MF 65 power adjust rim replacement

dkarten

New User
I have new rim with mounted tire, complete old wheel & tire off tractor , trying to separate hub from rim, all clamps rusted so I have removed all 8 carriage bolts that hold hub to rim & trying to separate & will work on clamps when hub is out of the way, soaked everything with Kroil multiple times & have managed to open small gap between 2 of the clamps (where the carriage bolts go through) & rim. Have not applied heat yet and have question, with the 8 carriage bolts removed the only thing holding hub to rim is rust, correct?
These are probably original tires & wheels on a 1960 MF65 so have been on & rusting for 66 years!
 
lay the tire down with the clamps facing up. A block of hard wood, on the wheel center (that is what you are trying to remove, not the hub) next to a couple of the eccentric clamps, then use a good sized sledgehammer to hit the blocks to force the center down.
 
Thx Eric, block of wood worked & wheel center is off , going to clean up clamps & reassemble, might have more questions

Both rims are heavily corroded around valve stem from calcium chloride, on this one the valve stem/inner tube connection came apart & I had a flat, before winter I’ll do other side
 
I had to roast mine pretty good to get them working correctly on my 65 High Arch. I got them working too good now they do not want to stay tight. On my 65 standard I solved the issue with tires and rims from an AC K.
 
I have soaked adjusters in Kroil & dunked in vinegar but no movement yet, getting ready to heat with Oxy-Acetylene but want to know if I can just reassemble as is? I never have reason to use adjusters. Would I be able to reassemble with frozen adjusters?
 
I have soaked adjusters in Kroil & dunked in vinegar but no movement yet, getting ready to heat with Oxy-Acetylene but want to know if I can just reassemble as is? I never have reason to use adjusters. Would I be able to reassemble with frozen adjusters?
You could have a fight getting the wheel lined up straight on the center.

Some guys on the unofficial allis site have mentioned putting the whole thing in a fire to heat them. I have used a torch to heat and free them up. Be careful of the wire type lock ring on the end without a head. If you lose or damage one sometimes you can use an external snap ring in place of the ring
 
Soak it with brake fluid. We had a screw jack on a disc that wouldn’t move even heat didn’t help. I asked dad if he had tried brake fluid? The answer was he never thought about that. Who do you think a 9 yr old heard about it in the first place? He dropped me at church and when he picked me
Up an hour later the screw was free!
 
Thx Jim, very useful information , I’ll post after the fire!
the lock ring is # 20 in the picture (and it might be gone now). Do not lose the locks, #21, in the picture.
 

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Thx for all suggestions, soaked adjusters in diesel then heated with torch, I successfully freed up all 4 adjusters, didn’t lose the locks, one circlip was missing, found replacement, painted & anti-seized ready for reassembly
Any advice on how to start?
 
So you mean the flat part of #21, correct?

How about procedure to start, do I install one adjuster & then fit the rim , hold in place then fit a second adjuster, then work my way around to other 2 adjusters?
 
Yes, #21

Put one or two adjusters on the center at the top. With the axle lowered a bit, tip the tire on over the adjuster(s) and catch a rail(s). Put the rail stops each side of one top adjuster that is at the tread width you want, so the rail doesn't move too far on you as you get the others in place. You can then jack the axle up to lift the tire, letting it swing in under the center to install the other adjusters on the center. Once you have the four adjusters in place put a block or something near the edge of the tire and turn the tire by that object. Use it to align the tire so that it runs true. you can lightly snug the adjuster to hold the tire as you align it, Fully tighten the eccentrics once you have the tire running true
 
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