I'll see if the alternater works first. I have no idea how to wire it. ( have to look on you tube ) . This is a Frankenstein tractor.

 

[GSW]

What motor oil can I use? I do not know what's in it now. I was thinking 15/40?
And can I use tranny hydraulic oil in rear?

 

[GSW]

Your Tractor NEVER had an Alternator....as when it left the factory,Coventry England.

Lucas Starter...Lucas Ignition......Lucas Generator....

Anytime I upgrade from a Generator to an Alternator...
I install a ONE WIRE Alternator....100 % satisfied......

IF you install an Alternator.......MAKE sure you have the battery connected properly, so as not to DESTROY the Alternator!

As in......CHECK / VERIFY is Battery Negative Ground/Earth.....and Positive to the start solenoid to the Starter???

yup,i understand it origionally had a generater.this was redone 12 volt at some time. Where do i find a one wire alternater? Any Delco on amazon?

thanks for putting up with my questions.I need a lot of help getting this old tractor the way i want it.
Thanks

 

[GSW]

I don't recognize the brand of alternator, and it's certainly not an elegant installation. I can't see where the wires terminate - is there an external regulator? There needs to be a connection to the battery + terminal via some route. I don't know a lot about the English Fergusons, I'm aware that some were 12v from the factory and some were 6v. If this is a 6v -> 12v conversion there needs to be either an internally regulated ('one wire') alternator or a 12v external regulator in place of the original 6v regulator. You need a volt meter (cheap multimeters are available, ebay/amazon/wherever) to do much sleuthing. I've got a friend with a TO-20 without a functioning charging system who just charges the battery every so often and keeps right on using it. That would drive me nuts, but it works for him.

Many owners use 'corn head grease' in the steering box as it will not leak out the seals like even heavy oils. Available from John Deere and elsewhere I'm sure.

i have no idea what i have for an alternater,or how its supposed to be connected

would this be a good alternater ,

One Wire Alternator Replacement for 100 Amp 1 Wire 10SI Self-exciting SBC BBC GM High Output, Alternators - Amazon Canada

One Wire Alternator Replacement for 100 Amp 1 Wire 10SI Self-exciting SBC BBC GM High Output in Alternators.

www.amazon.ca