Ford 1900 clutch issue

[cbrab]

I recently bought a Ford 1900 with the dual stage clutch. I should say I noticed the gears liked to grind when shifting, I thought it was just me getting used to having to idle down and wait a second before shifting and I'm still unsure if it was my error or something in the tractor. My second day using it I got it stuck plowing in the morning. I dug it out and parked it. That evening I went to start it up and I couldn't get it into gear, it would just grind. The clutch pedal had no resistance except for a bit at the last inch of travel before bottoming the pedal out. So I pulled it home and assumed I would have to split the tractor and fix something with the clutch. Then I started reading how often these clutches get stuck against the flywheel and thought I'd better do my best to figure out what's going on before splitting it.
Viewing through the peep hole on the side of the housing I can see the fork throwing the bearing forward but the throw hardly makes the release fingers on the pressure plate move (I can only see the side view of the pivoting point of the fingers) as though the fingers are already in the depressed position. Is it possible that the clutch froze to flywheel in such a short time period having used it earlier that day? Anything I should try to pry against through that hole or through the starter mount hole?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated before I open this thing up.

 

[showcrop]

It is not a function of time but rather weather conditions. If you have dew on your windshield conditions are right.

 

[cbrab]

Oh okay. I'd say the conditions were right I guess, bell housing had been sitting in damp soil when I got it stuck and it probably couldn't vent any moisture. But when it gets stuck its usually the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel right? Would that make sense that the release fingers would be stuck depressed? Also when I have the clutch pedal down, I should see a gap form between the flywheel and the clutch disc right?

 

[used red MN]

My second day using it I got it stuck plowing in the morning. I dug it out and parked it. That evening I went to start it up and I couldn't get it into gear, it would just grind. The clutch pedal had no resistance except for a bit at the last inch of travel before bottoming the pedal out.

Did you maybe slightly abuse the clutch trying to get the tractor unstuck? What can also happen is the clutch lining material when it gets old and brittle from heat, add to this it wears thin. It can form cracks in the lining mostly around the rivets that hold it to the center cushion/drive plate. Sometimes when additional stress is put on it sections of the lining break loose and sometimes stack two layers thick. When this happens the pressure plate doesn’t have enough stroke to release from the “stacked” lining. The stacked lining pieces hold the pressure plate in a partly released position such as you’re experiencing. Unfortunately if this is your problem you will need to split the tractor to replace the clutch.

 

[cbrab]

Hmm, that's possible. I don't think I stressed the clutch too hard other than spinning the wheels in the dirt in 4wd. But maybe that would have been enough. Apparently the clutch was replaced not too long ago but who knows if that's true or if he just wanted to sell it.

 

[cbrab]

Can you see a gap between the clutch and flywheel when it's free?

 

[Harry in Ky]

As I read it, your description of the problem indicates it's not a stuck clutch. For some reason the pedal travel isn't moving the pressure plate release levers far enough. As in too much free play? I would expect free play to be an inch to inch and half. Your description leads me to believe it's probably three or four inches. Yes/no? If yes, I'd address that before considering a split.

 

[cbrab]

Yes, the whole distance that the pedal can move is free with no resistance except for a bit of resistance at the last inch or so of travel but I think it's because either the clutch disc and or pressure plate is stuck forward. How would you suggest addressing that?
Thanks

 

[Harry in Ky]

Start with the external linkage. That's the common sense approach. Try tightening up the adjustment to see if you can reduce the free play. If you can't make that work, then maybe a split will be necessary. What you describe is certainly not a common "wear" item. Not knowing the history puts you at a disadvantage.

 

[showcrop]

Oh okay. I'd say the conditions were right I guess, bell housing had been sitting in damp soil when I got it stuck and it probably couldn't vent any moisture. But when it gets stuck its usually the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel right? Would that make sense that the release fingers would be stuck depressed? Also when I have the clutch pedal down, I should see a gap form between the flywheel and the clutch disc right?

There will be no gap when the disc is rusted to the flywheel.

 

[cbrab]

I've already adjusted it as much as possible and still nothing. I'm hoping I can free it up driving it around and stomping the brakes

 

[cbrab]

There will be no gap when the disc is rusted to the flywheel.

That's what I thought and I'm not seeing any gap. Thanks

 

[used red MN]

That's what I thought and I'm not seeing any gap. Thanks

Turn the engine a complete revolution and see if it maintains the close contact all the way around.

 

[cbrab]

I

Turn the engine a complete revolution and see if it maintains the close contact all the way around.

I did. It seems to

 

[Jim.ME]

Do you have a manual for your tractor that gives the clutch adjustment procedure? I would start with a by the book adjustment to rule out a slipped or otherwise compromised adjustment.

 

[cbrab]

Do you have a manual for your tractor that gives the clutch adjustment procedure? I would start with a by the book adjustment to rule out a slipped or otherwise compromised adjustment.

I do. I saw that the pto clutch can be adjusted through that hole and of course the pedal linkage l. Not sure if I saw any other adjustments for it.

 

[Jim.ME]

I do. I saw that the pto clutch can be adjusted through that hole and of course the pedal linkage l. Not sure if I saw any other adjustments for it.

Did you go through the steps of the pedal adjustment to see that your pedal is adjusted correctly and that nothing has slipped?

If things are correct on the external adjustments it sounds to me like you will need to split the tractor to access the clutch to find the problem. As used red MN posted, release fingers stuck depressed, sounds to me like a piled-up clutch disc, not one stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate.

 

[cbrab]

So I split the tractor today and the first thing I'm wondering is how far that throw out bearing should travel when the clutch pedal is depressed? It doesn't seem to move too far, I'll get a measurement tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll take off the pressure plate and check it out. Any tips for testing the pressure plate to see if it's functioning properly and adjusted right?
Chris

 

[cbrab]

I took off the pressure plate today and it seems fine. Looks like the problem is that for some reason the throw out bearing isnt traveling out far enough to even reach the pressure plate release levers. Maybe in fact the clutch was replaced before I bought it and whoever did the job put a wrong coupling or something on it (maybe put a part on for a single stage clutch??) and the distances are all messed up? Or possibly put a different pedal linkage piece on for some reason that is too long? When I take off the pedal link piece I can move with my hand the lever that it attached to and get the bearing to travel all the way to the end of the smooth part of the shaft. Is the bearing supposed to go flush to the end of that smooth part of the shaft? Also what's the best way to remove that bearing and coupling?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm a little confused at this point.

 

[Vito]

Does the pedal like have 2 holes? Mine did on my 961.

Vito