Ih 706 d282 more power

[MeanGene1]

Just taking an engine and tweaking the governor to make it run faster than its rated speed will not achieve greater power since the torque would be dropping off faster than the speed is going up. This is very evident on a dyno power curve - above rated speed the power is dropping off. To make more power at a higher speed means you have to get the air and fuel in and the exhaust out faster which means the engine must be built for and optimized for that higher speed, typically at the expense of good power and efficiency at lower speeds.

Well, that is true up to a point, but you notice I mentioned other factors- there are different ways to "turn up"- or down- a Diesel engine. And don't confuse "greater" power with "rated" power And keep in mind I build performance and race engines, specializing in 427 Fords so I understand valve events and timing etc. But "rated" horsepower is still a calculated number based on torque and RPM. I spent a lot of time "derating" Diesel engines with all the Kommiforneea regulations like the "50 HP" thing as few years back- we even bought a couple of those air compressors that proudly say "49 HP" on the back, rather than mess with a few older Ingersols that I sold off. Manufacturers like Deere even had charts on their websites that would tell you what RPM to turn certain engines down to to get under horsepower limits for compliance. There are of course differences in tune and configurations between the many uses and ratings of the 282 engines in the 560, 656, 706, 660, combines etc., but there is also an increase in RPM with the increases in "rated" HP- as it is still a calculated number. BTW, as you seem to be interested in that stuff, we ran our Pro Modified 6200 lb pulling truck both Saturday at Calistoga Speedway and Sunday at Cal Expo, 672 ci 460 Ford. The Saturday event was VTPA and had a good field of tractors, lots of Poppers, a 40, 430, 60, and a very stout G, a bunch of Massey Harris, a couple Minny Mo's, some interesting Binders like a 200 that was REAL loud and strong, a very nice 400, several M's etc.

 

[ss55]

Hi guys I know you guys will think I’m crazy, but I want to get some more power out of my 706 for pulling and just doing some not heavy plowing and hay and other farm chores I’m looking to put a turbo and turn up the pump a little bit is that possible out of the 282 and what do I need to do to the motor to get there I’m not planning on 150 horse just 100 or so and where can I find a turbo and kit thanks

For farming get a tractor that fits your needs. If the budget allows maybe replace the 706 with an IH 1066? Or select tasks and implements within your 706's capabilities.

Tractor pulling contests each have their own sets of independent rules for a number of different classes. Check if a turbo is allowed in your class or if that kicks you into a higher more competitive class with much higher power. Building skill at pulling takes practice and experience. Building a winning puller within the rules often requires big money, cubic dollars as they say. My favorite name for a pulling tractor was EXCESS EQUITY. If you are on a tight budget, maybe stay with the 706 as-is and have some fun pulling while you gain more experience. What is your budget?

 

[the tractior vet]

Not the same. A 660 had a forged crankshaft and turned 2400 RPM. A 560 turned 1800 RPM.

D 282 in a 706 is already twisten that fast . Ya can't beat cu. in. with rpm's . To change where peak torque comes in ya need to reprofile the cam . and like said ya can't get much out of a D 282 . They worked well in there realm and did not have a drinking issue . You try pushen then ya start fixen . You start digging and looking at that engine and you see the shortfalls , four main bearing , lack of head bolts. head design , precup injection , no cooling jets on the bottom of the pistons . It is a gas engine with a diesel head and a injection pump .

 

[MeanGene1]

Yep, great engine at that power level, sweet running, good power and easy on fuel. Would NOT go tractor pulling with one, get an 806 and lean on it

 

[Young farmer]

For farming get a tractor that fits your needs. If the budget allows maybe replace the 706 with an IH 1066? Or select tasks and implements within your 706's capabilities.

Tractor pulling contests each have their own sets of independent rules for a number of different classes. Check if a turbo is allowed in your class or if that kicks you into a higher more competitive class with much higher power. Building skill at pulling takes practice and experience. Building a winning puller within the rules often requires big money, cubic dollars as they say. My favorite name for a pulling tractor was EXCESS EQUITY. If you are on a tight budget, maybe stay with the 706 as-is and have some fun pulling while you gain more experience. What is your budget?

My budget is 1500 I’m 16 so not a huge budget and I would love to upgrade to 806 or 1066 but unfortunately that’s just not in my budget the injectors are done I’m gonna do head studs new head gasket and I know the motor isn’t worn out that much i just want some more power out of this tractor because it’s really lagging and I see a lot of 282s with turbos so im just wondering if i can do that and still have a reliable tractor?

 

[ss55]

My budget is 1500 I’m 16 so not a huge budget and I would love to upgrade to 806 or 1066 but unfortunately that’s just not in my budget the injectors are done I’m gonna do head studs new head gasket and I know the motor isn’t worn out that much i just want some more power out of this tractor because it’s really lagging and I see a lot of 282s with turbos so im just wondering if i can do that and still have a reliable tractor?

