Oliver 77 diesel

[Stanley996]

Hi, so I swapped the head on my injector pump angetting fuel to the top 3 ports but only cylinder 1 is firing. The one below 1 gets fuel but only when spinning fast it seems and the other 2 aren’t getting any fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tramway Guy]

The head is probably worn to the point that fuel is leaking between the barrel and plunger. And if one IS firing, it may be because the opening pressure on that nozzle is lower than the ones that are not working.

 

[Stanley996]

The head is probably worn to the point that fuel is leaking between the barrel and plunger. And if one IS firing, it may be because the opening pressure on that nozzle is lower than the ones that are not working.

Is there anyway to check this

 

[scootergmc]

You're using terms like "top three ports" for an injection pump of which the head has six outlets to six lines for six cylinders. The injectors are themselves another thing. Are you getting fuel from the pump through the lines to the injectors? You will not be able to test the injectors themselves without (probably needing) a slide hammer or puller to remove them from the head and access to an injector stand to check for pressure/pattern.

For what it's worth, we just junked a 77 or 88 diesel that had been sitting for decades. The injectors came out hard and the couple I tested did not test well at all. I'm not saying you're fighting a losing battle trying to piece it together, but you're probably fighting a losing battle. If I were in your shoes, I'd find a place to send that pump and injectors and have them all rebuilt to original specs. You're going to save time in the long run. But you'll have to ask yourself what time and money you're willing to put into a tractor which may or may not run once you have a fresh fuel system. Are you assuming the rest of the tractor is fine? Running/driving Oliver 77 diesels can be had for a couple grand if the cost analysis means anything to you. Now if it's a family heirloom, that's another story.

Hang on- going back to my first paragraph and reviewing your other threads (it would be easier if you just kept replying to your old thread instead of a new one), do you even have a Bosch PSB injection pump? Or is your tractor retrofitted with a Stanadyne/Roosa Master pump, which would make more sense since you keep using terms like top three ports/bottom port?

 

[Stanley996]

You're using terms like "top three ports" for an injection pump of which the head has six outlets to six lines for six cylinders. The injectors are themselves another thing. Are you getting fuel from the pump through the lines to the injectors? You will not be able to test the injectors themselves without (probably needing) a slide hammer or puller to remove them from the head and access to an injector stand to check for pressure/pattern.

For what it's worth, we just junked a 77 or 88 diesel that had been sitting for decades. The injectors came out hard and the couple I tested did not test well at all. I'm not saying you're fighting a losing battle trying to piece it together, but you're probably fighting a losing battle. If I were in your shoes, I'd find a place to send that pump and injectors and have them all rebuilt to original specs. You're going to save time in the long run. But you'll have to ask yourself what time and money you're willing to put into a tractor which may or may not run once you have a fresh fuel system. Are you assuming the rest of the tractor is fine? Running/driving Oliver 77 diesels can be had for a couple grand if the cost analysis means anything to you. Now if it's a family heirloom, that's another story.

Hang on- going back to my first paragraph and reviewing your other threads (it would be easier if you just kept replying to your old thread instead of a new one), do you even have a Bosch PSB injection pump? Or is your tractor retrofitted with a Stanadyne/Roosa Master pump, which would make more sense since you keep using terms like top three ports/bottom port?

It’s a Bosch psb 6a pump. I believe the hydraulic head I put on it is worn since the other lines that get fuel aren’t getting pressure. I swapped the old head for this one. It’s kinda family heirloom. It was sold from my grandfathers dealership.

 

[tom upton]

In addition to what scootergmc said you should pull energy cells as well as they could very well be plugged up/dirty or leaking past the lapped surface. But that is probably the least of your problems. I have never had a stuck engine that didnt need an overhaul anyway? If you are not fussy on using the original engine it would most likely be a whole lot cheaper to pick up a running replacement engine. You can make just about any Oliver/Waukeshaw engine fit in that tractor. Heck stick a 310 in it and go tractor pulling!

 

[Stanley996]

In addition to what scootergmc said you should pull energy cells as well as they could very well be plugged up/dirty or leaking past the lapped surface. But that is probably the least of your problems. I have never had a stuck engine that didnt need an overhaul anyway? If you are not fussy on using the original engine it would most likely be a whole lot cheaper to pick up a running replacement engine. You can make just about any Oliver/Waukeshaw engine fit in that tractor. Heck stick a 310 in it and go tractor pulling!

