Farmall 400 diesel

Nebraska Kirk

Well-known Member
I took the engine out of the 400 diesel that I brought home recently and have been working on disassembling it. All the sheet metal is missing as well as the head, manifolds, & oil pan off the engine. Looks like someone started taking it apart to fix it and I think I found out what happened. The rod caps on #1 & #4 were removed and are AWOL as well. The crankshaft is in a position where it is impossible to remove all the bolts from the center 2 rod caps. I took all the main caps off and tried to rotate the crank up and out enough to access the rod bolts but the crank would not budge. I cut the #3 rod and then was able to remove the bolts from #2 and pull the crank. Someone had been into this engine before and put the #3 rod cap on BACKWARDS! That rod bearing had spun and locked up solid. I found the bearing shells broken and spun up on top of each other! This is why it is CRITICAL to get the rod caps on the correct direction! The rod & cap are noticeably misaligned when the cap is on backwards!
 

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I plan on it. I have a complete MD engine to use for parts for this one and a second complete 400D with a stuck engine. Plus I have a full set of good used pistons, rings & rods and 2 good used sleeves that will fit the 400D. I am hoping I can salvage a couple sleeves out of this engine and that the crankshaft & bearings in the MD engine are still good. I am going to try and take the MD engine apart tomorrow and find out.
 
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I plan on it. I have a complete MD engine to use for parts for this one and a second complete 400D with a stuck engine. Plus I have a full set of good used pistons, rings & rods and 2 good used sleeves that will fit the 400D. I am hoping I can salvage a couple sleeves out of this engine and that the crankshaft & bearings in the MD engine are still good. I am going to try and take the MD engine apart tomorrow and find out.
Looks you and I both have are hands full with these old diesels .
 
I plan on it. I have a complete MD engine to use for parts for this one and a second complete 400D with a stuck engine. Plus I have a full set of good used pistons, rings & rods and 2 good used sleeves that will fit the 400D. I am hoping I can salvage a couple sleeves out of this engine and that the crankshaft & bearings in the MD engine are still good. I am going to try and take the MD engine apart tomorrow and find out.
Some of the MD used a 3-piece thrust bearing or 6 pieces if both halves counted instead of two halves on the 400-D. Memory is fading but seem to remember there was a way to use the MD crank with 2-piece bearings. Some MD used the same bearings as a 400. Think it was in the fifties before the MD went to the same bearing. Does the 400D have a rope seal or the neoprene seal? Last I knew the last seal is hard or not to be found. 400D used both. seal holders for the later seals are cast iron. and crankshafts have no spiral groves where seal runs. Then the kicker is IH made kits to use the later seal type on early engines, seals and seal holders and bolts included. But unless changed the seals not available anymore but the rope seals are. If the changeover was done the sharp edges of groves were supposed to be smoothed off. Then if a need to go back to rope you have to hope it doesn't leak. Rope seals used the same material holders as a M gas. In fact, one half is the same. Not trying to discourage you, just some things you could run into. Would need to look to be sure. Several changes were made to MD engines at serial 14500 or 14501 and think maybe that is when a single upper and lower thrust bearing started.
 
D-slater, thank you for the info! This 400D does have the neoprene rear main seal. I will have to check it over closely, it may be ok to reuse.
 
While 450s had a white grill from the factory, many 400s were repainted with the 450 color scheme. My other 400D has a white grill too.

I figured it’s a 400 mainly from the 1955 casting date codes. 450 came out in 1956
 

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Quick question ,is it a 400 or 450 because it has a white grille?
FWIW, lot of the hundred series tractors were repainted to look like the fifty series. Reason was, from a distance it looked like you had the newer model (50 series) because they looked identical. Cheap and easy way to make those tractors look fancier (and the farmer richer) from a distance.

Like Nebraska Kirk said the hood emblems, casting codes, and serial numbers are ways you can tell. The other dead giveaway is to look at the dash. 00 series has a STOP-RUN- START key on the dash, while 50 series has a ON-OFF key below the dash with a push button on the dash for starting.

Hope this helps you!
 
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