Got my 8n running again still issues

[ErikL97]

Yes the .046- .052 jet size is good.
Plugs were dirty?
Flooding should make them wet...

Really carbon and wet

 

[soaked]

Are you perhaps over choking, or is the float stuck?
Stuck float would cause fuel to constantly run out from the carb throat once the fuel is turned on.

 

[ErikL97]

Are you perhaps over choking, or is the float stuck?
Stuck float would cause fuel to constantly run out from the carb throat once the fuel is turned on.

I have to choke each time it needs to be started, maybe my float is getting stuck I haven’t tore it apart to check everything yet. I just got it started and was able to get it back to the tractor shed

 

[ErikL97]

Yes the .046- .052 jet size is good.
Plugs were dirty?
Flooding should make them wet...

I did check by unscrewing the main jet needle when I removed it, the tractor would cut off and I would place it back in and it would keep running. I will check plugs this weekend maybe and take carb off to check the jet sizes, now I did tighten the small brass screw on the side of my carb and I swear it does not hurt it. I can not find any leaks I’ve sprayed carb cleaner around carb and the manifold. I do have a exhaust leak I see smoke where the clamp is when it backfires

 

[soaked]

On a carb with too much back suction, from having the .076" jet, unscrewing and lifting the main needle opens a large hole to the atmosphere, and defeates the back suction. If the economizer jet is OK, unscrewing the needle should make it run rich, and die.
If your test was taken at about 1/2 throttle, then its not an over achieving jet.
The small brass screw facing forward is just a plug.
Did you time your distributor like this?

 

[ErikL97]

On a carb with too much back suction, from having the .076" jet, unscrewing and lifting the main needle opens a large hole to the atmosphere, and defeates the back suction. If the economizer jet is OK, unscrewing the needle should make it run rich, and die.
If your test was taken at about 1/2 throttle, then its not an over achieving jet.
The small brass screw facing forward is just a plug.
Did you time your distributor like this?
View attachment 154124

Yes I did the distributor like that. Now I did check my gap along time ago maybe the guy I had to that gapped it too far

 

[soaked]

Point gap is .015"
Its always good to pull a match book cover through the points to clean.
Has the tractor ever ran good with the new distributor?

 

[DanielW]

Point gap is .015"
Its always good to pull a match book cover through the points to clean.
Has the tractor ever ran good with the new distributor?

This is true - I find new points these days pretty much always need a good clean to make any conductivity. And unfortunately with many sets of new points, the old paper-bag/matchbook/dollar-bill trick doesn't cut it anymore - the new ones seem to be coated with a tougher anti-oxide coating that needs one or two light strokes with a fine pints file to get any conductivity.

 

[soaked]

This is true - I find new points these days pretty much always need a good clean to make any conductivity. And unfortunately with many sets of new points, the old paper-bag/matchbook/dollar-bill trick doesn't cut it anymore - the new ones seem to be coated with a tougher anti-oxide coating that needs one or two light strokes with a fine pints file to get any conductivity.

Agree! we sure have to be on the ball, now a days.
Poor quality points and condensors makes EI more and more appealing, especially on front mounts...

 

[Non-farmer]

Poor quality points and condensors makes EI more and more appealing, especially on front mounts...

Indeed. I am so happy with my choice to go to EI. It's been a real joy to not have to touch that distributor for years now.

 

[ErikL97]

Point gap is .015"
Its always good to pull a match book cover through the points to clean.
Has the tractor ever ran good with the new distributor?

It did like the first couple days, then I burned up my new coil again because I didn’t have a resistor took me and my mechanic awhile to figure it out I kept telling him my battery charges to 15volts and my coil is only 12 and I’m getting 13 volts or more on it so we figured it out with the resistors. Then we install a new coil and while he was her I think he gapped my points a little too far I’m thinking so I can go back and see if that is the issue.

 

[soaked]

Having it run good with the new distributor means it was likely assembled properly, and the advance weights are OK. (It did have the curclip loose...)
Agree, the 12 volt coils that have ~2.5 ohms need to have the factory( ~ .4 -1.5 ohm) resistor.
Is that what you have?

 

[ErikL97]

Having it run good with the new distributor means it was likely assembled properly, and the advance weights are OK. (It did have the curclip loose...)
Agree, the 12 volt coils that have ~2.5 ohms need to have the factory( ~ .4 -1.5 ohm) resistor.
Is that what you have?

Yes that what I have now, it’s brand new I get 10 volts to it now last I checked

 

[ErikL97]

Yes the .046- .052 jet size is good.
Plugs were dirty?
Flooding should make them wet...

Checked my jet today, it was on my caliper .032 was the smallest wire I had from the carb cleaning kit I had bought for cleaning carbs for saws and lawnmowers and stuff, I had a wire on my caliper that was a .042 but was too big for my jet so my jet is small. Would that be an issue should I get another jet?

Also I’m having issues now with the steering, it sticks and is very very hard to turn while jacked in the air

 

[soaked]

A .032" economizer jet, would block the back suction more than the stock 9n9914 jet ( .046) so mid to upper rpm range would run Richer than stock.(less back suction) (Remember the big .076 jet runs lean)
A soldered closed economizer jet ran super rich, wafting black in the exhaust.

Could pop the drag link ends off and see if spindles or steering box is the culprit.

 

[ErikL97]

A .032" economizer jet, would block the back suction more than the stock 9n9914 jet ( .046) so mid to upper rpm range would run Richer than stock.(less back suction) (Remember the big .076 jet runs lean)
A soldered closed economizer jet ran super rich, wafting black in the exhaust.

Could pop the drag link ends off and see if spindles or steering box is the culprit.

I will have to get another jet then, or if I could find a tiny drill bit I can use that. My rebuild kit didn’t have a jet in it even checked my old carb guess my mechanic friend mis placed it I’ll have to get another one.

Do you think I would need to rebuild the steering box? If it comes to the issue?

 

[soaked]

Yes a #56 drill is .046".
Doubt the .032" jet is causing backfiring.
Have you checked the point gap?
I haven't been into a steering box for 5 years or so. Parts were available for the newer style, and not so much for the old style.
This is the newer style

 

[ErikL97]

Yes a #56 drill is .046".
Doubt the .032" jet is causing backfiring.
Have you checked the point gap?
I haven't been into a steering box for 5 years or so. Parts were available for the newer style, and not so much for the old style.
This is the newer style
View attachment 154415

No I didn’t get to the point gap today, only had maybe 30 minutes to spare only got my carb apart and had to dig around for my parts.

Put the carb back together I will find a drill bit that will drill the .046 I don’t think I have one that small one that size.

Tbh I think I have the older model steering box too

 

[ErikL97]

Yes a #56 drill is .046".
Doubt the .032" jet is causing backfiring.
Have you checked the point gap?
I haven't been into a steering box for 5 years or so. Parts were available for the newer style, and not so much for the old style.
This is the newer style
View attachment 154415

Steering is fixed, I forgot to put the bolts back in the front axle from the day I removed the bumper.

Greased all of the fittings on the front end. What is the recommended fluid for the steering box is there a plug to drain it?

 

[soaked]

Im not aware of a drain plug for 8n steering box. (there is a 1 1/4" expansion plug in the base, but no access unless the box is removed from the tractor)
Owners manual says this

Prolly make a big mess pouring down the shaft.
This is the fill bolt on early boxes, Tim Daley (RIP) suggested to drill the bolt, and thread a zerk on the end, and pump in corn head grease