1950-51 8N whim purchase **OH BOY! IM IN TROUBLE**

[8nTroubleMan]

Long story short.. I own 5 acres with 2 driveways, one being in a forsted part of the property... I just needed a simple 3 point tractor, but finacally buying the property has put me behind.... Dont worry I had the genious idea of getting a 1952 Ford 8n! I've been shopping for tractors for about a year...last weekend this one popped up and the seller was close to me and ready to negotiate.... well boy o boy as a guy that buys cars and motorcycles all the time the excitement got to me and I over looked ALOT of red flags... The owner started it and ran it up and down his driveway for me, but i failed to catch the small things.... So I give him $1500 and get it loaded onto my trailer... I get it home and it runs TERRIBLE and wont stay running... I started by ordering a new tank and running compression tests on cyclinders dry and cold engine. Avarage was 98 PSI, cyl 1 93.9, cyl 2 92.6, cyl3 101.9, and cyl 4 102.3psi... I didnt want to throw money on this tractor if the engine was roached... So far I'm all in $1,769.... I just need a miricle to get her going... I just need to use her twice a year to grade out the driveway and some other random part of the property...follow along with me as I try to get her to run good...and not get divorced in the process....

Negatve (so far)

• RUST in gas tank BAD...
• PTO leaking from PTO SEAL
• Fouled carb from running with ruseted gas
• low trans fluid due to leak at PTO shaft

Positive

• new distribturor
• front distributor
• clean overall tractor
• decent tires
• nice blade
• good radiator no leaks
• new guagues
• new battery
• new rotor, wires

New Parts by me

• $115 Gas tank new
• $29 carb
• $15 debrs bowl
• $98 PTO new PTO shaft wth 1 3/8 upgrade
• $12 new plugs

 

[8nTroubleMan]

 

[boler76]

get an IT manual and set everythuing to specs and rebuild the original carb

 

[8nTroubleMan]

get an IT manual and set everythuing to specs and rebuild the original carb

I have a shop manual "orignal" carb is roached...beyond repair...

 

[markdtn]

Compression numbers don't seem that bad. Sounds like tank, valve, and new fuel line is a start-get clean reliable fuel to the carb. Probably should rebuild the original carb, the aftermarkets are not held in high regard.

What is beyond repair on the original carb?

 

[8nTroubleMan]

Compression numbers don't seem that bad. Sounds like tank, valve, and new fuel line is a start-get clean reliable fuel to the carb. Probably should rebuild the original carb, the aftermarkets are not held in high regard.

What is beyond repair on the original carb?

first i doubt its an real ford original carb....it just sized and rusted... i tried taking it appart and stripped everything on it... so i had the "orignal" carb in a box of random parts the guy gave me and nother carb that was on the tractr and now i got a amazon freshie and i yes i understand OEM is always better but here we are...

 

[8nTroubleMan]

here is the other carb it came with no markiing to identify age...

 

[Kondoge]

Have you checked valve operation? There should be two covers under the manifold that you can remove to see. 100psi is still good compression for those engines, trust me these are good tractors sometimes it takes a dream of figuring out what’s wrong to actually figure it out but it’s worth it in the end.

 

[soaked]

Hi 8nTroubleMan,
Welcome!!
If it says 8N-B in the raised casting behind the starter, the engine a sidemount 50-51.
8N -C came out at the end of 51 and ran till the end of 8n production. But that distinction wont matter much...

The spare carb looks like an aluminum clone, and is very similar to one that came on a 8n I bought back in 2019.
( no crush washer on the drain plug, 4 equal lenght filister head bowl screws, brass, not plastic floats )

Mine idled fine, then leaned out to much in the middle to upper rpm range. Surged, and hesitated. Replaced the .076 economizer jet with a .046 9n9914 jet. It runs very nice with the new jet.
Spares are GOOD!

 

[8nTroubleMan]

Hi 8nTroubleMan,
Welcome!!
If it says 8N-B in the raised casting behind the starter, the engine a sidemount 50-51.
8N -C came out at the end of 51 and ran till the end of 8n production. But that distinction wont matter much...

The spare carb looks like an aluminum clone, and is very similar to one that came on a 8n I bought back in 2019.
( no crush washer on the drain plug, 4 equal lenght filister head bowl screws, brass, not plastic floats )

Mine idled fine, then leaned out to much in the middle to upper rpm range. Surged, and hesitated. Replaced the .076 economizer jet with a .046 9n9914 jet. It runs very nice with the new jet.
Spares are GOOD!

'

Thanks! there ya go the serial is partialy rusted so i can make out one number and the start but the 8N-B...apprecate the help...

 

[R Geiger]

It will be a nice running tractor, I got a late 50 and what I think is a 52. I changed both of mine to 12 volts. had problems with voltage regulators. I would not run a 8N with the knob on the steering wheel. works good until you hit a rock or something. I love one on my Kabuto with power steering, but not on my N's. compression could be better but with usage it may get better. Watch for plugs oil fouling. the serial number is on the left side of engine just below the head. the 8N-b is the casting number for the block. Have fun with it!!

