Ford 3000? Ford 3600? Maybe both! Please advise the tractor green horn!

[JimmyG9146]

I waiting on clutch parts to get it back together. trying to fill my time till then so working on the paint that im going to do on this one. As I said earlier this tractor will go right back to working cutting a yard/field so didn't want to get to carried away but this will really improve its appearance without to much effort. Don't look to close! I painted with a brush so it's not show worthy but with the new sticker I have coming from the host will really help the way it looks. Have to be real carful now with the reassembly.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Picked up a bushing driver kit today used red. I have not needed one till now but there's always a way to buy a new tool huh!
It will be good to have. I have lost about a week trying to get all the stuff together. Im sure if I do a tractor for myself it will move much faster and I will gain experience green horning this one up.
I guess I will go the welding route Ultradog. I am going to wait to get my parts in so I can get the I.D. measurement on the bushing and try my local guy to see how he feels about doing that. My guess is you're correct. This is Peach county in Alabama so he probably could do that blindfolded. Lots of tractors around here.I will keep plugging away at what I can accomplish cleaning and prepping and even a little paining for the next 4-5 days. I will get you guys thoughts in a couple days. The encouragement here is valuable to me.

You may have better luck using the original shaft to drive the bushings in. It will take two hands hold at one and hit at 2. Once one its installed the first bushing in will act as an alignment point for the other.

I would over complicated this and went to the lathe and made a special driver for the job. Before I got a lathe I made a many drivers out of a cat 1 are 2 draw hitch pin, tape and washer.

 

[JimmyG9146]

Thanks for the advice! I will look back at this when the tool gets here. For some reason I have not needed that tool for my auto repairs so need it anyway but this is definitely new territory for me but I am enjoying this work. May do another one later.

BTW.. I need these 2 O rings. I looked at the parts site here and did not see them. As it seems I have looked right over parts here because im new to this. I hate to get y'all to hold my hand but anyone know these 2 O rings right off? They may not be flat but not worth the risk so I would just prefer to replace.

 

[Destroked 450]

It’s not that simple, there are 2 different outer seals a 4 different inner seals depending on which pump you have
There should be a tag on the pump with a D4NN or E1NN prefix number, you need this before you can get the correct seals

 

[Hobo,NC]

It would not surprise me if they were not the same as the power steering pump internal O-rings. From an engineering standpoint why engineer something you already got/use/on the shelf. They will come as a standard round O-ring, I put a small drop of supper glue on one side in a few places to hold them in place.

 

[Fordfarmer]

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about some slop there. It won't affect your clutching ability.
But if you want it fixed and can't find a new one, your idea of welding it up and turning it back to specs is a simple job that anyone with a lathe and welder could do.
Where are you located ? Maybe add a location to your profile? Doesn't have to be your home address. Something like TX panhandle, Upper Thumb, MI, Oregon coast or The Bluegrass State at least gives folks a hint.
If you are close to the Twin Cities I could do that job for you.

A retired machinist neighbor welded up and turned down the clutch shaft from my 4600 when I put a new clutch in it. 8500+ hours at that point, and many years of loader work.

 

[Fordfarmer]

That's great help! I just completely misread the entire code apparently. I thought it was a 70 model also.I am glad to know that its a 3600 with a newer motor for the future if need be.I hope you guys stay with me on this one because I am running into new territory on this project!
First thing I am waiting for is the clutch. Watched several videos and the recommendation was to tear it down and look. seems wise to me so that's what we did and it has been ordered so hopefully it will be here soon. Worked around it today and first cleaned out the bell housing to start and removed the shaft and bearing carrier and I believe there are bushings that will need to be replaced and would love for you guys to look and see what you think.The shaft may need replacement also. Don't know. Also how do you get those out!
Also have a pic from the rear. Might help in identification of the engine. I have a rear seal coming. Hope I got the right one!
View attachment 154724View attachment 154725View attachment 154726View attachment 154727View attachment 154728View attachment 154729View attachment 154730View attachment 154731View attachment 154732
I also got the flywheel back from my guy here. He took 10 off and it should be smooth without any shutter when I get to that point
View attachment 154733

This tractor will go straight back in service so I don't want to spend a bunch of time on dolling it up but just a couple days to brighten the paint up in the visible areas while Im waiting on parts I thought would be a good idea. Will look great from 30 feet! Going to order a new sticker too now that I know what Im working on.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the "frost" plugs. Good idea to change the ones at the rear of the block and head while it's split. Sucks to have them rust through after it's all back together.

