Ford 4600 alternator info

I think my alternator is bad. I’m only at 12.8V when idling and even revving up to 1800 rpms or so. Here is the existing alternator. Grok is telling me I should look into a delco 3 wire alternator upgrade and I thought I’d ask if this is something that’s actually recommended and worth doing. Here it’s what is on it currently.

IMG_0258.jpeg


Some of you might have seen a post I made a couple months of ago when I shopped for and bought this tractor. I’ve made a number of upgrades. I welded on a roof structure to help me get on it. I also used this structure to mount the rear remote joysticks. They were formally just on a 2x6 spanned between the two axles. I also added rigid stabilizers and a quick hitch.
IMG_0114.jpeg


Lastly, I converted the pin loader to skid steer quick connect. It came out pretty well. I need to add some teeth to my bucket but I’m very happy with the machine so far.
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Would appreciate advice on what to do with the alternator and what model I should go with.

- John
 
There’s a new identical Lucas on eBay right now for about $160. You can get a rebuilt Delco for much cheaper. I guess it’s your choice on how original you want to keep it.
Your local rebuild shop (if you have one), could possibly rebuild it cheaper, but if your regulator needs replacing, parts can add up fast.
 
There’s a new identical Lucas on eBay right now for about $160. You can get a rebuilt Delco for much cheaper. I guess it’s your choice on how original you want to keep it.
Your local rebuild shop (if you have one), could possibly rebuild it cheaper, but if your regulator needs replacing, parts can add up fast.
Is the regulator part of the alternator or is it located somewhere else? I don’t really care about it being all original as long as I don’t hurt it or compromise it’s usefulness.
 
On the 7600/5600 that was here had the regulator was mounted near the dash if I remember correctly. I know I had to replace it on the 7600. Long time ago. Remember it being a small black box. Wiring harness plugged into it. Here is a picture from eBay I just found.
IMG_0657.png
 
I measured the voltage with the engine on at the battery terminals to determine the alternator was bad. Is there another test I should do to check if the regulator is fault too? Or replace the alternator first.
 
As always, your tractor, your money, your choice. Personally, unless the tractor currently has a generator and I'm converting to an alternator (which requires different brackets, pulley, belt length, ETC) I tend to stay away from the Delco style units.

I can't tell from your photo what the back side looks like, but from the frame style it looks to me like this one might work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/137240358144?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D1110006%26rkt%3D4%26mech%3D1%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatRecoCpcRecall%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sd%3D276819143010%26sid%3DAQALAAAAEHdnBU5APIaQhSAO0AwOP3w%3D%26itm%3D137240358144%26noa%3D1%26plcampt%3D0%3A14505659011%2C5%3AAG8188045471%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26brand%3DDB+Electrical%26asc%3D309985,309867%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D3%26pid%3D101875%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D100%26meid%3D6ace667a3a5e4a648f3410f4989c14dc%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1372403581446ace667a3a5e4a648f3410f4989c14dc%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABIM87TX5H0eTTsU0jhiGaG1EtQgE8jx9oVlixx3naPMyrOidPpEy2srdXZYwUdNOUcHMr7x989oIgC0y4irNgM6xKKrFhFLBqUqBVFrAGVpKMwseLLx7Z41aZA3w%252FbQeXPzXvLn6lDHJ%252BUNPo54BMZAEsLnPDED7BB6KDJhJVWDhA3Kyzy8nU44EyqJmmztZnCeHsm5BWJfdfQNQVa6FkYzhmBIbMi3QhkiDdtmuuyCcXBr9GDQzGMKdu58P245Vi9UDuEjWoDmvC4xeknsfemmEFV2nxZg%252B1Ijos98CCX5PR%252BtqJ0Ir7sxG9aaQ1MGsH5heErtguMbGjUgM9fMRouQxsOmR0r6W0QnB%252ByGx2HUofREZnA1sfhtENHTouAXZFZw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APLP_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KWTMV8Q4YAJ6CY99MD5SDEXW
 
Your dash light is bright red with key on before starting.?It won't excite if bulb is burned out. Here is video on A127 Lucas. You can change brushes and regulator as a unit on the tractor.

 
As always, your tractor, your money, your choice. Personally, unless the tractor currently has a generator and I'm converting to an alternator (which requires different brackets, pulley, belt length, ETC) I tend to stay away from the Delco style units.

