D-17 Parts Interchangeability

[RTR]

I’m getting ready to start the restoration of a D 17 tractor. I believe it is a series 4 from what I’ve looked up. I’ve been told I have series one or two sheet metal, so I’m not sure exactly what this tractor is.

I’m going to need a lower radiator housing (or wide front steering bolster if that is what it’s called ) , spin out rims, wheel centers, the engine does smoke a little so that has to be checked out - plus anything else that I see it will need parts wise besides cosmetics.

My question to you is, during my parts search will these parts interchange between all of the different series of that Tractor? I have a friend at work that has a Series 3 D-17 that he wants to sell to me for around $1000. I figured that might be a good Parts tractor, but don’t want to buy it and nothing will interchange.

Here is a picture of my tractor.

 

[Jim.ME]

What is the tractor serial number as a starting point?

I think the Series IV used 6 bolt front hubs. Series 3 and prior could be 5 bolt or 6 bolt front hubs. The 5 bolt hubs in your picture would indicate Series 3 or before.

You can use the online parts books at AGCO parts to compare parts between the D17 Series IV and the D17 prior to Series IV (Series 1 through 3). They use two different parts books.

Edit: Thank you for the correction Dr Allis. My error in not checking details of the part numbers. The parts book drawing only shows a 6-bolt hub. The part numbers reveal a 5-bolt hub was also used.

 

[DrAllis]

The picture is for sure a SERIES 4 model. The hydraulic levers immediately to the right of the seat gives that away. Hoods from a series 3 and 4 are the SAME. They have an oval shaped muffler and a dry type air filter, which yours doesn't have. Rear wheels and centers are the same between S-3 and S-4. I imagine the engine needs an overhaul with no air cleaner on it.

 

[DrAllis]

Early series 4's used 5 bolt front wheels !!!! Nothing wrong with that.

 

[RTR]

I've got more (from a few years ago) pictures of it. It came with a dry type air cleaner but don't know how long it was removed before I got it. Was left to sit outside for about a year and the engine had gotten stuck. I let it soak for a week with ATF and got it freed up and running. Here is a video of that. Ignore the backwards carburetor. The rebuilder said the carb had came from a combine and didn't pay attention to how it was set up when I sent it and had reassembled it for combine spec (backwards to the tractor). It has been corrected since that video.

 

[DrAllis]

I'm glad you've got it and not me. She appears to have been many decades without proper care. What's with the "front support" needing replacement ??? Never seen that ever required ????

 

[RTR]

I'm glad you've got it and not me. She appears to have been many decades without proper care. What's with the "front support" needing replacement ??? Never seen that ever required ????

The "ears" where the bolts mount it to the radiator support are broken out. It is holding but ears being broken off it needs repaired. Wonder what this tractor will be worth (what would it bring) re-done?? "Re-done" meaning all leaks fixed, engine rebuilt as needed, others components repaired/rebuilt as needed, brakes done, disassembled down to main "chassis" to clean and paint, mild body work done, seat replaced , new tires, all rubber and plastic components replaced, paint and decals. I'm thinking $6,500 - $8,500.

 

[DrAllis]

Depends on what part of our great Country you are selling it in. The first thing to bring more $$$$ is a factory OEM 3-point hitch, which it doesn't have. The second feature is four hyd hose couplers on the back of the tractor, not just two. New brakes, an engine that doesn't smoke blue/use oil is a must. New tires and not rotten rear wheels also a requirement. New seat cushions are needed AND a rebuilt seat suspension so the seat works like it should. I'm not there looking at it, but I personally think you will be in it way toooo deep to ever some out on top. Then, you've got the hand clutch condition (can't jump out of either range at full throttle) and 3rd gear in the transmission going downhill. Sure makes me wonder how in Sam Hill anyone could break the ears off the front support ................

 

[RTR]

Depends on what part of our great Country you are selling it in. The first thing to bring more $$$$ is a factory OEM 3-point hitch, which it doesn't have. The second feature is four hyd hose couplers on the back of the tractor, not just two. New brakes, an engine that doesn't smoke blue/use oil is a must. New tires and not rotten rear wheels also a requirement. New seat cushions are needed AND a rebuilt seat suspension so the seat works like it should. I'm not there looking at it, but I personally think you will be in it way toooo deep to ever some out on top. Then, you've got the hand clutch condition (can't jump out of either range at full throttle) and 3rd gear in the transmission going downhill. Sure makes me wonder how in Sam Hill anyone could break the ears off the front support ................

I'm not sure how that happened but its not much metal holding on there - hence the word "ears". Probably from snatching it by the front axle a time or two. A friend wants me to restore it for him so he can use it doing deer plots on his land. I told him neighborhood of $7,500 and he was good with that. I also told him there could be hidden costs for more repairs I haven't found yet (like a full engine rebuild). The quote included all you mentioned except for transmission and the power director. Didn't know those were an issue on those models. This will be my first A/C to do. I'm well versed in offset Farmall tractors.

 

[DrAllis]

Hand clutch jumpout at full throttle and 3rd gear (all gears really) can best be checked with a running engine, so I don't know for sure where you might be on that.

 

[RTR]

It runs great. I haven't driven around very much due to a bad valve stem on front tire. I will get that repaired and run it a good bit to check it out.

 

[RTR]

Here are pictures of the D-17 Series 3 that my friend wants to sell me for around $1,000. He bought it at an estate auction (he buys/sells equipment for fun and is a salesman at the Kubota dealer I work at), and he said he hasn't ever messed with it. Looks too nice to part out in my book, but it would make some good parts too. Not sure that front support would interchange because the AGCO parts book shows different numbers.

 

[DrAllis]

Front support and everything related to it interchange S3 to S4.

 

[RTR]

Front support and everything related to it interchange S3 to S4.

Ok. All I had to go off of was the parts book and the part numbers were different.

 

[RTR]

Went and looked at the other tractor pictured above and it is straight - all of the hood latches are messed up and its wire tied down. (1) front and (1) rear rim are rotted around valve stem, rear tires are nice, has a significant leak at mid-section, clutch does not have much pedal at all, hand clutch/power director didn't have any resistance in either direction, engine looks to be out of a combine (painted grey), full of antifreeze, good front axle bolster, it turned over with a hot battery and popped off a couple times with carburetor spray ( I didn't get it running before my battery gave up), the whole tractor is straight and very original / clean like it hasn't been messed around with. He wants $1,100 or will take $900 if he keeps the fenders for his brothers tractor. Can't decide if it is worth it for parts (the bad rim did it for me, but it might be repairable), or to get running as-is and sell it. Would be harder to sell without fenders.

 

[DrAllis]

Your call on this. You must not have looked at the right hand hood. It appears to have been left on the ground and ran over with the tractor. Left hood looks nice.

 

[RTR]

Your call on this. You must not have looked at the right hand hood. It appears to have been left on the ground and ran over with the tractor. Left hood looks nice.

Yes I saw it. Looks wrinkled/dented up a little.

 

[RTR]

Will the fenders on the Series 3 fit the Series 4 tractor?

Asking since the S4 has all the extra stuff on the rear. He wants the fenders but I'm trying to work it out so I can let him have mine (his are a little nicer).

 

[DrAllis]

Fenders are identical, assuming they are original.

 

[Skyhighballoon(MO)]

Early series 4's used 5 bolt front wheels !!!! Nothing wrong with that.

+1 Dr. Allis! I have SN80314 (fall 1965ish?) that came with 5 bolt hubs and the older starburst logo on the hood nose and steering wheel but newer triangle logo on the rear of the seat.