Is it possible to switch a side mount 8N block to a front mount setup?

[steveh1155]

Excellent! You got the knack.
Rebuilding the oil pump too?
Cutting valve seats?

Yeah, I've thought about the oil pump. When I grabbed the gear on the pump, I noticed it has a slight wobble. I'll have to take it apart to see if I have the large or the small gear, I think the rebuild kits are different somehow. As to the valves, I have a Neway cutter with the 3 angled cutters, so I'll cut the valve seats. Looks like plenty of meat left on the seat inserts.

 

[soaked]

Yeah, I've thought about the oil pump. When I grabbed the gear on the pump, I noticed it has a slight wobble. I'll have to take it apart to see if I have the large or the small gear, I think the rebuild kits are different somehow. As to the valves, I have a Neway cutter with the 3 angled cutters, so I'll cut the valve seats. Looks like plenty of meat left on the seat inserts.

If getting new gears, make sure the new ones are not too short.
Early pumps have 9/16" gears, and later 8ns have 3/4" gears.( actual dimension should be .724"-.725")

Neway=is the goodway.

Took a look at two sidemount flywheels.
Noticed that a diameter going through two bolt holes, happens to pass between one set of clutch mounting bolts. ( same on both ) Measures 8 ° on the stamped timing marks. So its 7/8" back to 0°, and 1 1/4" to the 20° mark.
The red tube caps mark the two dowel peg locations. Steel ruler is balanced on the 8° line, centered on the 12 and 6 oclock bolts, and pilot hole.
The sidemount is on the right, and it appears to me, that the unmarked front mount flywheel on the left shares the same 8°diameter.

Maybe this can corroborate a tdc reading on yours.

 

[R Geiger]

I have a 8N with a industrial engine in it. It is a side dist block with a magneto ignition system.

 

[Kirk -NJ]

Converted this '48 8n from front mount to side mount so don't see why you couldn't do the reverse. More trouble than it's worth IMO

 

[steveh1155]

Since I'm swapping the camshaft out of the front mount engine into the newer side mount engine to accommodate the front mount distributor, does this require align boring the camshaft on the new block? I think I'm okay on the crankshaft since its original to that side mount engine and all the bearing shells looked to still be in decent shape.

 

[soaked]

Since I'm swapping the camshaft out of the front mount engine into the newer side mount engine to accommodate the front mount distributor, does this require align boring the camshaft on the new block? I think I'm okay on the crankshaft since its original to that side mount engine and all the bearing shells looked to still be in decent shape.

Don't need to align bore/hone the block for a cam swap.
Ive heard of guys machining the camshaft bearing surface on the BLOCK, then adding replaceable bearing shells...
When an oil pump body gets ruined, putting in a new pump/main cap does require an align bore/hone job.

 

[steveh1155]

Progress finally made. It took me all of just a few minutes to unbolt the engine from the bell housing. I was planning on getting a new clutch kit and I see the one available on this website is about the cheapest available anywhere. Anybody ever have any issues with the kits from YT? The old pressure plate with that red paint makes me think it an OEM Ford part, but I'm guessing those aren't available anywhere anymore. One difference I see is that the old pressure plate has adjustable fingers that screw in and out whereas the replacement doesn't, at least not the 9-inch clutch.

 

[8NChris]

The way things are with parts these days you might be better off having your clutch rebuilt. Set up a dial caliper on the block where you can rotate the three fingers underneath it to set for a smooth operating clutch.

 

[soaked]

The last clutch I bought here worked just fine. Was about 3 years ago. Didnt have adjustable finger bolts.
Just a suggestion, dont change the eyebolt screw ajustment on the outside of the belhousing. Doing so could help the new clutch to not fully release. Wait to see if it works.
Edit:
Take note of the clutch hub before taking apart. If the clutch disk is put in backwards. The clutch wont release. Take pics before and after.

 

[steveh1155]

I got the clutch and flywheel off yesterday, that flywheel is heavy! I noticed the flywheel surface is smooth, no grooves, however the flywheel surface has a mirror finish on it. Not going to have it ground, I don't think it needs it, but I am thinking maybe it's best to take some emery cloth and get rid of that shiny glaze. I found a source for the clutch pressure plates with the adjustable fingers and after I get it mounted, I'll take the suggestion of using my dial indicator with a mag base and verify they're all at the same height.

 

[Kondoge]

I got the clutch and flywheel off yesterday, that flywheel is heavy! I noticed the flywheel surface is smooth, no grooves, however the flywheel surface has a mirror finish on it. Not going to have it ground, I don't think it needs it, but I am thinking maybe it's best to take some emery cloth and get rid of that shiny glaze. I found a source for the clutch pressure plates with the adjustable fingers and after I get it mounted, I'll take the suggestion of using my dial indicator with a mag base and verify they're all at the same height.

if shiny is bad I'm starting to think my bellhousing full of chunks of flaking rust and goop ain't that bad.