I put a brand new starter on my 2130 John Deere tractor. First time I tried to start the starter, stuck on and only stopped when I pulled off the cabl

jmcrow

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I have a 2130 John Deere tractor I put a new starter on because the old one burnt out when it’s stuck on starting. The first time I tried to start the tractor. It’s stuck on and didn’t stop until I pulled the cables off the post on the batteries. Does anyone have any ideas? What could
 
I have a 2130 John Deere tractor I put a new starter on because the old one burnt out when it’s stuck on starting. The first time I tried to start the tractor. It’s stuck on and didn’t stop until I pulled the cables off the post on the batteries. Does anyone have any ideas? What could
Did new starter come with bendix gear ? If not and you used old gear on new starter, the gear/spring is bad. If new starter came with gear/spring, teeth flywheel might be damaged. If tractor has a removable cover, remove it to inspect teeth on flywheel. If you don't see damaged teeth at first, rotate flywheel with screwdriver (if possible, a 4L diesel is a chore). You can also see several teeth by removing starter.
 
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Was this a brand new, never used, starter or a rebuilt? I have had a couple rebuilt starters that hung in. Took them back and swapped the for another. Did it twice for one, who knows how long they set on a shelf somewhere leading to making the plungers sticky.
 
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Does anyone have any ideas?
Hello JM, welcome to YT! Unfortunately as Jim said this is not an uncommon problem with replacement or rebuilt starters these days. One other thing that causes a Delco starter to stay engaged is the starter drive retainer on the end of the armature breaking or coming out of place. When you get it pulled out take a photo of the drive end facing right in the gear opening showing the entire part that goes inside the bell housing. When I see it I will report wether it has failed or not.
 
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If it's a new starter, I'm guessing it came with a new solenoid and bendix. Most do (including the one we just put on our 2120). If the old solenoid was re-used, it could definitely be sticking contacts (not uncommon). Or if the bendix was re-used, it could definitely be the retainer problem (also not uncommon). But since it stopped when you pulled the cables off, I don't think it's the retainer problem. If it was, the battery would have no effect on it. The problem with the retainer going on Delco starters is the starter staying engaged - the engine spinning the starter. Not it continuously cranking like you have (starter spinning engine). So I'm thinking it must be electrical.

If it came with a new solenoid and bendix, I'm highly doubtful the contacts are burning/sticking or the bendix is bad. More likely that something is wired from the wrong one of the two main posts on the solenoid. Somehow power is getting from the down-stream (starter-side) of the two main posts on the solenoid to the excitation wire/terminal. Had just that on an old Fordson one time - I foolishly installed a new starter in a rush in the field and had the heavy terminal leading to the starter turned such that it was just barely making contact with the excitation terminal. So once it cranked and energized the starter solenoid, it was also energizing the excitation wire and kept cranking.

Send a picture of the solenoid showing the three connection points and how you have it wired. Might be an easy fix before you go to the trouble of pulling the starter again.
 
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Also could be something as simple as a faulty ignition switch. Pull the excitation wire from the starter solenoid and measure the voltage there when you turn the key to the crank position (or press the starter button - not sure if the 2130 is the same as the 2120) then keep measuring once you release the key/button. Should be voltage at the excitation wire when in the crank/start position, and it should drop back off to zero once you release the button/key.
 
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Also could be something as simple as a faulty ignition switch. Pull the excitation wire from the starter solenoid and measure the voltage there when you turn the key to the crank position (or press the starter button - not sure if the 2130 is the same as the 2120) then keep measuring once you release the key/button. Should be voltage at the excitation wire when in the crank/start position, and it should drop back off to zero once you release the button/key.
If the drive lock collar is broke it will keep the solenoid S terminal energized through the solenoid “pull in” coil. You will have to disconnect it from the solenoid to test for that issue.
 
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it could definitely be the retainer problem (also not uncommon). But since it stopped when you pulled the cables off, I don't think it's the retainer problem.
If for some reason his engine is not starting is generally when a failed lock collar shows up. The solenoid spring can but does not always disengage the drive once the battery cable is removed.
 
