fordNford1911
New User
Hello,
I'm looking for any mechanics who have rebuilt this specific Ford 4600 power steering. I had a local mechanic here in south africa try and put new seals however they failed to re-assemble correctly and it only worked for 30 minutes. Because they would not honor their work, I have had to open myself, I think the mechanic's workers probably did not know how to fit it back together correctly, and some of the ball bearings were not in the correct place. It all started with a seal leak, however after the mechanic added the seal, the 4600 would "only" turn to the right after 30 minutes of use. It's been 7 months and the tractor is still standing idle.
Currently, I have removed the complete steering with the pitman gear arm in the forward position, however after disassembly to potentially find the problem with the ball bearings, You can see in the photos that the pitman arm is now in the complete reverse positions and will not line up with drag link. Maybe I can just pull the pitman arm off the splines and re-position it forward how I need to link up, but I think this could also alter the function even after centering the steering wheel. Correct me if I am wrong. The problem is that I need the pitman arm in the forward position, and I need there to be no binding in the steering shaft as it will not move freely, as it did when the upper steering column (shaft) was still removed.
It was very difficult to get all the ball bearings to go back into the steering system correctly, but finally got it (after many attempts) to where the balls would remain in the correct position around the steering screw and it move nicely up and down as it should.
Questions:
1. Should I dismount again, or just remove the upper parts of the steering until I can pull the pitman arm in the forward position again? Do I need to remove the cover plate again from the lower gear assembly?
2. Upon disassembly I found 2 metal shims above the steering box(motor), and 4 shims (2 metal and 2 translucent plastic) below the steering box. I only put back the 2 metal shims (2 above and 2 below) because i've never seen plastic ones. The plastic ones were quite thin. Should I put them back? I have recently read you are not to tighten one of these sections down very tight, so I do not know how to correctly tighten. Any advice with which section has to be tightened correctly and how to measure?
3. In the parts diagram (attached) part #37 looked to be an o-ring, however there was no names. I only later found a parts website brilliant enough to show the diagram & part identity. When looking at this https://www.mycnhstore.com it says the item is actually a "shim" and not a seal or ring. Before closing the cover plate, I have mistakenly placed a rubber o-ring from the seal kit I had from a 3500 in that spot because it was the same size. I assume I must remove this as it could be causing the pitman arm to bind and not return forward. There was no shim or seal in there when I initially removed the cover to the lower gear assembly, so I thought it wouldn't hurt, but correct me if i'm wrong to remove this o-ring.
Also to note: because I was unable to get the lower gear assembly door on by hand, a rubber hammer was used which caused the inner copper sleeve (on the cover plate photo 6) to create a heavy burr. I could literally only get the cover on 1/8" tops. So... we had to hone this inner sleeve with an air tool quite a bit to get the door to slide over the shaft. The small oil channel is still visible, but the sleeve is definitely not near what it should be new. We did not use a press to force the cover back on because we would not have been able to feel as we go, so a hammer was the only option because pushing by hand was also not possible. The cover plate is back on and tightened, however I'm thinking now that maybe the cover plate would not push on originally was because the pitman arm was not in the same position as upon initial steering removal. I do not think I can get a new copper sleeve, but this being low pressure oil system maybe our honing it will not cause too much issue. Please let me know if this was a terrible mistake, or if it will be fine for awhile, or if I must really find a new sleeve (if possible).
Plans for this week are to remove the cover again to remove the o-ring. I am not sure where to find a shim or if one could be made from cork board (if I knew the size to cut out). Parts are near impossible in south africa (along with good help), and I'm never back in the states anymore to get easy help. If the arm will move forward then maybe the binding will free up and the steering wheel will turn freely again. Unless I get other advice, I will also remove the upper steering column and maybe that will free up the binding. I do not know how many shims are needed in each place, but I thought I read Ford recommends at least 2 (which I have the 2 old ones, but maybe a third shim would be helpful.
Photos in order 1-7: 1. 4600 prior to removing steering 2. 4600 after steering re-fitment with pitman arm in rear position 3. steering diagram 4. part # 37 (shim) 5. lower gear assembly open 6. gear assembly door plate 7. metal & plastic shims
I don't want to be the guy that says "Please help!!" as good as that sounds, so just a thank you in advance for any advice to move onward without squirming any longer for all the mistakes.