I know I can do that but at this point it’s mostly my curiosity as to what’s wrong. I’ve tried a second hydraulic head and I’m getting g the same result as the first one.

 

[used red MN]

Is there anyway to check this

Hello Stanley, welcome to YT! Yes, but the path there is a little bumpy. That can be checked on an IJP test stand. When a pump tech puts a pump on a test stand it likely has just been apart and it is clean as a whistle inside. So that means there is a minimal chance of contamination of the test fluid in the stand. In your case the pump is full of fuel of an unknown cleanliness, so the tech will not want to run that pump on his stand and contaminate his test fluid. Sure he can dump most of it out but likely some will remain. Secondly, not many pump guys like to follow up a “shade tree” assembly, which equal more bumps. They would rather apply their time to working on pumps they know are assembled with by a trained person who knows precisely what they are doing.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Like he said. Send it in.
Mylex international in Mississippi
Spencer diesel in iowa both had a hand in reviving my 880 pump. 1958.
GG Wes

 

[Stanley996]

So follow up. I’m getting fuel to all injectors now but one when I bleed it keeps having bubbles (air) coming out and it still won’t start. How long should it take to bleed the line.

 

[GermantownGreen]

So follow up. I’m getting fuel to all injectors now but one when I bleed it keeps having bubbles (air) coming out and it still won’t start. How long should it take to bleed the line.

Sounds like you have a leaking fitting somewhere. It shouldn't take too long to get lines cracked and bled out. GG

Forgot, if you have the tank on, wrap a clean shop rag around your air blower tip, inject air into the tank while trying to bleed lines, maybe you'll see or hear the other leaky place?

 

[Stanley996]

Sounds like you have a leaking fitting somewhere. It shouldn't take too long to get lines cracked and bled out. GG

Forgot, if you have the tank on, wrap a clean shop rag around your air blower tip, inject air into the tank while trying to bleed lines, maybe you'll see or hear the other leaky place?

Put the air gun in the top of the tank? I’ll give it a try. I think it might be the bleeder on top of my fuel filter would that cause it?

 

[GermantownGreen]

Put the air gun in the top of the tank? I’ll give it a try. I think it might be the bleeder on top of my fuel filter would that cause it?

Yes put the air gun with a rag around it in top of the tank, to pressure the fuel system, maybe you can hear a hissing wherever it's drawing air into the system? Just a thought. GG

 

[Stanley996]

Thank you. I’ll try it. I noticed today that the bleeder screw on the fuel filter was wet around it but it’s as tight as it can get. Could that be the cause.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Thank you. I’ll try it. I noticed today that the bleeder screw on the fuel filter was wet around it but it’s as tight as it can get. Could that be the cause.

May need to replace an o ring there? Not sure if there was one.
Might be your problem point. GG

 

[Stanley996]

I

May need to replace an o ring there? Not sure if there was one.
Might be your problem point. GG

swapped the whole pump and am now getting fuel. I just need to bleed it.

 

[Stanley996]

I was wondering how I time the engine to the pump. I got fuel coming from all cylinders and bled them and I have the pump mark timed to the fp mark on the flywheel like the book says but won’t start just white smoke.

 

[Dieseltech]

Sounds like pump to engine timing is 180 degrees out of time. Reset the timing, remove the PUMP gear, turn pump ONE TURN and install the gear and reset timing. That pump turns ENGINE SPEED, hydraulic head turns 1/2 engine speed like engine CAMSHAFT does. The CAM determines which cylinder is ready to fire.

 

[Stanley996]

Sounds like pump to engine timing is 180 degrees out of time. Reset the timing, remove the PUMP gear, turn pump ONE TURN and install the gear and reset timing. That pump turns ENGINE SPEED, hydraulic head turns 1/2 engine speed like engine CAMSHAFT does. The CAM determines which cylinder is ready to fire.

So just turn the engine one more time back to .FP or a different mark?

 

[Dieseltech]

Back to FIRE POINT, REMOVE the pump gear, turn pump drive hub ONE TURN, and replace the gear on the hub again with the HUB MARK aligned with the pointer.