Broken Crossmember to Reverser Bolt - John Deere 350 Dozer - How to Fix?

[bulletpruf]

I got underneath my '67 350 Straight and I was making sure all of the larger nuts and bolts were tight and I snapped a 5/8" bolt that secures the reverser to the crossmember on the right side. It's a grade 8 bolt and didn't put much pressure on it at all, so it must have been compromised and/or just barely hanging on. Anyway, the bolt goes from the bottom of the crossmember straight up into the reverser.



The bolt is snapped off about 1.5" or so deep, so I can't easily weld a nut on it to remove it. At best, I could try to weld a 7/16" bolt on it (need room so I can get a socket on it), but even that would be difficult to do given how deep it is.

I can't just thread a short bolt back into the hole and call it good because only two threads are showing.



Drilling it out does not look like it will work because the crossmember would be in the way of the drill. Might be able to do it with a 90 degree drill and a bit the right length, but that's a long way to go with a large bolt on a 90 degree drill.

I could pretend I didn't see it and just count on the other two bolts on that side of the crossmember to hold it. One of the remaining bolts goes through the crossmember into the reverser, and the other goes through the frame and the crossmember. I would have to check on these periodically to ensure they don't snap or start backing out.

I could try to grind a slot into the snapped off bolt with burr bit on a grinder and then use an impact screwdriver to try to get it moving.

I could remove the crossmember and then I'd be able to weld a washer and then a nut to the bolt and remove it, but I don't have any experience doing this, and the crossmember certainly seems like it's holding the machine together. Not sure what bracing and blocking I'd have to do to accomplish that.

I could try welding a bead from the crossmember to the reverser on the front and back of the crossmember, but that's welding cast iron to mild steel. I can weld, but I'm far from a pro, and even if I farmed this out, I think it would likely fail and/or possibly crack the reverser housing. Brazing isn't as strong, but that might be an option.





Any thoughts?

Scott

 

[joeysmith]

What about a straight drill an a long bit or bit extension to clear the cross member

Can't tell from the picture angle if that would clear or not

 

[bulletpruf]

What about a straight drill an a long bit or bit extension to clear the cross member

Can't tell from the picture angle if that would clear or not

Yes, a very long drill bit would clear, but I'm not likely to find something large enough in a left hand drill bit. I'm sure I could with a right hand drill bit, but once I drill the hole, I've still got to get the remainder of the bolt out and I'm not a big fan of easy outs.

 

[joeysmith]

Is it open on top?
Might the bolt screw out the top with a right hand bit?

 

[bulletpruf]

Is it open on top?
Might the bolt screw out the top with a right hand bit?

Not open on top.

 

[Jim.ME]

If you are going to drill it get cobalt 135-degree split point bits.

 

[JD Dave]

I would be anxious to fix it and it seems the best way is to remove the cross member. I know this is extra work but it may be the surest way to get the stub out. You would be able to soak the stub with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, get a grip on the stub and heat it from the backside.

 

[Jim.ME]

If you can get a hole up through it for an easy out, you might want to try CRC's Freeze-Off. I have heard good results from several users. I think the hole up through the broken bolt will aid its action by giving more surface for it to work on.

If that grade 8 bolt snapped that easily, I would replace all those bolts, they likely have been fatigued from movement while loose

 

[bulletpruf]

If you can get a hole up through it for an easy out, you might want to try CRC's Freeze-Off. I have heard good results from several users. I think the hole up through the broken bolt will aid its action by giving more surface for it to work on.

If that grade 8 bolt snapped that easily, I would replace all those bolts, they likely have been fatigued from movement while loose

I do have some CRC Freeze-Off. I generally use Kroil, but I can see how the freeze-off might be helpful here.

thanks

 

[Gary Reif]

Now this is just my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. If it were me I would start by using a drill bit the size of that hole in the cross member so as to start a divit in the center of the stub. That way you would have a starting place to start drilling with a smaller bit and then go progressively larger. Now i know this all depends on having access to getting a straight shot at it. As was mentioned before you may need long or short bits to clear the crossmember and there are numerous long bits and very short bits available. I'm not there so this is just a theory.

 

[bulletpruf]

Now this is just my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. If it were me I would start by using a drill bit the size of that hole in the cross member so as to start a divit in the center of the stub. That way you would have a starting place to start drilling with a smaller bit and then go progressively larger. Now i know this all depends on having access to getting a straight shot at it. As was mentioned before you may need long or short bits to clear the crossmember and there are numerous long bits and very short bits available. I'm not there so this is just a theory.

I'm thinking I can use the snapped off bolt to make a pilot and then go from there.

thanks

 

[Gary Reif]

I'm thinking I can use the snapped off bolt to make a pilot and then go from there.

thanks

View attachment 154919

I like your plan, your way ahead of me.