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The old starter was replaced because it stuck in start position. New starter does the same thing. I'd say you probably have a bad switch. Or a weak battery that's causing the contacts to overheat and stick.
 
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If the drive lock collar is broke it will keep the solenoid S terminal energized through the solenoid “pull in” coil. You will have to disconnect it from the solenoid to test for that issue.
Well
I checked the wires on the
If it's a new starter, I'm guessing it came with a new solenoid and bendix. Most do (including the one we just put on our 2120). If the old solenoid was re-used, it could definitely be sticking contacts (not uncommon). Or if the bendix was re-used, it could definitely be the retainer problem (also not uncommon). But since it stopped when you pulled the cables off, I don't think it's the retainer problem. If it was, the battery would have no effect on it. The problem with the retainer going on Delco starters is the starter staying engaged - the engine spinning the starter. Not it continuously cranking like you have (starter spinning engine). So I'm thinking it must be electrical.

If it came with a new solenoid and bendix, I'm highly doubtful the contacts are burning/sticking or the bendix is bad. More likely that something is wired from the wrong one of the two main posts on the solenoid. Somehow power is getting from the down-stream (starter-side) of the two main posts on the solenoid to the excitation wire/terminal. Had just that on an old Fordson one time - I foolishly installed a new starter in a rush in the field and had the heavy terminal leading to the starter turned such that it was just barely making contact with the excitation terminal. So once it cranked and energized the starter solenoid, it was also energizing the excitation wire and kept cranking.

Send a picture of the solenoid showing the three connection points and how you have it wired. Might be an easy fix before you go to the trouble of pulling the starter again.
 

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Well
I checked the wires on the
That’s not a Delco starter, so what I said about the lock collar may not apply to this starter. The connection to the smaller “energize” terminal can’t be seen so it’s hard to tell if there is a shorted connection there. I doubt there is, it would seem to me a short there would kick it in when the battery was connected and keep cranking until it was unhooked again.
 
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That’s not a Delco starter, so what I said about the lock collar may not apply to this starter. The connection to the smaller “energize” terminal can’t be seen so it’s hard to tell if there is a shorted connection there. I doubt there is, it would seem to me a short there would kick it in when the battery was connected and keep cranking until it was unhooked again.
If it's a short to the starter post of the solenoid (not the battery side), it would only energize when it was cranked at first. But once energized it would then keep feeding itself and never unenergize until the battery was disconnected. I agree it a little unlikely that the OP would have a short there that he wouldn't have seen himself. But it would still be good to see a picture showing that terminal.
 
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That’s not a Delco starter, so what I said about the lock collar may not apply to this starter. The connection to the smaller “energize” terminal can’t be seen so it’s hard to tell if there is a shorted connection there. I doubt there is, it would seem to me a short there would kick it in when the battery was connected and keep cranking until it was unhooked again.
I took the wire off the energized terminal check the switch switch seems to be working just fine. I put it back on and I bent it a little bit away from the casting on starter motor and now it doesn’t seem to stick. Doesn’t start, but that’s a whole lot easier problem to fix.
 
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The old starter was replaced because it stuck in start position. New starter does the same thing. I'd say you probably have a bad switch. Or a weak battery that's causing the contacts to overheat and stick.
I took the small wire off and checked the switch. Seems good. Put the wire back on bent it away from the casting of the starter motor and now it doesn’t seem to be sticking, but the batteries are more fully charged
 
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I have a 2130 John Deere tractor I put a new starter on because the old one burnt out when it’s stuck on starting. The first time I tried to start the tractor. It’s stuck on and didn’t stop until I pulled the cables off the post on the batteries. Does anyone have any ideas? What could
Did new starter come with bendix gear ? If not and you used old gear on new starter, the gear/spring is bad. If new starter came with gear/spring, teeth flywheel might be damaged. If tractor has a removable cover, remove it to inspect teeth on flywheel. If you don't see damaged teeth at first, rotate flywheel with screwdriver (if possible, a 4L diesel is a chore). You can also see several teeth by removing starter.
I took the small wire off check the switch seems good. I bent the little wire away from the casting of the starter motor and now it doesn’t seem to stick.
 
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