50 LP won't stay running

[Rich'sToys]

Haven't used this tractor much in the last couple years, due mostly to waiting on parts, then finally getting them installed when they did arrive. But I did have it running on a nurse tank last fall and put it away for the winter

Yesterday when I went to get it out, it will only stay running when the starter button is pushed down. As soon as I let off on it, it dies.

Not sure exactly what is going on here. Wondering if it could be related somehow to that by-pass starting system that those had. Thoughts?

 

[Paul_IN]

The bypass power from the starter switch is working but not the regular ignition power. Could be the switch is not passing power or the ballast resistor is open or connections corroded. Shouldn’t be too hard to trace it out with a test light.

 

[matthies]

Turn the switch to have the lights on and see if it still runs. Have seen the switch with a bad internal connection and in the new position it would run.

 

[Pete in MD]

Turn the switch to have the lights on and see if it still runs. Have seen the switch with a bad internal connection and in the new position it would run.

Did you turn the ignition switch ON ?

 

[Rich'sToys]

Ignition switch was on, but never tried it in the lights-on position. I'll have to give that a try. I'll also try the test light, although it's nearly impossible to get at anything under there. Not sure what I'll do if I need to replace something. You can't just pull the fuel tank off like you would on a gas tractor. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[TheBartman47]

I'd bet the resistor is burnt out that connects between the switch and coil. The start button by passes this resistor in order to give the coil more power during startup since the starter will be dragging down the voltage a bit. I had to replace the resistor on my 730 about a year ago, exact same symptoms.

 

[Rich'sToys]

I suspected that resistor right from the beginning. But, in order to try the simple things first, I took matthies's suggestion and turned the switch to "lights on". Amazingly, it fired right up! I drove it around a bit, changed the oil, and drove it a little more. At some point, I turned the switch back to "ignition" and this time it worked! (It didn't at first-I tried it right after it started). Then the lights started working also, which they weren't in the beginning.

So for now I'll run it, but it looks like a new switch is in my future at some point. Not looking forward to that, because, as I had mentioned, there isn't a lot of room to work back there.

Where is a good place to get a switch? Are the ones that this place sells of good quality?

 

[TheBartman47]

Not looking forward to that, because, as I had mentioned, there isn't a lot of room to work back there.

Replacing the switch shouldn't be too difficult... unbolt the switch/gauges faceplate and pull forward, should then have all the room you need.

 

[Pete in MD]

Replacing the switch shouldn't be too difficult... unbolt the switch/gauges faceplate and pull forward, should then have all the room you need.

I agree with the Bartman.
Remember to disconnect the battery first.

 

[Rich'sToys]

I realize that's what I would need to do, but it's still plenty crowded. For one thing, the vapor & liquid valves overlap that area a little, making it difficult to pull that faceplate straight out. Plus, the hard line on the oil pressure gauge restricts how far you can pull it forward. I'll get it done if necessary, but just pointing out that it's not quite as easy as it seems.

 

[maqbill]

I realize that's what I would need to do, but it's still plenty crowded. For one thing, the vapor & liquid valves overlap that area a little, making it difficult to pull that faceplate straight out. Plus, the hard line on the oil pressure gauge restricts how far you can pull it forward. I'll get it done if necessary, but just pointing out that it's not quite as easy as it seems.

View attachment 151281

Nothing ever is.

 

[TheBartman47]

Yes, probably need to disconnect the oil pressure line so the face plate will move forward enough to get to the switch. Also, label all the wires or at least take a picture before disconnecting so you get them all plugged back in the righ positions.