I'm looking for any mechanics who have rebuilt this specific Ford 4600 power steering. I had a local mechanic here in south africa try and put new seals however they failed to re-assemble correctly and it only worked for 30 minutes. Because they would not honor their work, I have had to open myself, I think the mechanic's workers probably did not know how to fit it back together correctly, and some of the ball bearings were not in the correct place. It all started with a seal leak, however after the mechanic added the seal, the 4600 would "only" turn to the right after 30 minutes of use. It's been 7 months and the tractor is still standing idle.
Currently, I have removed the complete steering with the pitman gear arm in the forward position, however after disassembly to potentially find the problem with the ball bearings, You can see in the photos that the pitman arm is now in the complete reverse positions and will not line up with drag link. Maybe I can just pull the pitman arm off the splines and re-position it forward how I need to link up, but I think this could also alter the function even after centering the steering wheel. Correct me if I am wrong. The problem is that I need the pitman arm in the forward position, and I need there to be no binding in the steering shaft as it will not move freely, as it did when the upper steering column (shaft) was still removed.
It was very difficult to get all the ball bearings to go back into the steering system correctly, but finally got it (after many attempts) to where the balls would remain in the correct position around the steering screw and it move nicely up and down as it should.
Questions:
1. Should I dismount again, or just remove the upper parts of the steering until I can pull the pitman arm in the forward position again? Do I need to remove the cover plate again from the lower gear assembly?
2. Upon disassembly I found 2 metal shims above the steering box(motor), and 4 shims (2 metal and 2 translucent plastic) below the steering box. I only put back the 2 metal shims (2 above and 2 below) because i've never seen plastic ones. The plastic ones were quite thin. Should I put them back? I have recently read you are not to tighten one of these sections down very tight, so I do not know how to correctly tighten. Any advice with which section has to be tightened correctly and how to measure?
3. In the parts diagram (attached) part #37 looked to be an o-ring, however there was no names. I only later found a parts website brilliant enough to show the diagram & part identity. When looking at this https://www.mycnhstore.com it says the item is actually a "shim" and not a seal or ring. Before closing the cover plate, I have mistakenly placed a rubber o-ring from the seal kit I had from a 3500 in that spot because it was the same size. I assume I must remove this as it could be causing the pitman arm to bind and not return forward. There was no shim or seal in there when I initially removed the cover to the lower gear assembly, so I thought it wouldn't hurt, but correct me if i'm wrong to remove this o-ring.
Also to note: because I was unable to get the lower gear assembly door on by hand, a rubber hammer was used which caused the inner copper sleeve (on the cover plate photo 6) to create a heavy burr. I could literally only get the cover on 1/8" tops. So... we had to hone this inner sleeve with an air tool quite a bit to get the door to slide over the shaft. The small oil channel is still visible, but the sleeve is definitely not near what it should be new. We did not use a press to force the cover back on because we would not have been able to feel as we go, so a hammer was the only option because pushing by hand was also not possible. The cover plate is back on and tightened, however I'm thinking now that maybe the cover plate would not push on originally was because the pitman arm was not in the same position as upon initial steering removal. I do not think I can get a new copper sleeve, but this being low pressure oil system maybe our honing it will not cause too much issue. Please let me know if this was a terrible mistake, or if it will be fine for awhile, or if I must really find a new sleeve (if possible).
Plans for this week are to remove the cover again to remove the o-ring. I am not sure where to find a shim or if one could be made from cork board (if I knew the size to cut out). Parts are near impossible in south africa (along with good help), and I'm never back in the states anymore to get easy help. If the arm will move forward then maybe the binding will free up and the steering wheel will turn freely again. Unless I get other advice, I will also remove the upper steering column and maybe that will free up the binding. I do not know how many shims are needed in each place, but I thought I read Ford recommends at least 2 (which I have the 2 old ones, but maybe a third shim would be helpful.
Photos in order 1-7: 1. 4600 prior to removing steering 2. 4600 after steering re-fitment with pitman arm in rear position 3. steering diagram 4. part # 37 (shim) 5. lower gear assembly open 6. gear assembly door plate 7. metal & plastic shims
I don't want to be the guy that says "Please help!!" as good as that sounds, so just a thank you in advance for any advice to move onward without squirming any longer for all the mistakes.
