Belt pulley reseal. Making a temporary block off plate. (Farmall Super M )

[mike1972chev]

(I think this is pretty straight forward, but want to get any input/details I might need.) The seal that is right behind the paper pulley is dripping gear grease, and I am going to reseal it. My plan is to just remove the three bolt cover , and pull the outer shaft ONLY, and to not remove the entire assembly from the gear case. I am going to make a temporary 3 bolt cover to go over the opening so as to have a bit of time to press the gear, and bearings off of it ,as I think I might also have a bad bearing ??? (Feels a bit rough when I am rolling it over by hand..)

Would there be any issues with just removing the belt pully shaft ONLY , and capping it off where I have it circled in RED , and running the tractor untill I get a new bearing, and seal on it and reinstalled ???

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

(I think this is pretty straight forward, but want to get any input/details I might need.) The seal that is right behind the paper pulley is dripping gear grease, and I am going to reseal it. My plan is to just remove the three bolt cover , and pull the outer shaft ONLY, and to not remove the entire assembly from the gear case. I am going to make a temporary 3 bolt cover to go over the opening so as to have a bit of time to press the gear, and bearings off of it ,as I think I might also have a bad bearing ??? (Feels a bit rough when I am rolling it over by hand..)

Would there be any issues with just removing the belt pully shaft ONLY , and capping it off where I have it circled in RED , and running the tractor untill I get a new bearing, and seal on it and reinstalled ???

Shouldn't be any issue with capping it off. Keep your shims (26 - 28) in the same order you took them off. Look into getting a NOS replacement bearing cage (39). It'll have a new O-ring & oil seal on it & can usually be had for far less than either of those parts.

What indicator tells you the bearing is bad?

Mike

 

[mike1972chev]

Shouldn't be any issue with capping it off. Keep your shims (26 - 28) in the same order you took them off. Look into getting a NOS replacement bearing cage (39). It'll have a new O-ring & oil seal on it & can usually be had for far less than either of those parts.

What indicator tells you the bearing is bad?

Mike

When I am "free rolling" the paper pulley by hand, it is making a distinct grinding noise , and feels VERY rough when turning it but is not binding up, and turns easily. (You can feel a rough bearing like a ball, ot race is bad..) Also, with the 90 wt leaking, so it has to come apart anyway to reseal it. We will see what the bearings look like when I pull it apart.

 

[SinkholeRoad]

Mike,
More than likely the bearings will be in bad shape. If you haven’t serviced the flat belt shaft before, it is one of those jobs where you have to press off bearings in order to get at the seal. So hopefully you have, or have access to a press.

 

[mike1972chev]

Mike,
More than likely the bearings will be in bad shape. If you haven’t serviced the flat belt shaft before, it is one of those jobs where you have to press off bearings in order to get at the seal. So hopefully you have, or have access to a press.

Yea, I have a 20 ton press, and a bearing seperator for sure. I watched a great video on Youtube about a COMPLETE rebuild, but like i have said, I am NOT doing the complete assembly at this time, just the output shaft seal. (I TRULY doubt if I really ever use that flat belt pulley for anything in my lifetime? ) I know those bearings can be a bit "pricey" . If I can get away with replacing those two bearings,and mainly the seal to keep my new 90 wt in I am also going to replace, I will call it good for now. If I EVER make it to the 100% repaint of this tractor, I will be taking about 85% of it apart in that process, and would be more likely to pull the complete belt pulley drive off of it then, and look it over. (I just use this tractor WAY TOO much to make it look "parade ready" at this time. lol )