Allis Chalmers road grader

[old]

Unfortunately no tag on the pumpkin. Thought I saw something else on the frame, will clean it off next weekend. As far as the Magneto goes, The bottom screw was grounded to frame so going to take it apart and see if a bad wire or something. Will keep you all posted. Thanks

There is no tag it is stamped into a flat spot on the rear end that many times need a good careful cleaning to be able to read

 

[old]

Unfortunately no tag on the pumpkin. Thought I saw something else on the frame, will clean it off next weekend. As far as the Magneto goes, The bottom screw was grounded to frame so going to take it apart and see if a bad wire or something. Will keep you all posted. Thanks

There is no tag it is stamped into a flat spot on the rear end that many times need a good careful cleaning to be able to read

 

[Jim.ME]

Unfortunately no tag on the pumpkin. Thought I saw something else on the frame, will clean it off next weekend. As far as the Magneto goes, The bottom screw was grounded to frame so going to take it apart and see if a bad wire or something. Will keep you all posted. Thanks

Wire brush the area under Tractor No. As old posted there was no tag used, they hand stamped the serial number in that flat area.

 

[nhanssen]

Anyone know what size capacitor this is? It is a FMJ, which I didn’t find exactly that on here for parts. Thanks

 

[rustred]

Anyone know what size capacitor this is? It is a FMJ, which I didn’t find exactly that on here for parts. Thanks

That mag is a mess. How do I know it’s the condenser ? Have u cleaned the points with emery and brake clean or even a point file ! Then check the gap. 1 also see that coil connection is dirty and corroded , u have not cleaned that either. Do the obvious first. Not start changing parts without a clue on what’s wrong. Plus too many just throw out ideas on here also. So it’s like the blind leading the blind. That mag has had a lot of moisture in it.

 

[nhanssen]

The tractor's serial number should be on the raised flat area directly in front of the seat pedestal. It will start with WCxxxxx. From the looks of it you are correct in the only way to stop the engine at the current moment is with the choke. On the magneto there should be a metal stud with either a wire that goes to a kill switch or a brass tab connected to it, to ground out and kill the engine, I see neither, unless the tab is under all the caked-on oil that is on the magneto. As already mentioned, your points probably need cleaned to get spark again. The points are located in the magneto, just under the plastic cover. Make sure to retime the gears/make sure the rotor is exactly in the same place it was before when you put the cover back on, or you will still have bad or no spark. I also would be interested in the road grader if the tires do indeed hold air and it can make a trip to Lincoln as I do not have a trailer large enough to haul it.

My dad got the magneto all cleaned up. We were concerned about the old capacitor if we should just change that out while we have it out of the tractor? Wasn’t sure how we could test it on the bench? Let me know if you’re interested in it, or want to come take a look. Thanks

 

[nhanssen]

That mag is a mess. How do I know it’s the condenser ? Have u cleaned the points with emery and brake clean or even a point file ! Then check the gap. 1 also see that coil connection is dirty and corroded , u have not cleaned that either. Do the obvious first. Not start changing parts without a clue on what’s wrong. Plus too many just throw out ideas on here also. So it’s like the blind leading the blind. That mag has had a lot of moisture

That mag is a mess. How do I know it’s the condenser ? Have u cleaned the points with emery and brake clean or even a point file ! Then check the gap. 1 also see that coil connection is dirty and corroded , u have not cleaned that either. Do the obvious first. Not start changing parts without a clue on what’s wrong. Plus too many just throw out ideas on here also. So it’s like the blind leading the blind. That mag has had a lot of moisture in it.

 

[nhanssen]

Point file used on blue circle. Red x wire had a bad spot for the kill switch so it has been disconnected.

