8N keeps cranking had to disconnect battery

[KristofMI]

So I had some issues this weekend with my 8N. It was really hard to start. When it finally did and I let it run for few minutes it died as soon as I turn on PTO. Won't start since then and I let it sit for few hours . Came back and try to start it again and it won't stop cranking. I flip the key and it still won't stop cranking. Had to quickly disconnect battery. But now as soon as I try to reconnect it it cranks over and over. What should I check or do before I reconnect the battery? I don't want to kill the starter. Converted to 12V and electronic ignition.

 

[used red MN]

So I had some issues this weekend with my 8N. It was really hard to start. When it finally did and I let it run for few minutes it died as soon as I turn on PTO. Won't start since then and I let it sit for few hours . Came back and try to start it again and it won't stop cranking. I flip the key and it still won't stop cranking. Had to quickly disconnect battery. But now as soon as I try to reconnect it it cranks over and over. What should I check or do before I reconnect the battery? I don't want to kill the starter. Converted to 12V and electronic ignition.

Disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid. If you can connect the battery cable now and it doesn’t crank there is something wrong in your starting circuit. If it still cranks then the contacts in your starter solenoid have fused themselves in the contacting or start position, replace the solenoid. Common occurrence on “land of almost right” solenoids, especially when the battery has been cranked down to a lower voltage.

 

[Kondoge]

bad ground? this happened to me.

 

[Royse]

So I had some issues this weekend with my 8N. It was really hard to start. When it finally did and I let it run for few minutes it died as soon as I turn on PTO. Won't start since then and I let it sit for few hours . Came back and try to start it again and it won't stop cranking. I flip the key and it still won't stop cranking. Had to quickly disconnect battery. But now as soon as I try to reconnect it it cranks over and over. What should I check or do before I reconnect the battery? I don't want to kill the starter. Converted to 12V and electronic ignition.

As Used Red said, disconnect that small wire. If it still cranks, "sometimes" you can tap the solenoid with a screwdriver handle and jar those contacts loose. If you do have to replace the solenoid, don't go by looks. The solenoid on an 8N is activated by applying ground to that little terminal from your push button. Other solenoids that look the same require battery voltage to that wire. If the 12V conversion eliminated using the push button, then I can't say for sure which you have from here. Make sure you get the right one.

 

[KristofMI]

As Used Red said, disconnect that small wire. If it still cranks, "sometimes" you can tap the solenoid with a screwdriver handle and jar those contacts loose. If you do have to replace the solenoid, don't go by looks. The solenoid on an 8N is activated by applying ground to that little terminal from your push button. Other solenoids that look the same require battery voltage to that wire. If the 12V conversion eliminated using the push button, then I can't say for sure which you have from here. Make sure you get the right one.

Royse aren't you the one who was rebuilding the carbs? I think you did mine years ago I'm located near South Haven MI
Anyway I will try that over the weekend.

 

[Royse]

Royse aren't you the one who was rebuilding the carbs? I think you did mine years ago I'm located near South Haven MI
Anyway I will try that over the weekend.

Yes, that's me. I gave up doing the rebuilds now but I'm still enjoying my tractors.

 

[KristofMI]

Yes, that's me. I gave up doing the rebuilds now but I'm still enjoying my tractors.

Do you enjoy working on tractors? Maybe I could bring you mine so you can make it run like new? ;-)

 

[Royse]

Do you enjoy working on tractors? Maybe I could bring you mine so you can make it run like new? ;-)

You could! I'd be happy to help. Still have a bunch of parts around too.

 

[KristofMI]

You could! I'd be happy to help. Still have a bunch of parts around too.

Awesome. Let me work on it this weekend. If I can't get it running nice and smooth we car arrange delivery.

 

[KristofMI]

I removed the starter solenoid it was acting weird
Should it be 12V?

 

[HCooke]

No. 6 volt will be fine.

 

[KristofMI]

I decided to place the tractor in garage and remove the tank. I will perform all electric inspection and probably replace add some things. I just wish I could spend more time on it instead of waiting whole week

 

[Hobo,NC]

In this day and time poor quality would be the #1 suspect. Back in the day the #1 issue was a low/bad/failing battery. If it ever sticks its game on it will stick again. Once you get a new one installed are if you take yours apart and clean it up well check battery voltage while cranking.

I would take it apart for the ell of it anyways.

 

[hurleyjd]

Any 12 volt conversion on any tractor I had had a diode to keep the current from feeding from the alternator

 

[Eman85]

Any 12 volt conversion on any tractor I had had a diode to keep the current from feeding from the alternator

looks like a 1 wire alternator so no diode involved. if he wired it for 3 wires then he needs a diode or an indicator lamp.

The sticking solenoid is why when working on a tractor it very important to make sure it's out of gear. If hooking up the battery and the tractor in gear and the solenoid sticks the tractor will run you over. Very common if the battery is low or dead and you put booster cables on. You only have to see it once, you'll never forget. A Ford truck with a manual transmission and a dead battery can be dangerous when you hook the cables if it's in gear.

 

[soaked]

Hi KristofMI,
Nice 8n!
Wondered about your EI, so looked back in your previous posts, and found its a pertronix 1244A. Also found your Hot coil is 1 ohm, and the resistor is 2.0 ohm.
Your old wiring diagram appears to show your coil, AND the pertronix red wire, are ran through your 2.0 ohm resistor? (the white wire)

If so, the pertronix red wire needs to get power from the other side of the resistor, so the ignitor gets full battery volts. Only the coil gets resisted volts. If volts to the red wire drop too low, the ignitor will go intermittent, then as volts drop farther, it will fail to switch at all. Low 9's are my understanding of when cut out occurs.
 John

 

[KristofMI]

Hi KristofMI,
Nice 8n!
Wondered about your EI, so looked back in your previous posts, and found its a pertronix 1244A. Also found your Hot coil is 1 ohm, and the resistor is 2.0 ohm.
Your old wiring diagram appears to show your coil, AND the pertronix red wire, are ran through your 2.0 ohm resistor? (the white wire)
View attachment 153919

If so, the pertronix red wire needs to get power from the other side of the resistor, so the ignitor gets full battery volts. Only the coil gets resisted volts. If volts to the red wire drop too low, the ignitor will go intermittent, then as volts drop farther, it will fail to switch at all. Low 9's are my understanding of when cut out occurs.
 John

Appreciate your response. I will be double checking everything when I get back to the tractor. I purchased a 12V coil with internal resistor so I will ditch the white resistor.

 

[soaked]

Back in 2010 I put a 1244A, and a pertronix 12 volt 3.0 ohm coil in my backyard mowing 8n. Also ran suppression wires. It still fires up instantly, with no choke.
Suggest take a net ohm reading on your new coil before running it. It must be 3.0 or a bit more.
Agree with Hobo, drill the rivets out and see what's up in your soilenoid.

 

[KristofMI]

while I'm there I want to check for timing. Is the steps the same as with the contacts?

 

[soaked]

Yes, when running, checking 1244A with a timing light should be the same as if points. Here is the ° for each rpm range, from the owners manual