 

[HarryVanderpool]

You are going to love this tractor!
It is extremely easy to repair and maintain.
The price wasn't too bad.
Here is the best advice I can give you:
Take a systematic approach to repairs.
Start with the static repairs first. The ones that don't involve the tractor running:
1) fix the tank, leaks and tank
2) Install points, plugs, rotor & cap.
3) set the valves.
4) drain and fill transmission fluid.
5) Change motor oil and filter.
6) After installing tank, clean all 3 fuel filters.
7) Flush the fuel by dropping the carb drain.
8) Check battery. Replace if necessary.
9) Check coolant

Now it's time to run the tractor.
Fire up, adjust carb. Drive around for a while.
Now, check compression again.
Let us know the results.

P.S. Ignore those suggesting you convert to 12 volts. TOTALLY unnecessary!!

 

[8nTroubleMan]

It will be a nice running tractor, I got a late 50 and what I think is a 52. I changed both of mine to 12 volts. had problems with voltage regulators. I would not run a 8N with the knob on the steering wheel. works good until you hit a rock or something. I love one on my Kabuto with power steering, but not on my N's. compression could be better but with usage it may get better. Watch for plugs oil fouling. the serial number is on the left side of engine just below the head. the 8N-b is the casting number for the block. Have fun with it!!

cyclynder 3 has a tendency to

You are going to love this tractor!
It is extremely easy to repair and maintain.
The price wasn't too bad.
Here is the best advice I can give you:
Take a systematic approach to repairs.
Start with the static repairs first. The ones that don't involve the tractor running:
1) fix the tank, leaks and tank
2) Install points, plugs, rotor & cap.
3) set the valves.
4) drain and fill transmission fluid.
5) Change motor oil and filter.
6) After installing tank, clean all 3 fuel filters.
7) Flush the fuel by dropping the carb drain.
8) Check battery. Replace if necessary.
9) Check coolant

Now it's time to run the tractor.
Fire up, adjust carb. Drive around for a while.
Now, check compression again.
Let us know the results.

P.S. Ignore those suggesting you convert to 12 volts. TOTALLY unnecessary!!

these are all GREAT points,



It is extremely easy to repair and maintain. -- I loved that and parts are cheap, I wanted a Kubota Diesel but I knew it woudlnt be $1500
The price wasn't too bad. -- He wanted 1750 and if wasnt excited I could have got him, I buy and sell cars from auction all the time, but first tractor

1) fix the tank, leaks and tank -- New tank on order, not wasting time refinihsing the original.
2) Install points, plugs, rotor & cap. -- spark is strong I havent messed much with timing but I've had a ton of 4.3 vortec engines and know how to set timing. Plus tons of cap rotor vehicles
3) set the valves. -- this im a little intimidated, but my understanding is most need it, I'm in the time looking into more info
4) drain and fill transmission fluid. no doubt, trans is low and slightly milky from condensation...how do we feel about Super Tech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid from walmart?
5) Change motor oil and filter. -- 100%
6) After installing tank, clean all 3 fuel filters. -- I have a new debrs bowl, and new tank, and filter in carb is clean
7) Flush the fuel by dropping the carb drain. -- already done new carb hasnt been ran
8) Check battery. Replace if necessary. -- new battery
9) Check coolant --- coolant is perfect i also chcekdd radiator because they are expensivve before purchase...

 

[markdtn]

Point 1. If I did a new tank I would do a new valve and hardline to the carb with it. Then it's all new to the carb, no rust to worry about.

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi TroubleMan, welcome to the forum. I'm coming in a little late, but from reading your original post, you said the seller ran it up and down his driveway and I'm guessing it ran fine. Then after bouncing around on your tractor it ran bad. I think you will find that once you get the fuel system all cleaned up and get a good carburetor on it, you'll be in the clover.
The trans/hydraulic oil from Walmart will be okay as long as it meets Ford 134D spec.
Have fun.

 

[docmirror]

That list is a very good start. I think if you get those items done, you're going to have a good running 8N. I started with an 8N about 1952, and my worst issue was dist bushings were shot and the timing and gap was all over the place. Since you have a new one, that shouldn't be a problem. After you get that basic stuff done, do some scraping with the blade, and get some torque load on the engine. I bet the compression will get better. You have tires that are worth near $1000 alone. If the clutch is good it'll be a nice tool for a while. Don't change to 12V, just keep a good batt, and make sure your reg is adjusted correctly. VRegs do go bad sometimes.

Edit to add; If you are going to use a PTO drive, by all means - get an overrunning clutch for the PTO. A must for safety and ease of use.

 

[Jim in LA]

Is it 6V or 12 V? I would try to keep the generator system as long as possible. Looks like it has good tires and sheet metal and new gauges.

 

[8nTroubleMan]

Is it 6V or 12 V? I would try to keep the generator system as long as possible. Looks like it has good tires and sheet metal and new gauges.

6v has not been converted

 

[8nTroubleMan]

some updates... this is the manual that came with the tractor... I found this hydrlic fluid at Costal, and my tank is here!

 

[Ultradog MN]

View attachment 152056View attachment 152057

I can't see the right rear tire from here but if it matches the one I can see and you only paid $1500 for that tractor I would say you got a better than average deal.
This is an excellent forum and the fellows here are very knowledgeable about those tractors so if you pay attention to what they tell you to do you'll be fine.