Adjusting intake and exhaust valve clearances and checking injection pump timing would be low cost. Strongly suggest measuring what you have before opening it up and throwing parts at it: compression test, leak down test and dyno run are much cheaper than buying unnecessary parts and shop labor. Maybe also measure the camshaft lobe/valve travel. Regrinding the cam back to spec or to a pulling spec is not high cost.

It sounds like you might know some of the history of this tractor and engine. Does it have only a few hundred hours since its last professional overhaul or does it have over 15,000 hours and has never been opened since new?

 

[Alvin 41]

Hi guys I know you guys will think I’m crazy, but I want to get some more power out of my 706 for pulling and just doing some not heavy plowing and hay and other farm chores I’m looking to put a turbo and turn up the pump a little bit is that possible out of the 282 and what do I need to do to the motor to get there I’m not planning on 150 horse just 100 or so and where can I find a turbo and kit thanks

Back in the late 60's I was using a new 706 gas hard and it was burning valves . I finally put an Olds 455 V-8 in it and used it for yerars . Had about the power of a 1066 .Ran it to 5000 hours and sold it about 1985.

 

[Powered By IH]

Back in the late 60's I was using a new 706 gas hard and it was burning valves .

Did you use IH Low-Ash Oil?

 

[NDIHC]

I'm not quite understanding the reluctance to doing a dyno run. What's the point of throwing parts at something when you don't know what you have to work with in the first place? You could be down on compression and only pushing 60-65hp for all you know. Dyno, compression and leakdown will go a long way into assessing what your starting point is.

 

[Young farmer]

Adjusting intake and exhaust valve clearances and checking injection pump timing would be low cost. Strongly suggest measuring what you have before opening it up and throwing parts at it: compression test, leak down test and dyno run are much cheaper than buying unnecessary parts and shop labor. Maybe also measure the camshaft lobe/valve travel. Regrinding the cam back to spec or to a pulling spec is not high cost.

It sounds like you might know some of the history of this tractor and engine. Does it have only a few hundred hours since its last professional overhaul or does it have over 15,000 hours and has never been opened since new?

Ok thanks for the information the injection pump timing is good I’ve checked that, I’m gonna compression test it soon so I’ll have a answer to how much compression,I don’t know a ton about the tractor but It has about 7000 hours and I’m thinking it had a overall before I bought it and the guy I bought it from only ran a back blade for plowing snow so I think the engine is in fairly good shape it burns no oil and has very little blow by out of the dip stick

 

[the tractior vet]

Adjusting intake and exhaust valve clearances and checking injection pump timing would be low cost. Strongly suggest measuring what you have before opening it up and throwing parts at it: compression test, leak down test and dyno run are much cheaper than buying unnecessary parts and shop labor. Maybe also measure the camshaft lobe/valve travel. Regrinding the cam back to spec or to a pulling spec is not high cost.

It sounds like you might know some of the history of this tractor and engine. Does it have only a few hundred hours since its last professional overhaul or does it have over 15,000 hours and has never been opened since new?

Most likely like 90% of the 706's i have Bought , it has been worked hard maybe it had regular oil changes a rebu9ild at some point in time maybe around 3500 to 4500 hours and has never had a MAJOR tune up done since rebuild . The valves need adjusted , pump timing is close . But here is the main kicker the cam lobes are no longer nice and pointed they have rounded over the years of letting the rockers get out of adjustment . doing a valve adjustment on a I H is NOT a straight forward as it my seem . Ya have to really look at the rocker arm where it meets the valve stem as they do NOT ware even all across the rocker face and just stuffen a feller gauge between the rocker arm and the valve stem you will NOT getr a good set , Nope ain't ah going to happen . Call me OCD if ya like but i can set valves and have been doing so since 1959 . Back then almost everything was solid lifters and required setting valves ONCE a year . and over the year ya get the FEEL and my FEEL will not be the same as yours . In my teen's i could get more out of your lets go racing car then most , in my twenty's i had guy's who owned Dodge and Plymouth Hemi's wanting me to tune there cars as i could squeak out those few extra tenth's across the lights . And on a 426 Hemi by just the valve set you could make it do what ever . No two engines are the same . I don't care how you build them , they maybe close but one will always do better . Could i get him a few more pony's with out needing more green stamps ?>?Maybe How much more with out it coming unglued maybe 15 to 20 Hp with out breaking open the piggy bank. Will it be enough NOPE . He wants to knock heads with stuff that out classes him . A turbo is NOT going to help that much maybe 10-15 feet . He wants MORE on a limited budget . My advice is go find a DEAD 706 , then go find a 301 gas out of a old combine and start from there building a gasser that will stand up and do well is far less a hit to the piggy bank as straight out the gate it is a 95 HP ENGINE THAT WITH A FEW BUCKS CAN BECOME A 150 Hp engine . now fancy high dollar injection pump work . A cam regrind a little tweak to the gov a bigger Bendix carb a recurve of the dist. some C C work to the head and bigger intake valves a little port sizing and YEE HAW . I have built some wild gas engines for antique pulling and for parts we went dumpster diving Sleeves from a Cummins dealer pistons from a guy that worked on Allisons , rods from a I H salvage yard valves from a J D salvage yard only new parts were rings , bearings and custom made gskts and made more pony power the a 250 Hp dyno could shut down . Made for two long years for the rest pulling against us . Total green stamps on this project was under 3500 bucks , that included the price of the junk chassis the new parts and machine work and tires and won all four classes with four different drivers . two years running when we sold it to the person who we stomped on , who in turn who thought he could get more out of it only to have it come unglued in his drive way big time putting big HOLE in his fancy ranch home from flying pieces at RPM's it was not built for . I built it for under 2000 NOT 3000 .

