2590 504 Rebuild Advice Needed.

[jogl]

My plough horse, the 2590 is all of a sudden getting coolant in the oil.

I bypassed the engine oil cooler and gave her a run. There is no oil coming out of the cooler and there is still coolant getting into the oil.

So it looks like head gasket and / or cavitated sleeves.

If I do an in frame what is involved in getting the sleeves out and in. I have done in frames and out of frames on dry sleeves before but I have never done a wet sleeved engine. I read somewhere that wet sleeves are easier than dry to get in. Is that true?

So I am planning an inframe, heads done, sleeves, rings, roll in bearings, etc.

Any other advice for my first time in a 504?

Thanks,
JP.

 

[casecollectorsc]

When you get the sleeves out, take a light hammer and tap around the top edge of the sleeves. If a cracked sleeve the flange will break away when you tap on it.

 

[jogl]

Are the sleeves hard to pull like on a dry sleeve engine? On dry sleeves I usually weld beads after first unsuccessful attempt with a puller.

 

[casecollectorsc]

Are the sleeves hard to pull like on a dry sleeve engine? On dry sleeves I usually weld beads after first unsuccessful attempt with a puller.

With a sleeve puller they come out fairly easy. Lower block needs to be cleaned good and check for pits where the o ring goes.

 

[jon f mn]

The wet sleeves are very easy to remove compared to dry sleeves. The sleeves do Crack, and a head gasket could be your problem and cavitation too, but most likely is the o-rings at the bottom of the sleeves have started leaking. That doesn't change much as the end result is the same, its just the most common. As to an inframe, as long as the crank is good and the rear seal isn't leaking that is a fi e way to handle it. The most common reason for failure after an overhaul on a case is from failing to properly re-torque the heads properly after re-assembly. Get a good book and do it exactly as it says and you should be fine.

As to pulling the sleeves, a simple puller made from a couple pieces of steel tube and threaded rod is what I use. Cut one so it wont pull through the sleeve a d the other as wide as the block. I stand a couple sockets under the top one and just tighten and the sleeves should pop out, especially since its a running engine. And as said, check for pitting in the lower bore and check stand out on the sleeves.

 

[jogl]

If it turns out to be the orings at the bottom of the sleeves leaking and the sleeves and pistons and rings look OK can it be re-assembled with new orings?

If there is pitting in the lower bore how would I repair that?

Thanks,
JP.

 

[casecollectorsc]

If it turns out to be the orings at the bottom of the sleeves leaking and the sleeves and pistons and rings look OK can it be re-assembled with new orings?

If there is pitting in the lower bore how would I repair that?

Thanks,
JP.

A quick fix is to sand the area good and smear JB weld on the pitted area let dry good and sand smooth.

 

[Micah2]

Drop the pan and get a cooling system pressure tester and see if you see anything leaking. We had coolant in the oil on our 1070 and it ended up being the cylinder o rings but I doubt oil would get into the coolant that way without you getting coolant in the oil.

 

[jon f mn]

If it turns out to be the orings at the bottom of the sleeves leaking and the sleeves and pistons and rings look OK can it be re-assembled with new orings?

If there is pitting in the lower bore how would I repair that?

Thanks,
JP.

You can, but an engine kit is really not that much more. I think a head gasket kit is around $500 and a complete kit was less than $2k. Same labor. And Steve is correct on the pitting. I used jb weld and a cylinder hone to smooth them after.

 

[Bill in Colo]

My plough horse, the 2590 is all of a sudden getting coolant in the oil.

I bypassed the engine oil cooler and gave her a run. There is no oil coming out of the cooler and there is still coolant getting into the oil.

So it looks like head gasket and / or cavitated sleeves.

If I do an in frame what is involved in getting the sleeves out and in. I have done in frames and out of frames on dry sleeves before but I have never done a wet sleeved engine. I read somewhere that wet sleeves are easier than dry to get in. Is that true?

So I am planning an inframe, heads done, sleeves, rings, roll in bearings, etc.

Any other advice for my first time in a 504?

Thanks,
JP.

Be sure to test the oil cooler, I lost a 504 to cooler failure, in testing water temp had to be over 180 degrees to leak at 20psi.

 

[jogl]

Pretty sure the cooler is not the culprit. That was the first thing I tested.

The tractor has been sitting without running for over a week (with oil cooler disconnected). Every couple days I have drained a little from the oil pan and there is always a little more coolant in the oil. So it seems that coolant is getting into the oil even when the engine is not running. Really points to liners or liner o-rings I think.

P.S.: Bill, you've been around here for a LONG time!