MF 65 power adjust rim replacement

dkarten

New User
I have new rim with mounted tire, complete old wheel & tire off tractor , trying to separate hub from rim, all clamps rusted so I have removed all 8 carriage bolts that hold hub to rim & trying to separate & will work on clamps when hub is out of the way, soaked everything with Kroil multiple times & have managed to open small gap between 2 of the clamps (where the carriage bolts go through) & rim. Have not applied heat yet and have question, with the 8 carriage bolts removed the only thing holding hub to rim is rust, correct?
These are probably original tires & wheels on a 1960 MF65 so have been on & rusting for 66 years!
 
lay the tire down with the clamps facing up. A block of hard wood, on the wheel center (that is what you are trying to remove, not the hub) next to a couple of the eccentric clamps, then use a good sized sledgehammer to hit the blocks to force the center down.
 
Thx Eric, block of wood worked & wheel center is off , going to clean up clamps & reassemble, might have more questions

Both rims are heavily corroded around valve stem from calcium chloride, on this one the valve stem/inner tube connection came apart & I had a flat, before winter I’ll do other side
 
I had to roast mine pretty good to get them working correctly on my 65 High Arch. I got them working too good now they do not want to stay tight. On my 65 standard I solved the issue with tires and rims from an AC K.
 
I have soaked adjusters in Kroil & dunked in vinegar but no movement yet, getting ready to heat with Oxy-Acetylene but want to know if I can just reassemble as is? I never have reason to use adjusters. Would I be able to reassemble with frozen adjusters?
 
I have soaked adjusters in Kroil & dunked in vinegar but no movement yet, getting ready to heat with Oxy-Acetylene but want to know if I can just reassemble as is? I never have reason to use adjusters. Would I be able to reassemble with frozen adjusters?
You could have a fight getting the wheel lined up straight on the center.

Some guys on the unofficial allis site have mentioned putting the whole thing in a fire to heat them. I have used a torch to heat and free them up. Be careful of the wire type lock ring on the end without a head. If you lose or damage one sometimes you can use an external snap ring in place of the ring
 
Soak it with brake fluid. We had a screw jack on a disc that wouldn’t move even heat didn’t help. I asked dad if he had tried brake fluid? The answer was he never thought about that. Who do you think a 9 yr old heard about it in the first place? He dropped me at church and when he picked me
Up an hour later the screw was free!
 
Thx Jim, very useful information , I’ll post after the fire!
the lock ring is # 20 in the picture (and it might be gone now). Do not lose the locks, #21, in the picture.
 

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