Sticky valve on a W30

[Charlie M]

My W30 has often after sitting over the winter had a valve that would stick open. Each time I removed the valve cover, gave it a tap with a hammer and it closed and worked OK for the summer. last year I didn't run the tractor as I had it apart for replacing fenders and other work so it was almost a year before I tried to start it. I had a valve that would stick open every time and the only way to get it closed was to pry it up. I tried oiling it an working it up and down a dozen times but every time it stayed stuck open. It will travel part way but when traveled full distance it sticks and stays open until pried up again. I've had the valve spring off and the valve shaft that is showing is clean and shiny. Is there anything I can try before I start taking the head off to find out what is going on? I'm not looking forward to going that far if there is another possible way to get that valve to work.

 

[gmccool]

Are you sure the valve spring isn't weak??

 

[used red MN]

Is there anything I can try before I start taking the head off to find out what is going on? I'm not looking forward to going that far if there is another possible way to get that valve to work.

Spray carburetor cleaner, Berryman B12 is the best. Often carbon builds up on the valve stem at the bottom of the guide, the carb cleaner will break that down if that is the problem.

 

[rustred]

when the valve stem gets rust of gunk in it is is very hard to have them work freely. proper way is to remove the head , remove the valves and clean the guides with a valve stem brush. you will not get them free and clean any other hill billy way. your on the right track,... remove the head.

 

[Duner Wi]

Assuming valve sticking is caused by varnish buildup from old gas. I have got valves s to free up by adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the gasoline. You say you removed valve spring and used oil to no effect. Try MMO and see what happens.

 

[old]

My W30 has often after sitting over the winter had a valve that would stick open. Each time I removed the valve cover, gave it a tap with a hammer and it closed and worked OK for the summer. last year I didn't run the tractor as I had it apart for replacing fenders and other work so it was almost a year before I tried to start it. I had a valve that would stick open every time and the only way to get it closed was to pry it up. I tried oiling it an working it up and down a dozen times but every time it stayed stuck open. It will travel part way but when traveled full distance it sticks and stays open until pried up again. I've had the valve spring off and the valve shaft that is showing is clean and shiny. Is there anything I can try before I start taking the head off to find out what is going on? I'm not looking forward to going that far if there is another possible way to get that valve to work.

Mix 1 quart of ATF with 3 gal of gas and run it. The ATF will clean up that valve

 

[rustred]

If that valve was originally stuck due to rust and sitting there is nothing that will prevent it from sticking again. You can tap it loose then run the tractor and it will stick again. There is no other way to clean guides other than remove them and use a brush to clean them. Did that s few times with the same problems as u describe. The rust sure is not going to disappear by its self. Plus all it does is accelerate the guide wear. And if you wiggle that valve stem when the rocker is loose and there is no wiggle that says it’s plugged up, so it’s a tear down. Then once you clean the guide it will have clearance. Plus if you remove the head do them all. And have a good look at the seats and valves also.