1965 D15 Power Steering And Governor

[8NChris]

Hello, it's a gas engine. It sat for a while before I bought it. Just bought it to lift materials up and let trash down from my roof. After a while of putting around the house a couple of problems developed. Gradually the engine speed got to where RPM's are all in just under ¼ throttle and it has a pretty good leak from the pitman seal. Tool wise I'm set up for most anything automotive and truck. Can I borrow a couple of page scans or am I better off with the books on this one?
Thanks,
Questions:
1-Does this governor have balls inside of it like the Ford 8N or is it like the governor in an automotive transmission?

2-It looks like I can make the flange gasket and replace the pitman seal. Is it pretty straightforward or am I going to dump a bunch of power steering internals on my head in the process?

 

[DrAllis]

No. It does not have balls like a Ford governor. Before you get into something you know nothing about, check the adjustment of the governor linkage, as this is many times what is wrong: Engine OFF. Hand throttle wide open. Remove left hood. Above the generator is the governor linkage. Remove the cotter pin from the carburetor link rod and let the link rod drop out of the governors cross arm hole. The length of the link rod should be so it will slide right back into the governor cross arm hole. If the link rod is too short, remove it and take out some of the kinks to make it longer so it will match up with the hole. The pitman seal?????what are you talking about?? The swing arm for a wide front end under the radiator?? No gaskets there. There is an oil seal that isn't easy to do in-chassis.

 

[8NChris]

check the adjustment of the governor linkage, as this is many times what is wrong: Engine OFF. Hand throttle wide open. Remove left hood. Above the generator is the governor linkage. Remove the cotter pin from the carburetor link rod and let the link rod drop out of the governors cross arm hole. The length of the link rod should be so it will slide right back into the governor cross arm hole. If the link rod is too short, remove it and take out some of the kinks to make it longer so it will match up with the hole.

The rod and hole were miss matched by ¾". What I did was clamp a piece of rod to the carburetor linkage. Unfortunately the problem was still there. However there is some slop where the linkage piviots on top of the governor. That rod doesn't have stress so it wouldn't likely warp or bend out of shape. Bending a fixed linkage to fix an adjustment or wear problem is typically bad advice. Your better off fixing it right.

 

[DrAllis]

Glad you got it fixed. You accomplished the same thing that I would have by un-bending the link rod or the cross arm. Matching the link rod length to the cross arm is absolutely crucial for a good governor. Your ignorance to the repair shows. Bending linkage is what the A-C service manual wants you to do because they did not provide a threaded type of adjustment. They didn't want unqualified people adjusting things they knew nothing about. The fact that it was 3/4" off means someone else who didn't know what they were doing screwed that all up for you.

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

check the adjustment of the governor linkage, as this is many times what is wrong: Engine OFF. Hand throttle wide open. Remove left hood. Above the generator is the governor linkage. Remove the cotter pin from the carburetor link rod and let the link rod drop out of the governors cross arm hole. The length of the link rod should be so it will slide right back into the governor cross arm hole. If the link rod is too short, remove it and take out some of the kinks to make it longer so it will match up with the hole.

The rod and hole were miss matched by ¾". What I did was clamp a piece of rod to the carburetor linkage. Unfortunately the problem was still there. However there is some slop where the linkage piviots on top of the governor. That rod doesn't have stress so it wouldn't likely warp or bend out of shape. Bending a fixed linkage to fix an adjustment or wear problem is typically bad advice. Your better off fixing it right.

You come asking for advice but then are telling the resident expert he is wrong?

 

[8NChris]

You come asking for advice but then are telling the resident expert he is wrong?

No, don't like nor appreciate unwarranted smart nnalert comments. I don't make them nor accept them.

 

[8NChris]

No, don't like nor appreciate unwarranted smart nnalert comments. I don't make them nor accept them.

nnalert is supposed to be a s s. That is a software call just remove the spaces

 

[DrAllis]

" bending a fixed linkage to fix an adjustment or wear problem is typically bad advice. You're better off fixing it right." One big problem trying to help some people is, I have no idea what has actually been done to their piece of equipment, in the past, to possibly cause the operational problem. Standing next to the machine I can usually diagnose the problem exactly in a couple of minutes. As it is on a website like this one, I am assuming I know what the problem is from 50+ years of experience as to what it usually is. And by a description of what the poster is saying. You were given good advice with what information you provided. Governor linkages on those West Allis built engines were never provided with adjustable linkages. That's just the way it is. For all I know you could have broken governor weights causing the problem if it still has a problem. That scenario makes the throttle lever quite quick when opened up from a dead idle.