Hitch for Allis Chalmers WD45

[gulag1]

The point is I don't see why a JD mechanic would be afraid of an Allis Chalmers. My guess is they have all the work they want, and don't want to take on more.

Good point. I do think it’s interesting however that I haven’t been able to find a single recommendation even for an AC mechanic. Anyway, I love working on the AC so I’ll keep trying. Different problem is that I think I may have a broken linkage inside the hydraulic case between the control lever and draw control lever. Arms automatically go to the raised position when I start her up. I can manually push on the drawbar control lever to get it to lower but immediately raises again when I let go. I have an Allis Chalmers service manual from Jensales, but is there a more comprehensive one out there? Thanks for all the help.

 

[Jim.ME]

Jensales reprints manuals so it could be a reprint of the AC manual. Does your manual cover just the WD45? The AC manual I have (part # 79003405 printed March. 1979) covers the WD and WD45, The WD45 Diesel, and the D14. If it is a reprint of an original AC manual there is likely nothing more comprehensive. You might want to see if you can find a copy of the I&T manual AC-11. I&T is kind of like a Cliff's Notes version of a service manual but sometimes the info in them helps round out the AC manual, or the wording helps with understanding.

 

[4wdtom]

Good point. I do think it’s interesting however that I haven’t been able to find a single recommendation even for an AC mechanic. Anyway, I love working on the AC so I’ll keep trying. Different problem is that I think I may have a broken linkage inside the hydraulic case between the control lever and draw control lever. Arms automatically go to the raised position when I start her up. I can manually push on the drawbar control lever to get it to lower but immediately raises again when I let go. I have an Allis Chalmers service manual from Jensales, but is there a more comprehensive one out there? Thanks for all the help.

I think Jim.MEd will agree with me when I suggest you follow the procedure in the AC manual to set and adjust the pump/valve. And then there are 3 different modes the pump and valve can be set to depending on what you want the hydraulic system to do. These are explained in the manual and how to set the settings on the valve. The settings for the 3 different functions also appear in the owners manual (also available as reprint) and if it is still there, there is a decal on the side of the battery box explaining them also. As to the lever "immediately raises again when I let go", do you mean the hand control on the steering wheel quadrant, that lever? If so does it have a small spring behind it to provide friction on the quadrant to hold the lever as the throttle does on the other side?

 

[gulag1]

Thanks!. Already went through all of those including installing a new spring. Hand lever moves freely through its full motion arc and stays put, but the hydraulic raises up no matter what position the hand lever is in. I can push the drawbar control lever counter clockwise with my hand and get it to lower but it immediately pops back clockwise (to the raised position) even though the hand lever is in lower position. Not sure if that makes sense.

 

[4wdtom]

Thanks!. Already went through all of those including installing a new spring. Hand lever moves freely through its full motion arc and stays put, but the hydraulic raises up no matter what position the hand lever is in. I can push the drawbar control lever counter clockwise with my hand and get it to lower but it immediately pops back clockwise (to the raised position) even though the hand lever is in lower position. Not sure if that makes sense.

Well it does sound like a spring or adjustment is off in the pump/valve. Can you push the lift arms down after they have raised up with the hand lever in the down position? Maybe a worn leakking O ring in the valve? I'm not an expert on these, have one, have taken it apart and replaced all the O rings and it works but that was years ago. As you say you are sort of a beginner at mechanical things I am not sure I would recommend you try it yet. Although if you keep things in order, follow instructions in the AC manual, keep things spotless, and think about what you are doing you might be able to. You would need an O ring repair kit for this or have to search out the required O rings. I don't know if kits are available. A parts manual, while usually more expensive, can help with the relation of parts to each other, and alert you to missing parts. They can be very useful just for this reason.

 

[gulag1]

Thanks, 4wdtom. I will try to see if I can push them down. I have replaced gaskets on the manifold a number of times so might be able to handle this. Are you talking about O rings that would be inside the casing where the levers are attached in the picture above?

 

[4wdtom]

Thanks, 4wdtom. I will try to see if I can push them down. I have replaced gaskets on the manifold a number of times so might be able to handle this. Are you talking about O rings that would be inside the casing where the levers are attached in the picture abo

Thanks, 4wdtom. I will try to see if I can push them down. I have replaced gaskets on the manifold a number of times so might be able to handle this. Are you talking about O rings that would be inside the casing where the levers are attached in the picture above?

