806 plowing video....

Absent Minded Farmer

Well-known Member
I had a can of Tillcoat to burn up & have neglected the bottoms on the 540 plow for a while. Figured it was time to clean them up. The front two shares were worse than the last two, so I ran it nose down to cover more surface area. The shares & shins came out glossy with that nice waxy feel to them. The moldboards at least came out smooth. Those are Case IH Earth Metal & really take some work to get a good polish to them.

Enjoy!

Mike


A little before & after. I don't mess around between plowing & coating, so I didn't think to get pics before painting them.

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I had a can of Tillcoat to burn up & have neglected the bottoms on the 540 plow for a while. Figured it was time to clean them up. The front two shares were worse than the last two, so I ran it nose down to cover more surface area. The shares & shins came out glossy with that nice waxy feel to them. The moldboards at least came out smooth. Those are Case IH Earth Metal & really take some work to get a good polish to them.

Enjoy!

Mike

Been a while since my 806 was hooked to a plow . Last time was several years back. i got a phone call from my friend and he was in a panic he said the 1066 just stopped dead in the field and he thought the clutch had gone out . Told him let me get my boots on and i'll be right out where ya at . He told me what field it had to be the one way out in the boonies at the far end . I get there and do a couple quick checks and Nope it's not the clutch it's the rear end . So go get the 806 and a chain unhook the plow a 5 bottom 710 , We drag the 1066 back to the silage bunker as he has no shop and the only place where there is concrete as i am going to have to tear the WHOLE back end apart . Now where are my fast hitch to three point adapters ???? after and hour of looking we find them some ONE left them on the bale wrapper . Get hooked to the plow and the 806 ended up plowing all the ground that spring then dragging the 470 18 foot disc while we were coming up with parts since finding a diff loc carrier for a 1066 is like finding hen's teeth that is still usable . Found one at Anderson tractor and that ate up a whole day of running three hours out and three back plus and hour looking over the carriers he had then coming up with extra shims . I knew this day was coming it just took 20 years for it to let go . My 806 pulled the five 16's just fine in fourth low where the 1066 will do it in first high and never break a sweat , it can do it in second but tryen to stay in the seat becomes and issue . Now the 806 just does the planting , hay mowing bale pick up and pulling silage wagons and wrapping round bales . Mine was a Narrow ft , But since we use it for mowing hay my buddy bought the wide ft. for it . I personally like the narrow .
 
Just had a flashback to my grade school days. Not from the plowing but from the "next slide" signal you played at the beginning of the video.

I have that exact plow, just pulled it out of the weeds last year and that was probably the first time it's been connected to the 756 in a good 40 years or more...
View attachment 152926
That's the same type "steerable" plow we used to pull with our 706D's. Once, one of "the boys" parked it out back and neglected to grease up the moldboards- guess who got the job of getting the rust off them...
 
When i was a teenager we pulled a plow just like that with a JD730 gas. I believe it had 14 inch bottoms and a spike tooth leveler that hung off the side. In heavy ground you could pull it in 2nd and light soil 3rd but it drank a lot of gas doing so.
 
I remember the neighbor bought a new round fender 706 narrow front. They pulled a 5 bottom Oliver trailer plow, but it was pretty slow going. The next year there was a new 806 wide front hooked to it. I never saw them try to plow with the 706 again.
Yea they did try and tell people the 706 was a 4-5 bottom tractor like they said the 806 was a 5-6 bottom tractor . Maybe 5-14's in sandy ground and 6 in the same ground for the 806 at 7-8 inches deep . we ran 16 inch bottoms and sunk them down 10-12 inches deep for tater 's . With the turbo and the screw turned we could run in first high . Myself i never upgraded my plow when i got my 806 i just pull the 4-16's that i pulled for years with the 706 . I was more into selling the plows i bought then use them . Gee's i had enough in the ones i was usen . I gave a 125 bucks for a 710 five bottom with one junk bottom and a stuck post that everybody said no way you will ever get that to move . Bet me . Two big rosebud torches and two 4x12 hyd cylinders and 1/2 inc G100 chain yup it moved and once it moved we kept it moving as it cooled , made some really weird noises and when it was cool enough for the Zep we spared non just soaked it and ya should have seen the rust come out of the post. then put the grease gun to it and off to the fields after we made it a four bottom
 
Pretty ⚡️cool video .⚡️ Suggest , The number one moldboard is loose ,( rocked back ,if the matters to you
You can grab the moldboard, by the edge & wiggle it a couple inches either way. I've never seen one so worn. It did come from a potato farm & was buried for most of it's working life. No's 2 & 3 are good yet & 4 is a bit loose, but not too bad. Didn't trip any of them when hitting the top of the mountain in the beginning of the vid.

The tail wheel assembly is nice & tight yet. Must have been changed out shortly before it was sold.

Still debating finding Fast Hitch prongs for it. The 560 could use a good ol' horse whipping workout.

