4610 Fuel pump leak question

[Jawjadawg]

There’s a lot of components inside the regulator assembly
View attachment 154631

Often when removing the screen (#8) it is stuck to the regulator sleeve (#6), if the sleeve comes up very far plunger (#5) and spring (#10) can drop thru the sleeve and out of place
First time I pulled the screen on the pump out in the field, plug (#9) dropped out and was lost forever. Today I remove the regulator and take it to a flat surface to work on, when reassembling often spring (#4) will drop into it’s bore sideways so another detail to pay attention to

Oh wow. Parts 9 and 10 didn’t come out when I pulled the screen. The regulator sleeve was stuck to the screen. Maybe those other parts were, too. Being outside, I did think to slide a piece of metal roofing I had up under the tractor to avoid the grass monster from eating anything. I’ll pull that whole assembly.

 

[Sean in PA]

Crank to me means turn the key. I’ve run the battery down once trying to crank it.

You just used the term "crank" to mean two different things in two consecutive sentences. If crank means to turn the key, then you can't run the battery down "trying to crank it". Either you turn the key and it cranks or it doesn't. As Yoda says, "there is no try". I think that you meant to say "start" in that second sentence instead of "crank". As showcrop said, the term "crank", to most folks on here, means for the starter to turn the engine, and "start" means for the engine to actually start. Some folks use the term "crank" to mean that the engine starts, so that is why we ask for clarification.

I do computer support for a living, and I am constantly having to ask questions for clarification when someone's original description of a problem might have more than one meaning. Don't take it personally.

 

[Jawjadawg]

These look to be the parts I have. Part # 5 is confusing. No

 

[Jawjadawg]

Alright. I removed the regulator assembly. Reassembled. Could not get all of the air out of system. Pulled the fuel filter. Picked out the o-rings. Carefully reseated those and then bled the system again. Got it to fire up. Ran well for a good period of time idling. Turned it off. Cranked again without a problem. Repeated. Closed the fuel shutoff. Cranked again and stalled very quickly. Wouldnt crank again but I didn’t try bleeding anything. I will tomorrow. I’m going to order a new fuel filter assembly. Do the ones sold by this website include the screws? The pictures don’t show any screws in the bleeder holes or attachment holes. The current fuel filter assembly is kind of corroded.

 

[Jawjadawg]

Sorry. When I say “cranked again” what I really mean is “started”.

 

[Destroked 450]

Why did you start the engine with the fuel shut off
Do not replace the fuel filter base, many of the available aftermarket filter base assemblies are not machined properly for the fuel line fittings and are known to leak

 

[Jawjadawg]

Why did you start the engine with the fuel shut off
Do not replace the fuel filter base, many of the available aftermarket filter base assemblies are not machined properly for the fuel line fittings and are known to leak

I didn’t on purpose. I’m not used to having a fuel shutoff valve on it. I had walked away and then decided to crank it again like 15 mins later just to make sure it was good and look to see if the pump was leaking. It only ran for a few seconds before it stalled. Less than 10. I remembered the valve I had replaced but couldn’t get it open in time. I was surprised there wasn’t more fuel in the line. I’ve cranked my other tractor plenty of times before remembering the fuel valve and have always been able to open the valve and keep it running.

 

[Destroked 450]

Sounds like you still have a flow issue that’s likely in the filter assembly, I’d pull the filters off m, disconnect the lines and remove the base to look thru and check each fuel passage in the base for any blockage, also check each fuel line
If all looks good remount the base and connect the line from the tank, open the tank valve and check for good flow coming out of the base. If good install the filter and open the tank valve to check flow coming off the the base, finally if you have good flow coming out of the filter connect the filter to pump line and see if it will start and run

 

[Jawjadawg]

Update: I DID get it running again and the fuel leak was noticeably horrible. I was telling the neighbor I was about to pull the pump and he suggested I pull the bottom plate to check the gasket. So I pulled the banjo bolt (I think it is the fuel inlet) and plug from the bottom side of the pump and pulled the plate off. Sure enough the gasket was shot. We tried to keep track of everything that came out but when I looked down on the ground there was a brass washer with an oring integrated in the middle. Am I correct this goes with the shorter plug nut? The only thing on the banjo bolt was an oring at the base and a oring that was left behind in the banjo bolt opening. Zero washers. The parts manual shows a washer above an oring but there wasn’t a washer when I pulled it. Is there supposed to be two orings or just one? Also, there isn’t a washer included in the rebuild kit that will both fit over the banjo bolt AND fit inside that hole. I’ve attached a picture of the banjo bolt. Note the oring at the bottom. (I didn’t want to take it off just for the picture). Am I missing anything (such as a washer) and does it matter which side of the gasket goes up? (One side is more yellow and has a slight felt feel to it.). I’m hoping the banjo bolt was redesigned with a lip in the middle that replaces the washer shown in the parts diagram.

Super irritated. I tightened everything up using two orings on the banjo bolt and the brass washer on the plug nut. Bled the system but couldn’t get it to stop pulling air at the pump bleeder screw because (I think) when I tightened down the fuel filter bleeder it would get quasi tight but wanted to keep turning. It wouldn’t snug. Fuel stopped coming out but it didn’t feel right. Decided to remove the fuel filter bleeder screw and you probably guessed it - it spins but won’t come out, either. Grrrr. I’ve ordered a new fuel filter assembly from this website but want to make sure I’ve got the necessary orings and washers in place for the next time I put the bottom of the injection pump back together.

Thank you for your expertise (and/or snide remarks)

 

[Hacke]

 

[Jawjadawg]

Thank you! There must be something wrong with my kit. There isn’t a washer that will fit over the end of the “head locating fitting” that will also fit inside that hole. I wonder do they go on the other side of the housing?

 

[Sean in PA]

If it's not a crush washer, why not use the old one?

 

[Jawjadawg]

I would if I had one. I don’t think there was one. I’ve scraped around inside the pump to see if one is stuck up inside there and doesn’t appear to be, either. Any washer that would fit inside that opening would be able to pass all the way thru anyway and then up inside the pump, otherwise it would interfere with the mating surface of the gasket that was leaking. I’ll look again later today.

 

[Jawjadawg]

For anyone who has the same problem: I’ve spoken with an older gentleman who has rebuilt these pumps. According to him, he has never seen the washer I need come in one of the rebuild kits, but he confirmed a washer is supposed to be there. He said it typically gets stuck up inside the pump when the inlet bolt is removed. I took one of the aluminum washers from the kit that fits inside the hole where the banjo bolt screws in to the bottom of the pump. I then used a round file and carefully opened up the inside of the washer until it would slide down over the middle of the banjo bolt and put the assembly back together I’ll update again in a week or so regarding effectiveness at dealing with the leak.