MF12 "sticking" at top of stroke

[mml373]

I am trying to get my Massey Ferguson MF12 baler running for the season. It was running perfectly at the close of last season. Unfortunately it is "sticking" at the top of the stroke, where the arms that push hay into the bale chute are fully out of the baler/upright.

It also isn't tying, but I suspect that's from sitting for 9 months.

Any idea why the arms would be running into mechanical resistance? Something somewhere is not straight for some reason. It is a bit better with lubrication and exercise, but still pretty tight and can bog the tractor down or slip the transmission on the tractor if I try starting the baler in that position (I roll it back by hand and it's fine).

$50,000 for a new baler. Folks have to be COMPLETELY KIDDING at the equipment dealership. This is just not attainable for anyone who isn't running a big/commercial operation. Like beyond crazy, this is "totally lost your mind" territory and manufacturers ought to be ashamed.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

I'd go over the plunger & chamber. Could have a seized roller or bent slide somewhere. Make sure things are square in that chamber there.

Mike

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Probably rust between lower baler chamber and rails on top of lower bale case where rollers ride. The rust raises the rail causing it to bind plungerhead against upper rail.

 

[mml373]

Thank you, guys. I'll have a look. I do wish I could find someone to go through these and replace bearings, time, etc. It is worth it to me to have these machines professionally gone through...but not at my local farm supply store. They were at $175/hr shop rate a couple years ago. WTH.

 

[DanielW]

Completely agree with Roger. Have seen that on two balers. On one it wasn't rust-jacking so much as water/ice jacking because the old owner stored it outside for a winter before I bought it. Water got in behind the tracks, froze, and bent the tracks up/in.

 

[mml373]

Oh, one other question. My manual is hard to read... Starting at the far right side as number 1 and the slot closest to the left side as number 4, what positions do the twine balls go in? I noticed my twine was tangled in the twine box...no doubt could be a contributing factor to lack of tying...

 

[mml373]

Completely agree with Roger. Have seen that on two balers. On one it wasn't rust-jacking so much as water/ice jacking because the old owner stored it outside for a winter before I bought it. Water got in behind the tracks, froze, and bent the tracks up/in.

Mine has been tarped during winters...best I can do...but I suspect ice could be an issue.

I swear the entry cost to ag is too high for middle-aged folks with young children and a mortgage.

 

[Loosehandle]

Oh, one other question. My manual is hard to read... Starting at the far right side as number 1 and the slot closest to the left side as number 4, what positions do the twine balls go in? I noticed my twine was tangled in the twine box...no doubt could be a contributing factor to lack of tying...

Get fresh twine!

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Thank you, guys. I'll have a look. I do wish I could find someone to go through these and replace bearings, time, etc. It is worth it to me to have these machines professionally gone through...but not at my local farm supply store. They were at $175/hr shop rate a couple years ago. WTH.

Around what area of the country do you live? Someone here might know of someone who could help.

Mike

 

[DanielW]

I don't know my Massey balers well enough to know the differences between the 12 and 120, but I'm pretty sure they'd be the same twine routing - most balers are. See pic below.

Although I don't know Massey balers well, I've been pretty favourable impressed with the ones I've been around and used. Especially the 124 and 224. I think I'd pick a 224 over the NH 270-series and Deere 336's that were being produced at the same time (though they're all good balers). All use the Deering knotter principle, but while most manufacturers (NH, Deere, Allis, Hesston/Oliver, Deutz, etc.). used knotters made by Rasspe, Massey used their own which were a little different. One of the key difference (if I remember right) is the wiper arm not stripping the twine from the billhook at really close clearances like the Rasspe ones do. So on the Masseys you really have to make sure your twine knives are sharp and the knotter is adjusted right.

I don't like the Massey version of the Deering knotters quite as much as those made by Rasspe used on NH's, Deere's, etc. But the rest of the balers are very no-nonsense and all parts (including the knotters) are beefy and robust. And they're still waaaay better than the McCormick knitters IJH used on the two-digit series.

 

[mml373]

Around what area of the country do you live? Someone here might know of someone who could help.

Mike

Mansfield, Missouri area. Thank you.

 

[mml373]

I GOT IT RUNNING! The mechanism seems to be the slide but I am going to have someone look at it. For now, though, it runs and after additional cleaning and noticing a stick knife mechanism, I lubricated all that and tried the baler. 13 bales on my test track, and it missed ZERO knots!!

The only other issue is that the first 8 or so bales were loosely tied, which makes handling tough. Later bales were tight and easily moved. Why would the first 8 or so have had slack in the string? I'm thinking the twine tensioner coming out of the bale box may be too loose (I did loosen it last year) but something else may be going on given that the problem seems to have resolved after the first 8 bales or so.

Appreciate all the help here. I need to hang out on these forums more, as I would much rather get these balers 100% gone through and then use these forums to improve my working knowledge to keep them going. $50k for a new baler...I still can't get over that.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Glad you got it going!

The inside of the bale chamber may have been a bit rough & tacky, especially if hay was left behind in it. You want that whole area, behind the knotters to be.... at least smooth. It also takes a few bales before the whole operation starts putting them out right. The manual for my baler says to make your adjustments after the second or third bale. That way the chamber is full & the slices should be entering with a fairly even pressure.

It could be a myriad of other problems, but that was the first thought that came to mind, with the info given.

Those $50K balers are 80 year old tech with a modern polish to them.

Oh..... & keep those twine knives KEEN!!

Mike

 

[mml373]

Glad you got it going!

The inside of the bale chamber may have been a bit rough & tacky, especially if hay was left behind in it. You want that whole area, behind the knotters to be.... at least smooth. It also takes a few bales before the whole operation starts putting them out right. The manual for my baler says to make your adjustments after the second or third bale. That way the chamber is full & the slices should be entering with a fairly even pressure.

It could be a myriad of other problems, but that was the first thought that came to mind, with the info given.

Those $50K balers are 80 year old tech with a modern polish to them.

Oh..... & keep those twine knives KEEN!!

Mike

Thank you, Mike.

How to sharpen the knives? Can I get in there with a file or is disassembly required?

I was wondering how technologically advanced the new balers are. Honestly, companies ought to produce budget equipment that is simple but durable and repairable for those of us who are not big-time farmers on many acres. I'd sooner spend a few thousand to make these balers like new, mechanically, before going into debt for the new ones... the up front expense is worthwhile compared to debt that never will pencil out.

 

[showcrop]

I would be looking at the plunger head alignment. At the same time sharpen the knives.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Thank you, Mike.

How to sharpen the knives? Can I get in there with a file or is disassembly required?

I was wondering how technologically advanced the new balers are. Honestly, companies ought to produce budget equipment that is simple but durable and repairable for those of us who are not big-time farmers on many acres. I'd sooner spend a few thousand to make these balers like new, mechanically, before going into debt for the new ones... the up front expense is worthwhile compared to debt that never will pencil out.

You need a whet stone to keep after the knives on the knotters. IH handed out a Carborundum stone with their balers. You can find one on eBay to get an idea of what I'm talking about.

Most knotters have a bolt on them that you can remove & swing them up on the shaft to get to the knife. The ones on my IH balers are at the bottom of the knotter mechanism, by the breast plate, facing forward toward the tractor. Not sure where they are on your MF.

The plunger & chamber knives can be pulled & sharpened with whatever grinder you like.

Be sure to get an owner's & service manual for your machine.

The new small squares are built a bit heavier & can move more hay vs the old ones. Outside of additional electrical features & accessories.... it's still the same, basic machine.

Mike