I can't tell from your photo what the back side looks like, but from the frame style it looks to me like this one might work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/137240358144?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D1110006%26rkt%3D4%26mech%3D1%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatRecoCpcRecall%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sd%3D276819143010%26sid%3DAQALAAAAEHdnBU5APIaQhSAO0AwOP3w%3D%26itm%3D137240358144%26noa%3D1%26plcampt%3D0%3A14505659011%2C5%3AAG8188045471%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26brand%3DDB+Electrical%26asc%3D309985,309867%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D3%26pid%3D101875%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D100%26meid%3D6ace667a3a5e4a648f3410f4989c14dc%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1372403581446ace667a3a5e4a648f3410f4989c14dc%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABIM87TX5H0eTTsU0jhiGaG1EtQgE8jx9oVlixx3naPMyrOidPpEy2srdXZYwUdNOUcHMr7x989oIgC0y4irNgM6xKKrFhFLBqUqBVFrAGVpKMwseLLx7Z41aZA3w%252FbQeXPzXvLn6lDHJ%252BUNPo54BMZAEsLnPDED7BB6KDJhJVWDhA3Kyzy8nU44EyqJmmztZnCeHsm5BWJfdfQNQVa6FkYzhmBIbMi3QhkiDdtmuuyCcXBr9GDQzGMKdu58P245Vi9UDuEjWoDmvC4xeknsfemmEFV2nxZg%252B1Ijos98CCX5PR%252BtqJ0Ir7sxG9aaQ1MGsH5heErtguMbGjUgM9fMRouQxsOmR0r6W0QnB%252ByGx2HUofREZnA1sfhtENHTouAXZFZw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APLP_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KWTMV8Q4YAJ6CY99MD5SDEXW
Harry, just future FYI.. see the two chain link icon up above?(it shows up when you are making a reply or is cued up in the reply box at the bottom of the thread) To add a link click that and paste your link in the upper box and name the link in the lower box. eBay adds, for one, are notoriously troublesome for the software to condense when pasted into the reply text box.
eBay alt
 
I think my alternator is bad. I’m only at 12.8V when idling and even revving up to 1800 rpms or so. Here is the existing alternator. Grok is telling me I should look into a delco 3 wire alternator upgrade and I thought I’d ask if this is something that’s actually recommended and worth doing. Here it’s what is on it currently.

View attachment 156514





Would appreciate advice on what to do with the alternator and what model I should go with.

- John
Your alternator is 70 Amp. A bit of an overkill, but it works so I'd stick with it. The CNH parts online parts page for the 4600 isn't helpful, but the 4630 used a 70 Amp alternator that I believe is backwards compatible. If you search Part No. E7NN10B376BB ALTERNATOR 70A online you will find several sources offering these for sale which also show the 4600 by application. This site also sells this alternator under Tractor Parts, Ford, 4630, Electrical. It appears your alternator was manufactured 10/05 and is Lucas Part No. 54084615B. It would be a lot easier to replace with same or rebuild what you have than it would be to wire in a one or three wire Delco.
 
Add a bolt on cutting edge to your bucket and add teeth to it. That way they can easily be removed for fine grading. I did that to both my tractor and skid steer.

20220719_155544_HDR.jpg
 
Harry, just future FYI.. see the two chain link icon up above?(it shows up when you are making a reply or is cued up in the reply box at the bottom of the thread) To add a link click that and paste your link in the upper box and name the link in the lower box. eBay adds, for one, are notoriously troublesome for the software to condense when pasted into the reply text box.
eBay alt
Oh great. Now we have the "link" police on the prowl. I guess some people just don't have enough to do.
 
Add a bolt on cutting edge to your bucket and add teeth to it. That way they can easily be removed for fine grading. I did that to both my tractor and skid steer.

View attachment 156526
Did you go with a bolt on cutting edge AND individual teeth separately? This bucket is worthless for even scooping relatively soft dirt or gravel so I need to do some upgrading ASAP. Have been looking at tooth bars or individual teeth but not a bolt on edge AND individual teeth. Is there any reason not to just add bolt on teeth to the bucket’s metal?
 
Your alternator is 70 Amp. A bit of an overkill, but it works so I'd stick with it. The CNH parts online parts page for the 4600 isn't helpful, but the 4630 used a 70 Amp alternator that I believe is backwards compatible. If you search Part No. E7NN10B376BB ALTERNATOR 70A online you will find several sources offering these for sale which also show the 4600 by application. This site also sells this alternator under Tractor Parts, Ford, 4630, Electrical. It appears your alternator was manufactured 10/05 and is Lucas Part No. 54084615B. It would be a lot easier to replace with same or rebuild what you have than it would be to wire in a one or three wire Delco.
Thanks for this. I will probably go this route. It’s going to be down for a bit when I pull it so I need to find a good time to do so. Right now I just charge up the battery in between uses.
 
Your dash light is bright red with key on before starting.?It won't excite if bulb is burned out. Here is video on A127 Lucas. You can change brushes and regulator as a unit on the tractor.

I don’t have any lights that light up on the dash. Maybe I should track down the burnt bulb first. Learning so much on here. Need to figure out which one it is and how to get to it.
 
I don’t have any lights that light up on the dash. Maybe I should track down the burnt bulb first. Learning so much on here. Need to figure out which one it is and how to get to it.
I am guessing here. Lights on dash , far left under fuel gauge, engine off ,key on, bulb should be lit. Start engine light goes out. Bulb needs to be lit or alternater won’t excite meaning it won’t start to charge. Good luck!
 
Did you go with a bolt on cutting edge AND individual teeth separately? This bucket is worthless for even scooping relatively soft dirt or gravel so I need to do some upgrading ASAP. Have been looking at tooth bars or individual teeth but not a bolt on edge AND individual teeth. Is there any reason not to just add bolt on teeth to the bucket’s metal?
I used a 1/2"x6" cutting edge cut to fit and welded the shanks on myself. Then drilled holes in the bucket to fit the edge.
 
Crazy… ok. Maybe I just need to change the light bulb.
If you cold access the small spade terminal you could excite by engine running above idle and momentarily touch a jumper to W terminal from battery +.
The W terminal and the small spade are common terminals for warning light/excitation.
You need the plug attached , This might work for testing purposes.
 
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