Ih 706 generator to alternator

[Young farmer]

My generator quit working and I want to put a good sized alternator on my 706 because I have multiple lights and high amp draw, I’m thinking about putting a 1 wire alternator if I do that will the amp light go out or read that it’s not working and stay on, in the picture what wire hooks to the alternator the blue or the yellow If I do a 1 wire alternator, I appreciate any replies.

 

[Farmall M 248]

Definitely go with a 1 wire alternator and check out Yesterday’s Tractor they have 63 amp for a reasonable price.

 

[Jim.ME]

The indicator light may stay on with a one wire alternator as the excitation circuit in a 3-wire alternator controls indicator light. That indicator light provision is not in most 1-wire alternators. If you want to keep an indicator light go with a 3-wire. You could install a voltmeter in place of the indicator light.

YT and it's parent company sell parts to support and provide this site for our use. Consider purchasing here before buying from Steiner and other competitors.

 

[MeanGene1]

I have the 1-wire alternators from the site on my 8N and my 850, and they work very well, they start to charge at low RPM, do not need to be revved way up to excite. The kits also come with good brackets, pulley and belt

 

[used red MN]

in the picture what wire hooks to the alternator the blue or the yellow

It’s not that simple. The generator utilizes a voltage regulator which is a small square metal box with 4 wires on it back under the fuel tank or in the area below the dash. To make the conversion reliable the regulator needs removed and wired around. Can’t give you more details right now. Let us know how you want to proceed.

 

[MeanGene1]

It’s not that simple. The generator utilizes a voltage regulator which is a small square metal box with 4 wires on it back under the fuel tank or in the area below the dash. To make the conversion reliable the regulator needs removed and wired around. Can’t give you more details right now. Let us know how you want to proceed.

Are you sure you need to remove all that for a 1-wire? I put on on my Case 680E in 1995, just ran the one wire and tied up/ ignored the rat's nest, been fine ever since. Yes, you can get a 24V Delco 1-wire alternator. Our 706D's never had a problem (60's- early 70's) so I've never done it on one of those

 

[Ericp351]

He wants the idiot light. This ain't hard. If wants a gm alt., just get a used , internal reg., 3 wire. Good enough for a coupe Deville!. Assume he taps off-lites, et cetera at his volt reg. Will need to sort out. Not hard. Stop by a wreck yard, as vintage gm better and cheaper than China stuff. Don,t drink the (sissy) cool aid that you need a silly, probably imported, 1 wire kit! Consider a fuse link. Way better to have gen rebuilt, used, but I ain,t one for windmills to-day.

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you sure you need to remove all that for a 1-wire? I put on on my Case 680E in 1995, just ran the one wire and tied up/ ignored the rat's nest, been fine ever since. Yes, you can get a 24V Delco 1-wire alternator. Our 706D's never had a problem (60's- early 70's) so I've never done it on one of those

No, you don't have to remove all the generator and regulator wiring if you want a bunch of useless scrap hanging around as you have on the tractor to confuse things in the future.

Remove the generator stuff, clean it up and do it right.

 

[Duner Wi]

"I want to put a good sized alternator on my 706 because I have multiple lights and high amp draw, "
My advice would be to do a 10 or 12 si Delco correctly wired as the factory wired the Alt and not incorrect as you find most online wiring diagrams. It's not that difficult.

 

[MeanGene1]

No, you don't have to remove all the generator and regulator wiring if you want a bunch of useless scrap hanging around as you have on the tractor to confuse things in the future.

Remove the generator stuff, clean it up and do it right.

But you don't HAVE to- which was my point. This particular backhoe was needed up and running quickly, and is far from a beauty queen or restoration project, just a beater (actually pretty beaten up after years with a breaker on it). If you think you've seen a Case Extendahoe that's wobbly, try one that's been a dedicated breaker rig for an underground outfit for years lol. On my 8N and 850 (likeable tractors!) I did remove all the old stuff and packed it away "just in case" and wired them from scratch. In fact I converted both to the car & truck type 4-pole solenoids, Mopar ballast resisters and universal key switches, so they are key-start, and now I can keep one spare solenoid and resisterfor all my stuff. Purists will rant about the push-button starters, but this works best for me. The wiring harness that comes with the kits from the site are pretty good, but I had a big roll of 10 ga wire, so made my own with that

 

[Duner Wi]

Below is from Madenterprises in California. They sell a 8 gauge wiring harness for your anticipated 94 amp 12 si. This would work better than one wire for high amp draw.

