Drained oil in front axle of my John Deere 6300, now I can't get the filler plug off to refill.

On things like this I’ve always tried Kroil penetrating oil first. If that doesn’t work heat the plug cherry red and let it cool naturally. We cool to touch hit with a good size hammer several times. If still won’t budge I go with soaking it again with Kroil. Good luck!
 
Third day of soaking, impact drive and big hammer. The plug is out and axle is refilled. Thanks, everyone one for ideas. I have yet to justify a good torch on my farm and I lost the body man next door to a heart attack, he was a good friend for 47 years and we could fix almost anything in his shop. Working my sons into running the farm and it was the eldest that dropped the oil first, he was laid off by a company moving this spring so has run the cattle part.
 
Glad you got it out. In case this comes up for someone else in the future. What type of plug is it? Pipe or one of the ones with an O-ring or sealing washer under the hex head?
 
Third day of soaking, impact drive and big hammer. The plug is out and axle is refilled. Thanks, everyone one for ideas. I have yet to justify a good torch on my farm and I lost the body man next door to a heart attack, he was a good friend for 47 years and we could fix almost anything in his shop. Working my sons into running the farm and it was the eldest that dropped the oil first, he was laid off by a company moving this spring so has run the cattle part.
Glad you got it loose. A little grease or never-sieze type product on the plug threads helps make them easier to remove the next time.

When heating with a torch, melting a little wax, paraffin, or crayon into the threads can also help break a bolt or plug loose.
 
BMHLarry has not replied but I believe the plug in question is hex head, straight thread, and has an o-ring or sealing washer under the head. If that is correct, Penetrating oil, beeswax, etc., will have little if any effect on it. I may be wrong, however I doubt rust was the problem. I have encounter a number of that style plug and a few blows from a hammer then application of force gets them out. No rusting, just stuck. JMHO
 
Once you get an oxyacetylene rig you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. It's an absolutely essential tool for working on old iron.
that is some what true. I used to have a torch but used it so little and the cost of rentig tanks was to much. I have not had a torch now for over 10 years and do not miss it. I have learnt that if it needs heat I can get away with a small hand held torch, tiger torch or 2 electric heat guns. I have started using toilet bowl cleaner to desolve the rust and then a heat gun and wax is almost always enough. also I do not have days of patients so the toilet bowl cleaner works but reapply every 2-3 minutes and wash with wd40 before doing any wrenching. I am very carfull not to get it splashing where it might land on me or in my face. that is the worst part of acid. you must work slow and carfull.
 
that is some what true. I used to have a torch but used it so little and the cost of rentig tanks was to much. I have not had a torch now for over 10 years and do not miss it. I have learnt that if it needs heat I can get away with a small hand held torch, tiger torch or 2 electric heat guns. I have started using toilet bowl cleaner to desolve the rust and then a heat gun and wax is almost always enough. also I do not have days of patients so the toilet bowl cleaner works but reapply every 2-3 minutes and wash with wd40 before doing any wrenching. I am very carfull not to get it splashing where it might land on me or in my face. that is the worst part of acid. you must work slow and carfull.
Never heard the TB cleaner trick but I will try it. And nothing against heat but I try to slow down. Bought new fire extinguishers and fire blankets this year. Jim very well could be right and heat could melt an o ring though I never thought of it.
 
Morning guys, the plug was straight thread with a fine O-ring, I had been warned by the parts man at John Deere not to heat to hot or I'd be replacing the O-ring. The plug had a half inch square hole for removal or tightening, the surface was flush with the axle face. I didn't know if I could post pictures yet.
 
Morning guys, the plug was straight thread with a fine O-ring, I had been warned by the parts man at John Deere not to heat to hot or I'd be replacing the O-ring. The plug had a half inch square hole for removal or tightening, the surface was flush with the axle face. I didn't know if I could post pictures yet.
That is the type plug I expected. They can be a pain to break free.

The old requirement of having to have a certain number of posts before you could add pictures went away several years ago, you can post pictures of total size of up to 7MB. That is for one picture or the total of several in one post.
 
Once you get an oxyacetylene rig you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. It's an absolutely essential tool for working on old iron.
I second what Mark said. I don't use my touch much anymore but I had to replace the spindle on my LandPride finish mower. there was a threaded part on the old spindle that had not been off in over 20 years. Hammer, air hammer, pipe wrench and ever cussed at it. It would not budge. So a few minuets of heat from the rosebud and a hit with a 4 lb hammer off it spun. I would not want to be without it on the farm.
 
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