Mike
 
Been a while since my 806 was hooked to a plow . Last time was several years back. i got a phone call from my friend and he was in a panic he said the 1066 just stopped dead in the field and he thought the clutch had gone out . Told him let me get my boots on and i'll be right out where ya at . He told me what field it had to be the one way out in the boonies at the far end . I get there and do a couple quick checks and Nope it's not the clutch it's the rear end . So go get the 806 and a chain unhook the plow a 5 bottom 710 , We drag the 1066 back to the silage bunker as he has no shop and the only place where there is concrete as i am going to have to tear the WHOLE back end apart . Now where are my fast hitch to three point adapters ???? after and hour of looking we find them some ONE left them on the bale wrapper . Get hooked to the plow and the 806 ended up plowing all the ground that spring then dragging the 470 18 foot disc while we were coming up with parts since finding a diff loc carrier for a 1066 is like finding hen's teeth that is still usable . Found one at Anderson tractor and that ate up a whole day of running three hours out and three back plus and hour looking over the carriers he had then coming up with extra shims . I knew this day was coming it just took 20 years for it to let go . My 806 pulled the five 16's just fine in fourth low where the 1066 will do it in first high and never break a sweat , it can do it in second but tryen to stay in the seat becomes and issue . Now the 806 just does the planting , hay mowing bale pick up and pulling silage wagons and wrapping round bales . Mine was a Narrow ft , But since we use it for mowing hay my buddy bought the wide ft. for it . I personally like the narrow .
What is it that happens to those plows, that the steering rod gets bent? I was happy my 540 had a straight one with a slight sag in it. Most around here were bent &/or welded up & that was with any color of plow.

Mike
 
What is it that happens to those plows, that the steering rod gets bent? I was happy my 540 had a straight one with a slight sag in it. Most around here were bent &/or welded up & that was with any color of plow.

Mike
Us old equipment Jockey's called that SHIPPING FEVER . When some one is TO LAZY to remove the coupling pole and loads something on top of the plow . When i was in the Iron buying mode i could load four semi mount plows on my goose neck , well four plows sold does not pay the rent nor the cost of hauling 3-400 miles one way So you loaded the wagon not worrying about the mule , so if four fit then we can put four more on top then add a couple transport disc. ontop of that and what ever else ontop of that , Now ya made your trip worth while . When done right nothing gets damaged . Always load plows first as a solid base just remove poles and any linkage before ya stack . , that is how poles get damaged . We straightened many damaged poles in the press and if to bad then make up a new one , we had a welder a drill press and torch . Jus tlike i would buy I H 560 6 bottoms , well around here and any place i sold STUFF nobody could pull a six bottom , SOOOOOO ya sell them what they want and can use so many six bottoms became four bottoms and even three bottom semi mounts and sold vary well way over east . When done correctly they look factory and they even plow straight . Doing this gave you spare parts for the ones that were not so good three bolts and ya remove the bad bottom and replace with a good one and when done ya got a pile of scrap that at the time was worth anywhere from a 150-190 a ton . Same way with buying the right size transport disc , ok so it needs new blades and maybe a bearing or two . We had a sources to buy new 7 Ga blades in 18 and 20 inch in stacks of a 100 for 2.50 a blade ya might steal a rough one for a 150 bucks drag it home throw on 40-44 new blades a bearing or two add a sherman and williams over haul requiring 2 Qt.s of paint thinned with reg gas back when gas still had LEAD in it at 65 cents a gallon new red paint and new black blade CHI CHING and it would sell for on the low side 1250 or hit a home run at 2450 . 10 to 14 footers sold well . Ya got to remember at a sale it only takes one GOOD Auctioneer and one buyer to make a sale . SOOOOO always beware and spend wisely. Get to know your auctioneers . I had like 9 i worked with on the buying end and 15 on the selling end . Mike was from Northern Ill. Cal was from Mid state Ill. Jimmy was mid state In. Gary was from western In. Ben was mid state IN. Denny was mid state In. Rollen was S/W ohio , Rusty was E/ In Joe and Tod E. IN Ya had to keep and eye on Rusty to make sure he was not taking bids from fence post or that bird that just flew by . Just remember the auctioneer will always tell ya when you have spent enough .
 
I watched your video and I appreciate you posting, but plowing videos on YouTube set my teeth on edge. The problem is the 'hook' in the furrow that develops- and gets bigger and bigger- with each pass. I guess I'm one of the last that actually took pride in straight rows and that extends back in time each season with straight furrows. Too many guys just drive up, put the right wheel in the furrow and drop the plow. Shrug shoulders, 'Well, I guess that's just what plows do...' Nope- it's what lazy plowmen do.

The problem- especially with semi-mounted plows- is that the geometry of the machine tends to throw it over to the right and against the left-hand sway block. After the plow 'bites' in, it swings either straight or over to the left against the right-hand sway block and that causes the hook. If you watch, you'll see your front bottom taking a very narrow cut at the start of each pass and then gradually taking more of the full cut.

Here's what you do to keep the furrow straight (after you overcut to correct the hook). It takes just a little practice, but it's not difficult: Line up the tractor just a bit to the left so the furrow wheel is still about half on land. Drop the plow so the front bottom engages the soil just a bit before the furrow wheel slips sideways into the furrow. Now it's not the plow that starts right and moves left, it's the tractor that starts left and moves right. Easy-Peasy!
 
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