 

[the tractior vet]

Yep, great engine at that power level, sweet running, good power and easy on fuel. Would NOT go tractor pulling with one, get an 806 and lean on it

And here again 806 was state of the art when new . I have been around them since new , i have bought and sold many and own one still . Just as i bought it way back in like 94 , she is ugly , leaks oil everywhere and runs like scalded dog . First year i owned it spring planting was way behind as i lost count of the 706's i was tryen to get my HOBBY farm planting done and i would get one out of the shop ready to rock and roll i might get in a dozen or so rounds of plowing done when someone would come in looking for a extra good tractor and i would drop the plow in the furrow and sell it . Then i was out of tractors as i farmed with what i had on hand . My one buddy who also jockeyed equipment had nothing either . Donny was heading east to a large sale with two semi loads of stuff and i went west to a sale with is shopping list as i did buying for him also . This ale was huge and only for dealers , yup they had tractors like 400 plus and NOT ONE in my price range even if i only bid one one and not five or six like i usually did . I bought what i could sell in three weeks and bought Donny three semi loads . Donny called on a saturday evening to see how muck of his piggy bank i emptied qnd he asked if i bought any tractors and i said NO out of OUR price range . He then told me that a auctioneer friend of our had two at the sale he no saled and had he known he would have tried to snag one for me . So i called ED after don and i talked and dang Ed played hard ball and i had to take BOTH a 706 wide ft diesel with three point and this ratty 806 D narrow ft fast hitch . I ended up with 2500 more in them then i wanted but Ed said they were good T/a's worked . SOOO to get then i ended up having to take Don's one semi over to the sale lot load half a load of iron then run to Bunker Hill W. Va. and pick up the two and load them on the back . The 706 i sold to the local I H dealer so he could put together a round bales sale and i kept the 806 . Got my farming done then ran down 26 miles to help Don help is sone get the new farm his kid bought plowed and planted and doing so ended up pulling the 806 in a local fireman's fest able and winning the 13500 class . yea the old ugly dog plum runs beating out a 1456 after thrashing a lot of big tractors , it came down to myself a Stanley Miller one of my customer and his 1456 . Stan and i put on a show that was not soon forgotten . They had every weight they had on the sled and stan and i both made full pulls . Some wanted us to split the prize , Nah we had to know who was king of the hill and for added weight they put Mike Coy up onto of all the slabs as Mike was shell we say sorta Chubby around 325 lbs Stan made his first try and did not get a full pull and had the chance to come back , me i made mine on the first try , Stan got a full pull on his second try , dang now what . Donny pulled the ft weights off his 706 about five hundred pounds and they got them up ontop with the aid of the skid steer . And here we go again Stan did not get a full pull and passed to come back after me . Third gear low range T/A ahead and i Crowler slid the clutch at around 1/2 throttle letting the tire bit in and eased the power on and walked it up out of the hole and made a full pull . stan came back for his second try and it was hammer down side step the clutch standing the 1456 almost straight up in the air and the sled moved the ft end of Stans tractor came down hard and half his ft weights came flyen off . He was D Qed and i won . Pulls done and they tried in vain to move the sled off the track and with a 4430 and the skid steer they could not move it and some one said looking at me said you planted it there now lets see if you can move it and i did i hauled it from one end to the other with no issue . Yup she is ugly BUT it has been the go to tractor in my area and i never know where it is half the time . I have replaced the clutch twice , fixed a weeping injection pump adjusted the valves replaced the unlatching valve several times the seat like four times now , upgraded the lights , rebuilt the started and had to replace half the exhaust manifold due to a tree branch , 706 went under it the 806 did not . It does NOW .