T20 fergie,hard steering

For your tractor transmission and rear end look for a Universal Transmission Hydraulic Fluid (UTHF).

You are in Nova Scotia, is that right? Irving blending is one that has a UTHF, they call it Tractor Hydraulic high-performance fluid. I expect there are a number of others available to you as well.
 
For your tractor transmission and rear end look for a Universal Transmission Hydraulic Fluid (UTHF).

You are in Nova Scotia, is that right? Irving blending is one that has a UTHF, they call it Tractor Hydraulic high-performance fluid. I expect there are a number of others available to you as well.
I have that also 21 liter can. But the reason I wanted to ask here,some people say 15 40. They say that there are copper parts in those rearend that hy/ Trans oil will ruin.
I thought I would ask here to be sure. I believe you guys know more about these tractors. Thanks
 
I can get 21 liters of synthetic blend 15 40. Can I use this in My tractor reared. I can get it for $80
Before you go crazy and start adding new engine OIL,think about pulling / removing the Engine "OIL PUMP INLET SCRREN" Item # 5
Then clean the inner bottom of the engine oil Pan..........
Bob....
 

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Before you go crazy and start adding new engine OIL,think about pulling / removing the Engine "OIL PUMP INLET SCRREN" Item # 5
Then clean the inner bottom of the engine oil Pan..........
Bob....
Ohh. That's that round plate on side of the oil pan,on rt hand side sitting on tractor? I was wondering what that was for. I see some have that on the bottom of the oil pan. Is it a difficult job?
 
Ohh. That's that round plate on side of the oil pan,on rt hand side sitting on tractor? I was wondering what that was for. I see some have that on the bottom of the oil pan. Is it a difficult job?
The motor oil is clean as new. Should I still inspect that oil filter/ plate.
 
Ohh. That's that round plate on side of the oil pan,on rt hand side sitting on tractor? I was wondering what that was for. I see some have that on the bottom of the oil pan. Is it a difficult job?
Nothing to it......Easy Job to remove and replace.......
 
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It also has an oil filter canister on the other side on the engine block. So I need to check/ replace both?
I have always installed a new Engine OIL FIlTER each time the Engine OIL is Changed.

Did "YOU" add the new Engine OIL or did someone else?
If you cahnged the engine oil,then YES replace the engine oil filter.
Bob....
 
I have always installed a new Engine OIL FIlTER each time the Engine OIL is Changed.

Did "YOU" add the new Engine OIL or did someone else?
If you cahnged the engine oil,then YES replace the engine oil filter.
Bob....
It was new oil in it when I got it a couple weeks ago.
 
I don't recognize the brand of alternator, and it's certainly not an elegant installation. I can't see where the wires terminate - is there an external regulator? There needs to be a connection to the battery + terminal via some route. I don't know a lot about the English Fergusons, I'm aware that some were 12v from the factory and some were 6v. If this is a 6v -> 12v conversion there needs to be either an internally regulated ('one wire') alternator or a 12v external regulator in place of the original 6v regulator. You need a volt meter (cheap multimeters are available, ebay/amazon/wherever) to do much sleuthing. I've got a friend with a TO-20 without a functioning charging system who just charges the battery every so often and keeps right on using it. That would drive me nuts, but it works for him.

Many owners use 'corn head grease' in the steering box as it will not leak out the seals like even heavy oils. Available from John Deere and elsewhere I'm sure.
Im in the middle of a steering R&R, all I can say is uggh. If you have ever done this you know what I mean, so many parts have to be removed and reinstalled it is unbelievable. I did a tractor split on this TO 30 that was easier and less messy. Anyway, back to my question, I've not heard of corn head grease b4 and am willing to try any 'better way' plus I cant find replacement seals at the steering arms nor lower housing gasket, how much do you think would be a good amount to apply or am I just doing a good slather around the bearings and gears?
 
Im in the middle of a steering R&R, all I can say is uggh. If you have ever done this you know what I mean, so many parts have to be removed and reinstalled it is unbelievable. I did a tractor split on this TO 30 that was easier and less messy. Anyway, back to my question, I've not heard of corn head grease b4 and am willing to try any 'better way' plus I cant find replacement seals at the steering arms nor lower housing gasket, how much do you think would be a good amount to apply or am I just doing a good slather around the bearings and gears?
I have never heard of that grease either.
I just use grease mixed with oil,and squirt it in the steering box. Make it pretty heavy
 
Im in the middle of a steering R&R, all I can say is uggh. If you have ever done this you know what I mean, so many parts have to be removed and reinstalled it is unbelievable. I did a tractor split on this TO 30 that was easier and less messy. Anyway, back to my question, I've not heard of corn head grease b4 and am willing to try any 'better way' plus I cant find replacement seals at the steering arms nor lower housing gasket, how much do you think would be a good amount to apply or am I just doing a good slather around the bearings and gears?
Enter Oil Seal 195761M1 on the Internet.........(Several suppliers)

Seal same for tractors T020 T030 TE20 TEA20 etc..

Oil Seal Dimensions 1-5/16 X 1-7/8 X 7/16"

Take a look at the steering Arm.....Grinder removed Casting Knob...
Makes for easier seal installation..
Picture credits to Charles in Aus.........


Bob...Daily runner of a 1951 TEA20 Harry Ferguson and several TEA20 Parts Tractors..
 

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Im in the middle of a steering R&R, all I can say is uggh. If you have ever done this you know what I mean, so many parts have to be removed and reinstalled it is unbelievable. I did a tractor split on this TO 30 that was easier and less messy. Anyway, back to my question, I've not heard of corn head grease b4 and am willing to try any 'better way' plus I cant find replacement seals at the steering arms nor lower housing gasket, how much do you think would be a good amount to apply or am I just doing a good slather around the bearings and gears?
Auto parts stores have sheets/rolls of different gasket materials. You can use that to make your own gasket. Cereal boxes have been used to make gaskets from in some cases.
 
Im in the middle of a steering R&R, all I can say is uggh. If you have ever done this you know what I mean, so many parts have to be removed and reinstalled it is unbelievable. I did a tractor split on this TO 30 that was easier and less messy. Anyway, back to my question, I've not heard of corn head grease b4 and am willing to try any 'better way' plus I cant find replacement seals at the steering arms nor lower housing gasket, how much do you think would be a good amount to apply or am I just doing a good slather around the bearings and gears?

Corn head grease is thick enough to stay (pretty much) confined behind poor seals but thin enough that it will slump and maintain lubrication on the teeth of the gears in places like steering gear boxes.
 
Auto parts stores have sheets/rolls of different gasket materials. You can use that to make your own gasket. Cereal boxes have been used to make gaskets from in some cases.
Just jumping in here.
Is the job a big one resealing the steering? Those arms need to be pressed out? Mine leaks like a seive also. I just use grease. Kinda afraid to tackle the resealing job.
 
Just jumping in here.
Is the job a big one resealing the steering? Those arms need to be pressed out? Mine leaks like a seive also. I just use grease. Kinda afraid to tackle the resealing job.
Take a look at my posting as per internet picture.....,pertaining to Steering arm SEAL installation.
 
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