Working on the '49 M.

[Kevinwterry]

Hey everyone, I decided to bring the M back into the shop to add a pair of rear wheel weights I found. I have no idea of how you guys install those things without a crane!!. I happen to have any overhead hoist and they still were tough to install. Also need to move the fenders closer to the wheels. It didnt have any, bought a new set because my small kids like to ride along. Makes it feel safer, plus it gives me something to hold onto while they drive(steer) by themselves. But its tight getting on and off right now.

Anyways, as im looking at it Im thinking about fixing the hydraulic system as well. This tractor is 1 of 2 that I actually got to drive onto the trailer out of about 20 that I own. I think I last counted 13 of them run now. We dont farm at all, have just 5 acres. I use these old tractors to pull trailers around and small jobs around the house. I didnt really look into fixing the hydraulics because I have no use for them. I recently added an aftermarket 3 point to the H, so it got me thinking.

The upper rod is stuck. The tab below it moves. The lower rod that goes into the bell housing area moves fine. On my H that rod turns on the hydraulics. So im assuming the upper does the up and down.

Also what is going on with the remotes? That lever just moves a spring. Can't tell what its supposed to do.

 

[used red MN]

The valve that the upper lever goes to is what is commonly referred to as a “Christmas tree” and yes as you stated it allows a single action belly pump the ability to provide control of double acting cylinders. That upper cavity should be oil free with a mechanism to activate the spool internally. This link has a break down diagram CNHI Farmall M hydraulics parts catalog
If you choose diagram 276 in the Hydraulic System Functional Group there it shows what is called the “break away” system to couple the hoses. The lever locks in the implement side of the connection unit, but supposedly a greater force as would be encountered by the implement disconnecting would unlock the lever to let the hoses break free. We never had any of those fancy break aways or at least they were not being used when I got to operator age in the early 60’s. We just had female threaded sleeve nuts for the Aeroquip fittings that made the connection screwing onto the male portion on the tractor side. Unless you are a sticker for original I would just install modern Pioneer type quick couplers.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Thanks for that info!! So it looks like part number 9 is likely stuck. I should be able to pull the top off and investigate.

I scrolled over to 276, and now it makes more sence. Ya, if I can get the lever to move again I'll just replace the lines and use the pioneer connections like my H has.

Thanks again!!

 

[560Dennis]

Agh, wheel weight best have a crane by you self at a 130 pounds . As you must have got it right the wheel weight only goes one way or you can get a wrench on the wheel axle clamps outside.
Suggest you not put any kids on the fender . Fender will bend out and the tire lugs will shear off the hands. Find another solution .

 

[Kevinwterry]

Agh, wheel weight best have a crane by you self at a 130 pounds . As you must have got it right the wheel weight only goes one way or you can get a wrench on the wheel axle clamps outside.
Suggest you not put any kids on the fender . Fender will bend out and the tire lugs will shear off the hands. Find another solution .

Ya those weights are awkward to install. I used the hoist to get them up and slid a long rod through the bolt hole and then hooked the hoist up to the end of the rod and pushed the weight in. Just pivoted the weight on the rod to line up the next bolt hole.

No kids on fenders, or leaning on them. They sit on my lap, or stand between my legs.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Well there's the problem!!


Got it apart, it pressed out easily. Cleaned it up a little bit, lots of pitting. Should be fine if I clean it up some more, pitting is above the "o" ring.



So i bought some extra hydraulic hoses for my homemade firewood processor I built almost ten years ago that i didnt use and have been sitting on a shelf are exactly the right hoses i need to replace. What are the odds? Lol. Score!!

 

[Kevinwterry]

I think I'll pack the top full of grease. I can see how the rainwater runs off the hood right onto this valve

 

[roper4570]

Right under the top cap you removed is a small hole to drain water and dust. Have worked on several that were blocked by rust and dirt.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Got it back together, seems like the hydraulics want to work. Don't have anything to hook up to them besides the aftermarket three point I put on the H. But when I pull on the lever the hoses flex and move.

Also made some fender extensions. Should have done this way sooner!! Makes it alot easier to get on and off the tractor. Found a 2' piece of 4" x 1/2" flat bar at the local metal recyclers for $7. I cut them to 11". Thats as long as I could go without blocking the greese zero on the axle. Drilled the holes with a 9/16" bit so I had a little wiggle room. Spacers are 5/8" tall. Already had them as leftovers from another project. Can't belive they want anywhere from $80-$150 for these extensions.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Right under the top cap you removed is a small hole to drain water and dust. Have worked on several that were blocked by rust and dirt.

I didnt see a hole. Ill go back and look. Thanks!!

 

[roper4570]

Spray some good penetrating oil in it and use a fine wire or drill bit then compress air. Check it once in a while to insure it’s open.