 

[JimmyG9146]

There's no tag on the pump unfortunately. I looked all over the casting and did not find anything. I will have to produce a number tag when I get done. What other ways are there?

 

[used red MN]

It’s not that simple, there are 2 different outer seals a 4 different inner seals depending on which pump you have
There should be a tag on the pump with a D4NN or E1NN prefix number, you need this before you can get the correct seals

DS, those seals per the parts diagram look like they are in the gear style pump. Are you saying there are two styles of gear pumps or are you differentiating between the gear and the piston type pumps?
Here is a link to what looks like the location of those seal/orings in the online parts catalogs for the gear pump. CNHI Ford 3600N hyd. pump parts Part key 7 & 8 and there is 2 of each required due to dual locations.

 

[Destroked 450]

There are 2 gear pumps, his should have the D4NN pump as the E1NN is a 81 model design
However we don’t know if it has it’s original pump or a aftermarket
They do look similar to ones in a power steering pump but that’s a much larger pump

 

[Hobo,NC]

-134 and a -145 duro 90. they are the same as used in the power steering pump : ) No they will not come formed they will be a common round o-ring duro 90

 

[Destroked 450]

You are correct I thought they would be larger

 

[Hobo,NC]

You are correct I thought they would be larger

New on the left old on the right I think the pix make it look bigger.

 

[JimmyG9146]

Ok... Got distracted by a dishwasher failure and replacement.
The clutch, clutch bushings were delivered today and some other parts, so going to the machine shop in the morning to get that repaired and also press on the throw out to the carrier. Will be back to studying the seals for the hydro pump also. Need to get those on the way too. Will be back on track tomorrow to get the tractor moving forward and getting closer to finished!

 

[JimmyG9146]

Hobo Im sure they are not that expensive to get both. Do you by chance have the part numbers for those?

 

[Hobo,NC]

used red MN posted the link to them #7 & 8. I posted the generic O-ring number -134 and a -145 duro 90. Depending on where you live someone may stock O-rings. There is a local mill supply house (industrial supply) in my hood they have a good selection of O-rings.​

 

[JimmyG9146]

OK will do. should have looked back in the thread! lost track.

 

[Hobo,NC]

OK will do. should have looked back in the thread! lost track.

10-4. I don't like paying $5 for a 10 cent O-ring wink wink. When you install this O-ring it should fit well it should not seam to be to short are to long. The first ones I brought I was interested to see if they came formed they did not they were a common round O-ring.

Times have changed 10 cents I should say a buck.

 

[JimmyG9146]

No doubt Hobo! The cost has risen faster than my income stream! I will take the time to look at that problem very soon.
The problem at this moment because Im new to tractors is a part purchasing mistake. Take a look and see what y'all think about the tractor disk and the plate to see if I can use this or do I need to correct. I measured out the one that came out with the spring loaded disk and it is the same within a couple MM so it could be reused. It was the PTO internal clutch that got smoked that needed replacing.
Today's work is to figure out how to replace the trans seals in the bell. The Ford shop manual did not have very detailed instructions for a greenhorn but I will give it a go just the same. Then the rear crank seal, and super heavy flywheel. I have some help once this is all complete to put the halves back together.
The bushings for the clutch shaft are in and ready. The shaft is at the machine shop to get remade to spec and hopefully will be back by tomorrow. He is also pressing the throw out onto the carrier. It looks slightly different but I think its fine.
Please take a look and see what all of your experience thinks of this

 

[Destroked 450]

I like a spring hub disc myself but either will work
The transmission seals are fairly easy to replace. No need to remove the large cover, just remove the 5 bolts holding the nose cone and pto drive in place, tap sideways on the nose cone a couple times to loosen the gasket seal then slid the assembly off the transmission input shaft. Remove the internal snap ring in the back off the nose cone to remove the transmission input shaft, I hold on to the nose cone and smack the input down against a block of wood to separate them. The large seal is inside the nose cone and the small seal is inside the pto input
There is a weep hole in the nose cone, when reinstalling the assembly the weep hole needs to be turned to the bottom side