New Allis Chalmers B owner

[Chris689]

Hey everyone. So I purchased my first antique tractor last weekend. A 1940 B with some assembly required. I’ve been slowly piecing it back together with no references as to how it all assembles but I’m getting there. The engine was rebuilt by a previous owner at some point which was a big plus. The engine hasn’t been run since it was built as far as I can tell. I am having an issue with the front wheels being toed in horribly even with the tie rod ends maxed out. Hard to tell if the steering arms are correct or not. Not sure if they were ever swapped out. It’s been a fun little project though and I’ve got some plans for it as time goes on.

 

[d13series1]

So the front of the tires point in (toe in) with the tie rods turned all the way in the drag link (the curved bar connecting the two sides)? Did you run out of threads on the rod ends or the drag link? if there is thread showing on the rods, pull them out and cut some off. If there are no threads left showing, something is badly wrong... I think there is only 1 B drag link, so it would have to be wrong spindles.

 

[Chris689]

So the front of the tires point in (toe in) with the tie rods turned all the way in the drag link (the curved bar connecting the two sides)? Did you run out of threads on the rod ends or the drag link? if there is thread showing on the rods, pull them out and cut some off. If there are no threads left showing, something is badly wrong... I think there is only 1 B drag link, so it would have to be wrong spindles.

So honestly I haven’t done anything with the front end. I looked at the tie rod ends and it looks like there may be one or two threads showing, not enough to remedy the problem. I wouldn’t be surprised if something is bent. I’m the third or fourth person to take on what was supposedly a restoration and I have no idea as to what has and hasn’t been replaced with good or bad parts. I’ve been slowly puting it back together and ordering the parts that are missing.

 

[4wdtom]

Hey everyone. So I purchased my first antique tractor last weekend. A 1940 B with some assembly required. I’ve been slowly piecing it back together with no references as to how it all assembles but I’m getting there. The engine was rebuilt by a previous owner at some point which was a big plus. The engine hasn’t been run since it was built as far as I can tell. I am having an issue with the front wheels being toed in horribly even with the tie rod ends maxed out. Hard to tell if the steering arms are correct or not. Not sure if they were ever swapped out. It’s been a fun little project though and I’ve got some plans for it as time goes on.

The reprint parts manual I have says the tie rod tube should be 31" for the front axle you have. Part no. 207847

 

[Chris689]

The reprint parts manual I have says the tie rod tube should be 31" for the front axle you have. Part no. 207847

So mine is measuring at almost 32” overall. I wonder if it was replaced at some point.

 

[4wdtom]

View attachment 154167
So mine is measuring at almost 32” overall. I wonder if it was replaced at some point.

There are no 32" tie rods listed in the parts book. It looks like yours has the proper arch or bend in the middle which if it had been straightened would have made it longer. It's a mystery. Could you cut 7/16" from each end? Would this make alignment right? Would the ends be able to screw in enough still? The threads could be tapped deeper with the right tap. Or possibly you could cut off a little of the threads on the tie rod ends, might take an abrasive wheel if they are heat treated.

 

[Chris689]

There are no 32" tie rods listed in the parts book. It looks like yours has the proper arch or bend in the middle which if it had been straightened would have made it longer. It's a mystery. Could you cut 7/16" from each end? Would this make alignment right? Would the ends be able to screw in enough still? The threads could be tapped deeper with the right tap. Or possibly you could cut off a little of the threads on the tie rod ends, might take an abrasive wheel if they are heat treated.

So I’m thinking of possibly going the cut everything down route. There’s a couple tie rod assemblies for sale so if I screw it up horribly I can order a replacement.

 

[4wdtom]

So I’m thinking of possibly going the cut everything down route. There’s a couple tie rod assemblies for sale so if I screw it up horribly I can order a replacement.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Dick L]

Hey everyone. So I purchased my first antique tractor last weekend. A 1940 B with some assembly required. I’ve been slowly piecing it back together with no references as to how it all assembles but I’m getting there. The engine was rebuilt by a previous owner at some point which was a big plus. The engine hasn’t been run since it was built as far as I can tell. I am having an issue with the front wheels being toed in horribly even with the tie rod ends maxed out. Hard to tell if the steering arms are correct or not. Not sure if they were ever swapped out. It’s been a fun little project though and I’ve got some plans for it as time goes on.

It might have been disassembled and not have been assembled properly.
https://images20.fotki.com/v1642/photos/3/34676/70449/Frontaxleparts-vi.jpg

 

[4wdtom]

It might have been disassembled and not have been assembled properly.
https://images20.fotki.com/v1642/photos/3/34676/70449/Frontaxleparts-vi.jpg
View attachment 154573

The bends in the tie rod in this picture do not look right. There should be a straight section on each end, level and parallel with the front axle, then in the middle is a smooth bend up or bit of an arch for crop clearance. It would appear that this tie rod in Dick L's picture needs to be supported in the center, just below the jaws of the dial caliper in the picture, and then the ends bend back towards the axle in the picture to get the proper arch in the center. This can be seen in the OP's original post, second picture. It seems to have the right looking bend, why it is too long is a mystery.

 

[Dick L]

The bends in the tie rod in this picture do not look right. There should be a straight section on each end, level and parallel with the front axle, then in the middle is a smooth bend up or bit of an arch for crop clearance. It would appear that this tie rod in Dick L's picture needs to be supported in the center, just below the jaws of the dial caliper in the picture, and then the ends bend back towards the axle in the picture to get the proper arch in the center. This can be seen in the OP's original post, second picture. It seems to have the right looking bend, why it is too long is a mystery.

I am 88 years old now and that picture was taken 24 years ago to post to help someone on one of the Allis Chalmers sites with some type of question. I have rebuilt several like this installing new bushings and never worried about the correct factory look. I just made sure they would steer properly. I do remember I ordered ford bushings at the time as they were the same and easier for me to get. If the lock bolt on the steering arm gets loose it can turn. This could be his problem. The lock bolt being the same style as the starter. No splines like a car. It has been 10 years since I have been in a wheelchair and obe hand is crippled. I still put in a clutch in a 5020 from the wheelchair a three years ago.