 

[rustred]

My dad got the magneto all cleaned up. We were concerned about the old capacitor if we should just change that out while we have it out of the tractor? Wasn’t sure how we could test it on the bench? Let me know if you’re interested in it, or want to come take a look. Thanks

Have u checked it for spark now once cleaned up. ? Long as u get it timed correctly. You’re too far away or I would be interested. I am in central Alberta. And if I was taking it, it would be as it sits. No fooling around with it. Most of my tractors I buy non running. Hope she runs for u now.

 

[nhanssen]

Have u checked it for spark now once cleaned up. ? Long as u get it timed correctly. You’re too far away or I would be interested. I am in central Alberta. And if I was taking it, it would be as it sits. No fooling around with it. Most of my tractors I buy non running. Hope she runs for u now.

Hope to find out tmrw! Thanks

 

[nhanssen]

Tires are still holding. She runs and is ready to go!!! Thanks guys!

 

[nhanssen]

The tractor's serial number should be on the raised flat area directly in front of the seat pedestal. It will start with WCxxxxx. From the looks of it you are correct in the only way to stop the engine at the current moment is with the choke. On the magneto there should be a metal stud with either a wire that goes to a kill switch or a brass tab connected to it, to ground out and kill the engine, I see neither, unless the tab is under all the caked-on oil that is on the magneto. As already mentioned, your points probably need cleaned to get spark again. The points are located in the magneto, just under the plastic cover. Make sure to retime the gears/make sure the rotor is exactly in the same place it was before when you put the cover back on, or you will still have bad or no spark. I also would be interested in the road grader if the tires do indeed hold air and it can make a trip to Lincoln as I do not have a trailer large enough to haul it.

Were you interested in it?

 

[nhanssen]

The tractor's serial number should be on the raised flat area directly in front of the seat pedestal. It will start with WCxxxxx. From the looks of it you are correct in the only way to stop the engine at the current moment is with the choke. On the magneto there should be a metal stud with either a wire that goes to a kill switch or a brass tab connected to it, to ground out and kill the engine, I see neither, unless the tab is under all the caked-on oil that is on the magneto. As already mentioned, your points probably need cleaned to get spark again. The points are located in the magneto, just under the plastic cover. Make sure to retime the gears/make sure the rotor is exactly in the same place it was before when you put the cover back on, or you will still have bad or no spark. I also would be interested in the road grader if the tires do indeed hold air and it can make a trip to Lincoln as I do not have a trailer large enough to haul it.

It’s ready if your interested?

 

[wfelt]

I just rebuilt the engine on a Model D Grader SN: 3252. Now I need to rebuild the Hydraulic controls. Does anyone know how to find o-rings and gaskets for them? I can't find any of them using the Allis-Chalmers part numbers.

 

[Rich'sToys]

I just rebuilt the engine on a Model D Grader SN: 3252. Now I need to rebuild the Hydraulic controls. Does anyone know how to find o-rings and gaskets for them? I can't find any of them using the Allis-Chalmers part numbers.

You should probably start a new thread with your question. This one is over 7 months old.

 

[4wdtom]

I just rebuilt the engine on a Model D Grader SN: 3252. Now I need to rebuild the Hydraulic controls. Does anyone know how to find o-rings and gaskets for them? I can't find any of them using the Allis-Chalmers part numbers.

If NAPA or some other auto parts store doesn't have them, possibly a hydraulic shop if you have one in the area. McMaster Carr will likely have them, they have everything, however you will have to figure out what size you need and likely have to buy 100 of them. Maybe not so bad if you only need a couple of sizes, but costly if you need several sizes and only a few of each size.

 

[wfelt]

Thanks, I forgot about McMaster-Carr.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks, I forgot about McMaster-Carr.

Baum Hydraulics would be another place to check. They have a large selection and will sell by the piece as far as I know, I have purchased cylinder packing kits from them. If you can identify the valves (Gresen, Cross, Parker, etc.) they may have some info on the sealing parts for them.

For the gaskets, I expect you will need to make your own. You should be able to get the right type of gasket material(s) by matching up pieces of the old gaskets with what your local auto parts stores have. Most have or can get small rolls of different materials.