Tail Fork Rotary Mower.

[cajee1963]

This wheel drags as much as rolls. My guess is the extra space between the fork shaft and the tube its in. So the question I have is, does this need a bushing? If so who sells them. This is the first time I've looked inside one of these, I really expected bearings......

 

[Jim.ME]

Is it that the wheel yoke does not swivel to align the wheel with direction of travel, or that the wheel yoke aligns with travel direction, but the wheel itself does not roll?

Bushings, not bearings are common on tail wheels from what I have seen. If you know the brand and model you might find a parts list and get part numbers for bushings to search with. Otherwise, you will need to measure the bore and shaft for OD and ID, length as you see fit, it may have a shoulder bore for a bushing to give you an idea of length needed, be it for the yoke shaft or the wheel.

I would pick the mower up, drop the shaft out, put a well-greased flat washer between the top of the fork and the arm, reinstall the shaft in the arm with the flat washer and keeper pin to hold it in place. Then pump the grease into it until it is coming out at the top and bottom and try it. The flat washer between the yoke and arm will reduce surface area to drag. Grease regularly, it looks pretty dry for a free swiveling yoke. If the wheel shaft/bolt is as dry as the yoke shaft looks, I suggest lift the cutter up, so the weight is off the wheel and grease it until you see grease coming out both sides while spinning the wheel.

 

[cajee1963]

Is it that the wheel yoke does not swivel to align the wheel with direction of travel, or that the wheel yoke aligns with travel direction, but the wheel itself does not roll?

Bushings, not bearings are common on tail wheels from what I have seen. If you know the brand and model you might find a parts list and get part numbers for bushings to search with. Otherwise, you will need to measure the bore and shaft for OD and ID, length as you see fit, it may have a shoulder bore for a bushing to give you an idea of length needed, be it for the yoke shaft or the wheel.

I would pick the mower up, drop the shaft out, put a well-greased flat washer between the top of the fork and the arm, reinstall the shaft in the arm with the flat washer and keeper pin to hold it in place. Then pump the grease into it until it is coming out at the top and bottom and try it. The flat washer between the yoke and arm will reduce surface area to drag. Grease regularly, it looks pretty dry for a free swiveling yoke. If the wheel shaft/bolt is as dry as the yoke shaft looks, I suggest lift the cutter up, so the weight is off the wheel and grease it until you see grease coming out both sides while spinning the wheel.

Thank you for the response.
The wheel itself spins freely on the ground. Direction of travel is the issue. The manufacturer and model # are not going to be available. I had thought of a sealed thrust bearing at the bottom of the tube and filling it with grease but was worried about the play at the top. But I will fill the tube with grease and see what happens. thanks again.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you for the response.
The wheel itself spins freely on the ground. Direction of travel is the issue. The manufacturer and model # are not going to be available. I had thought of a sealed thrust bearing at the bottom of the tube and filling it with grease but was worried about the play at the top. But I will fill the tube with grease and see what happens. thanks again.

My thought is they don't use sealed thrust bearings as they would be shortly destroyed as the tail wheel often gets pounded from loading and unloading on rough ground, which would break a bearing up.

 

[trackrat]

All you can do is grease the heck out of it

 

[Ray,IN]

Apparently it's never been greased. Even the top, thick washer and cotter key is missing.

 

[RobCons]

Grease it and run it. Grease it often. Drop the whole assembly out and see if the shaft is worn. I have seen them wore half way through.

 

[a49deere]

Apparently it's never been greased. Even the top, thick washer and cotter key is missing.

they on the wheel support to the right! But I do not see a grease gun in sight!

 

[a49deere]

View attachment 151545
This wheel drags as much as rolls. My guess is the extra space between the fork shaft and the tube its in. So the question I have is, does this need a bushing? If so who sells them. This is the first time I've looked inside one of these, I really expected bearings......

That little nipple looking thing is where you put the grease gun!

 

[PJH]

View attachment 151545
This wheel drags as much as rolls. My guess is the extra space between the fork shaft and the tube its in. So the question I have is, does this need a bushing? If so who sells them. This is the first time I've looked inside one of these, I really expected bearings......

You have to pump the grease to them until it's dribbling everywhere.

Here's a tailwheel that I made for my son's mower. It uses a hub and spindle from a '68 Ford pickup. Never needs greasing and spins freely.

 

[Ray,IN]

I forgot; replacement bushings, etc are sold by the mfgr. If you know the brand and model, go inquire at Rural King, Tractor Supply, or other farm supply stores or dealers.
For right now, apply an oil penetrant to the shaft to get it loose enough to remove. Clean off most of the rust, and make sure the zerk fitting accepts grease before reassembling.
I normally grease that tail wheel every day i use the rotary mower, sure it's messy, but farm equipment is expensive.