LET'S GET SOMETHING UNDERSTOOD HERE. THE WAY YOUR TRACTOR IS CONFIGURED (MISSING PARTS) YOU WILL HAVE TO KEEP THAT THUMBSCREW TIP IN THE DIVOT FOR ANYTHING TO EVER WORK RIGHT. SO, THE ONLY THING YOU WON'T HAVE IS TRACTION BOOSTER AND YOU AIN'T PLOWING, SO THAT'S FINE. Pumps that don't pump when they are full of oil and the hand lever clear up, generally need to be removed, stripped down, cleaned and reassembled with new Orings and whatever else might be worn. Take a gallon of gas and wash the mud out of the bottom of the sump while the pump is removed and get it CLEAN.
Speaking of feeling stupid.....now I feel really stupid. Went out to look at all the screws again and noticed that screw B, even though fully screwed out, wasn't not holding the plates together tightly. Rigged it so they held together firmly and voila, working perfectly now. All that effort and it was a sheered off tip of a screw.
You found the problem! That's great. You're on your way to being a mechanic.
Ok - hydraulics problem solved so now I'm removing the belly mower and reattaching the drawbars. Having trouble understanding where the supports on the block attach on the bottom of the 45. I looked for screw holes that would match up with those on the block supports but didn't see anything.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
I believe the block on the side of the support is more a linkage point, than a support.
The "support" goes as shown in the diagram, forward of the left and right "brackets". It is heavy and you will want to support it on a milk crate or some such. The bolt holes should be on the bottom maybe the transmission (don't remember for sure exactly where) a couple of feet forward of the left and right brackets. You may have to scrape of grease and dirt to see them if the tractor is caked/coated with such.
As the threaded holes are on the bottom of the tractor they aren't likely filled with dirt or debris but still may benefit from a good cleaning. Best with a tap but a tap is costly if you don't have one or a friend with one. A small round wire brush that fits snugly and rotated will likely clean the threads well enough. The screws should be long to engage most all of the thread in the casting/tractor. Screw them in first finger tight to check fit and depth ,and see how far they go. When they stop there should be just a little less space under the head of the screw and the casting than the combined thickness of the part to be attached and the lock washer combined. You want the screw to be as long as possible without binding in the bottom of the hole. I always put grease or anti-seize on all threads unless for some reason I use loctite. This keeps the thread from rusting, lubricates the metal on metal as you tighten them, and makes it easy to remove the next time. I have never had a nut or screw come loose form doing this.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Where the brackets attach to the underside of the tractor the areas need to be clean if you want them to stay tight. As 4wdtom posted the threads in the holes need to be clean and dry. I used a bit of blue Loctite when I replaced any of those bolts/studs to help secure them in the housings and minimize rusting.
Use a 3/4" NC tap to run up each hole. Then use spray in brake kleen and use compressed air to wash out the holes. Make sure your bolt length is as long as it can be to utilize maximum thread length of the casting. I myself would use grade 8 bolts with hardened flat washers and torque to 300 ft lbs+. Factory bolts were grade 5 with lock washers and 200 ft lbs of torque. Lock washers break, so I don't use them ever, in an important area like this. Loctite of any color is a great idea.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
See if these pictures of a WD drawbar similar to the setup on your WD45 help.
Jim has given you some good advice and information, especially with his last pictures. Just keep in mind that he said "similar". Some of his parts are not the same as stock WD/WD-45 drawbar parts. But close. Someone has made replacement parts or custom parts for some reason for the actual drawbar.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
The actual drawbar and a few related parts were missing, so it was retrofit with available pieces. Thus, that part is only similar, not the same as OEM. The main mount locations are the same, which seemed to be a question of where and how they were/went.
Agreed!
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2025 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy