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Mm 670 not charging

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manitobafarmer12

Member
Got a 670 that won't charge, have converted it from generator to a single wire delco alternator,
Alternator is new but won't exicte unless its got the battery charger on it then turned off. At a loss on whatelse to look at have my terminal 2 wire to the battery post and terminal one wired up to my solenoid on the started for 9 volts to excite it
 
manitobafarmer12 said:
Got a 670 that won't charge, have converted it from generator to a single wire delco alternator,
Alternator is new but won't exicte unless its got the battery charger on it then turned off. At a loss on whatelse to look at have my terminal 2 wire to the battery post and terminal one wired up to my solenoid on the started for 9 volts to excite it
Click to expand...
On a one-wire Delco type alternator the #1 and #2 spade terminals are not used. It only needs constant battery power at the battery post of the alternator. There should be a rubber plug over the two spade terminals to prevent access to them.

On a three-wire type the #2 spade goes to the battery post. The #1 wire should go to a switched battery power source. The terminal of the solenoid may be dropping out before the alternator is up to charging speed.

First question is which alternator do you actually have?

Does the alternator have a small diameter pulley of the right width for the tractor's belt?

Try a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the #1 spade terminal and try it. Run the engine up to half throttle. Does it charge?
 
Jim.ME said:
On a one-wire Delco type alternator the #1 and #2 spade terminals are not used. It only needs constant battery power at the battery post of the alternator. There should be a rubber plug over the two spade terminals to prevent access to them.

On a three-wire type the #2 spade goes to the battery post. The #1 wire should go to a switched battery power source. The terminal of the solenoid may be dropping out before the alternator is up to charging speed.

First question is which alternator do you actually have?

Does the alternator have a small diameter pulley of the right width for the tractor's belt?

Try a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the #1 spade terminal and try it. Run the engine up to half throttle. Does it charge?
Click to expand...
The number one wire is ran to the solenoid so it has a switched power once keys on. Have tried jumping number 1 and still nothing tractor doesn't charge at half throttle 1200 ish rpm. It's a delco 1102 480 61A.
 
You say you converted your tractor from a generator to a 1-wire alternator, then you describe wiring for a 3-wire alternator.

If you are using the small terminal on the solenoid that was intended to send power to the coil bypassing a resistor while the starter was cranking the engine, that power drops out as soon as the key is released from cranking the engine, it only has power when the starter is engaged, it does not have power from the ignition switch. It may not be turning fast enough to excite properly when the solenoid drops out, removing the power from that terminal. That is why I suggested a jumper wire from the battery to feed it as a test.

A Delco 1102480 was manufactured as a 3-wire alternator, not a one wire. Is this an alternator removed from something, or a new aftermarket rebuilt/remanufactured as a one wire. If it was a "new" alternator from a parts source, what is the brand and part number of that, not the original Delco number stamped into the case. If it was "new", did you have to take a "rubber" plug from over the spade terminals? If so, remove the two wires on the spade terminals and try it with the one heavy wire on the battery post. If it was used, did you, have it checked to see if it was working before installing it?

Where is the other end of the heavy wire on the alternator battery terminal stud connected? It should be connected to the ammeter or the battery cable post on the solenoid.
 
Jim.ME said:
You say you converted your tractor from a generator to a 1-wire alternator, then you describe wiring for a 3-wire alternator.

If you are using the small terminal on the solenoid that was intended to send power to the coil bypassing a resistor while the starter was cranking the engine, that power drops out as soon as the key is released from cranking the engine, it only has power when the starter is engaged, it does not have power from the ignition switch. It may not be turning fast enough to excite properly when the solenoid drops out, removing the power from that terminal. That is why I suggested a jumper wire from the battery to feed it as a test.

A Delco 1102480 was manufactured as a 3-wire alternator, not a one wire. Is this an alternator removed from something, or a new aftermarket rebuilt/remanufactured as a one wire. If it was a "new" alternator from a parts source, what is the brand and part number of that, not the original Delco number stamped into the case. If it was "new", did you have to take a "rubber" plug from over the spade terminals? If so, remove the two wires on the spade terminals and try it with the one heavy wire on the battery post. If it was used, did you, have it checked to see if it was working before installing it?

Where is the other end of the heavy wire on the alternator battery terminal stud connected? It should be connected to the ammeter or the battery cable post on the solenoid.
Click to expand...
It's a new alternator 7127-3 1 005. There was no rubber plug over the spade terminals I've tried it with one heavy wire to the battery post and nothing. The wire off the battery stud goes to the starter solenoid for power
 
To be clear.

The heavy wire from the battery post on the alternator goes to the same post of the solenoid as the positive cable from the battery. Is this correct?

How are you testing to see if it is charging?
Looking at the tractor ammeter or with a voltmeter at the battery terminals?
 
Jim.ME said:
To be clear.

The heavy wire from the battery post on the alternator goes to the same post of the solenoid as the positive cable from the battery. Is this correct?

How are you testing to see if it is charging?
Looking at the tractor ammeter or with a voltmeter at the battery terminals?
Click to expand...
Yes that's right heavy wire from alternator goes to the same post as positive battery cable. Testing with a voltmeter at battery terminals
 
manitobafarmer12 said:
Yes that's right heavy wire from alternator goes to the same post as positive battery cable. Testing with a voltmeter at battery terminals
Click to expand...
Ok.

If it won't charge with a jumper wire direct from the battery positive post to the #1 spade terminal I would suspect a bad alternator, provided the belt is not slipping and you have run it up the full rpm range as a test.
 
Jim.ME said:
Ok.

If it won't charge with a jumper wire direct from the battery positive post to the #1 spade terminal I would suspect a bad alternator, provided the belt is not slipping and you have run it up the full rpm range as a test.
Click to expand...
It'll charge with the battery charger on boost and then shut the charger off it'll stay charging. Just won't excite, if I have the volt meter on the battery and put 12volts to the #1 I can see it charge then cut out l
 
Your current description sounds like a bad regulator in the alternator.

Check to see if the battery wire on the alternator is showing battery voltage, it should be the same or very close when stopped.
 
You have the small diameter pulley, and you say the width is correct. If the alternator needs 1850 rpm to start charging you will need to speed your engine pretty well up to full throttle to get it to kick in. There could still be an issue with the alternator/regulator. Not knowing where you got it, can you take it back to them and have it tested?

Your other option would be to find one of the 1-wire alternators that will start charging at a low rpm and correctly wire it as a one wire without using the spade terminals.
 
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