As I said, I am no expert on these pumps. There is O rings throughout it, in the hold position valve on top, In the hydraulic pump itself, the main body bolted to the tractor. The hydraulic pump drawbar control is on the back of the pump, I see from my parts manual there is a spring, mabye the size of a big pencil, shown in the vertical position, do you have that? It goes from a flange on the end of a lower shaft up to a small metal bracket.

 

[gulag1]

If your talking about this one, yep + just installed a new one.

 

[4wdtom]

If your talking about this one, yep + just installed a new one.View attachment 154850

Yes, it's there.

 

[DrAllis]

Do these things in order: #1. Remove the new spring you just installed. #2. With the engine off, rotate that lever CCWise until you can see the DIVOT on the side of the pump housing. You may need a flashlite to see this DIVOT. #3. Screw in the thumbscrew on the lever so the point of the thumbscrew goes into the DIVOT !! Do not over tighten or it will bend the lever. #4. Reinstall your new spring.

 

[gulag1]

Do these things in order: #1. Remove the new spring you just installed. #2. With the engine off, rotate that lever CCWise until you can see the DIVOT on the side of the pump housing. You may need a flashlite to see this DIVOT. #3. Screw in the thumbscrew on the lever so the point of the thumbscrew goes into the DIVOT !! Do not over tighten or it will bend the lever. #4. Reinstall your new spring.

Thanks! Did that one already. Still goes to raised position. I'm not a surgeon, but it just seems logical that there is something disconnected / broken in the housing body.

 

[DrAllis]

Your post says you can rotate the lever CCW and the arms will lower. When you let go of the lever they raise. You cannot have the thumbscrew tip into the divot I am talking about !!!!!!!!!

 

[gulag1]

Your post says you can rotate the lever CCW and the arms will lower. When you let go of the lever they raise. You cannot have the thumbscrew tip into the divot I am talking about !!!!!!!!!

I will look again, but unless there are two divots, it is in the one divot screwed tight. I'll do it again and take a picture.

 

[gulag1]

I will look again, but unless there are two divots, it is in the one divot screwed tight. I'll do it again and take a picture.

 

[gulag1]

I do have to push it CCW past the divot to get it to go down. I then screw it into the divot, but as soon as I fire her up, belly mower goes to the fully raised position.

 

[DrAllis]

If this is true, there's something wrong inside the pump. When that weight transfer lever thumbscrew is in the official divot and the hand lever is fully down on the quadrant, the hyd pump cannot pump oil. The color picture shown just above my post here isn't in the correct position. The way that it is will definitely pump oil. Look at the black and white picture at the top of this page. That is where your lever should be positioned for a no pumping scenario.

 

[gulag1]

DrAllis. I stand corrected. It was not correctly in the divot and once I got it there, everything stayed lowered. Now I just need to get the pump working correctly so its not stuck in raised or stuck in lowered with no way to adjust via the hand lever.

 

[gulag1]

Does anyone know where I might find a diagram of the inside of the pump and how the hand lever interfaces with its ability to pump oil? I know a little bit about hydraulic dynamics so does the hand lever act as the control valve to regulate the amount of fluid? Thus at 1/2 raised on the hand lever quad, for instance, control valve in the pump is half open or somehow proving half the fluid to the cylinder?

 

[DrAllis]

I guess I'm too stupid to understand what your problem is now ?? Hand lever clear up and the lift arms should raise. Hand lever approximately half-way on the quadrant and the pump stops lifting, but the hold valve (on top of the pump) "holds" the load where you have it. Fully down with the hand lever lowers the load. The farther up from the hold position, the more oil the hyd pump produces. The farther down from the hold position the faster the load drops.

 

[gulag1]

Yep, that's the way it should work. I'm just curious about what is actually happening in the mechanics of the pump. Since the hand lever doesn't raise or lower anything (I can only get it to lower and stay lowered by pushing the control lever by hand CCW then screwing the pin into the divot. It raises right back up if I unscrew it - doesn't matter what the hand lever position is. Adjusting the hand lever does nothing to move it up or down) that would seem to indicate that something is broken inside the pump. The hand lever not moving / adjusting a control valve in the pump?