These are GM DELCO alternators with built-in voltage regulators, but not “ONE-WIRE” alternators–there is a difference. (“ONE-WIRE” alternators were built for farm tractors and industrial applications with minimal accessories and short-in-length wire harness–the “one-wire” model is basically used for a battery charger.)

The “standard” model (as GM installed on cars and trucks, three-wire) is the best for “street cars,” and it works equally well with Racing and Industrial applications too.

(1) It is not expensive, and replacements are found where auto parts are sold. (Practical, never miss a race or a car show, while waiting for a replacement to be shipped. And never get stuck away from home where there is no “one wire” replacement to be found.)

(2) The voltage regulator can read voltage “down-stream” from the alternator, at the
common power distribution in the wire harness. This feature is critically important to good electrical system performance–The “standard” three-wire can do it, but the “one-wire” cannot do it.

 

[MeanGene1]

So much hate for the one-wire lol. Another alternative if you run a really high amp load, big lights and stereo etc, is the Ford G3 alternator- a popular one was found on stuff like the Taurus, 100 plus amps. There is life outside of GM lol

 

[Duner Wi]

One wire are great if you do not require the performance of 3 wire. Don't go one wire if you want best performance and have high amp requirements.

 

[MeanGene1]

I remember when my dad had the 69 Mach1- which I bought from him in '73 and still have. He put Tung-Sol "aircraft landing" lights in the high beams, which fit right in the light buckets. You could hold your hand 3 ft in front of them and feel the heat- and they would light up the road for a loooong ways. The stock 42 amp Ford alternator would keep up with them- barely. One of his buddies tried it in his GTO with the 37 amp Delco, and they would run the battery down

 

[Young farmer]

thanks everyone, if I go to a 1 wire where does the Main/big wire I’m hooking to the alternator where does it hook to the tractor? Can I just hook up the big wire and not remove the voltage regulator?

 

[used red MN]

thanks everyone, if I go to a 1 wire where does the Main/big wire I’m hooking to the alternator where does it hook to the tractor? Can I just hook up the big wire and not remove the voltage regulator?

If you want to “hack it” depending on the amperes the alternator you choose engine a 10 gauge for an alternator up to 60 amps and an 8 gauge for anything higher than that. Run it back to where the battery cable hooks to the starter solenoid. Tape up you wires that when to the generator and pray nothing shorts out in the old regulator system. As Jim mentioned you’ll want to a a volt meter to monitor voltage to tell you if it is charging correctly.

 

[rustred]

thanks everyone, if I go to a 1 wire where does the Main/big wire I’m hooking to the alternator where does it hook to the tractor? Can I just hook up the big wire and not remove the voltage regulator?

Send me your generator ! I need a few of them. There is all kinds of alt. Conversion diagrams if you look them up. Very simple to start from scratch. Tear off all that generator and reg. Wiring.

 

[UncleTom]

Years ago my starter/altenator guy , the best around bar none, no longer with us showed me the difference on tractor alternators and car alternators. Both were Delco. The car alternator had brushes that slid up and down in the brush holder. He showed me the diesel version. The brushes on a diesel are on a swing arm and will take the diesel vibration and the car style of brush holder will not in a short time.

 

[Jim.ME]

Years ago my starter/altenator guy , the best around bar none, no longer with us showed me the difference on tractor alternators and car alternators. Both were Delco. The car alternator had brushes that slid up and down in the brush holder. He showed me the diesel version. The brushes on a diesel are on a swing arm and will take the diesel vibration and the car style of brush holder will not in a short time.

I believe he may have showed you the difference between the 10DN, and 10SI series used on autos and equipment compared to generators and maybe a few of the larger alternator models used on heavy equipment and heavy trucks. The brush holders are the same (sliding) on any of the Delco types commonly used, when I check the parts breakdowns for tractors or cars.

I would be interested in seeing which alternators have swing arm brush holders.

 

[MeanGene1]

A couple other alternatives if you are not hopelessly GM- brainwashed, for a very strong charging system- the Ford 3G. Easy to find, easy to wire and very robust performance. One is a (Oh no! The sky is falling!) 1-wire setup, one is not. If you want to run big lights etc., could work for you. Note that the installations call for heavy guage wire and a big fuse- they put out a lot of power