1949 Farmall Cub - Oil Around Spark Plugs

[GaDog]

Hello....Removed the hood and fuel tank to replace the radiator on my Farmall Cub. In the process I noticed oil around 2 spark plugs. I dont run this tractor a lot. I crank it every other month and do a few parades and hay rides. It smoke a little, but runs good. The plugs are most likely 10 years old...at least. I plan to replace the plugs. What is the torque setting to tighten plugs? Hope this solves the problem, but my gut says it is is internal. If I had the engine rebuilt, how will it cost me?
I am a novice mechanic at best. Radiator job is easy for me. Anything tech or electrical I need to let someone else handle it. Looking for feedback and input. Thanks in advance!

 

[Tgrasher]

If you have a torque wrench, compare the ft lbs of the plugs leaking and those that are not. If the motor runs good, it doesn't need any work unless you really want it to operate like new.

 

[used red MN]

What is the torque setting to tighten plugs?

Hello GaDog, welcome to YT! The spark plug torque is 34 ft lbs. I would be curious to know if that plug is even firing. When you pull it out take a picture of it and post it here. How brave are you when it comes to spark? Pull the opposite end of that plugs wire loose from the distributor cap and then lightly push it back in. Start the tractor and at an idle holding the plug wire about 3 inches back from the distributor cap pull the plug wire out of the cap terminal noting how the engine sounds. If you hear a distinct skip in the exhaust sound that means that cylinders spark plug is firing. If not obvious pulling the wire out of the cap is making that cylinder “misfire”. On the other hand if no change is heard that means the cylinder has been misfiring previously.

 

[GaDog]

Hello GaDog, welcome to YT! The spark plug torque is 34 ft lbs. I would be curious to know if that plug is even firing. When you pull it out take a picture of it and post it here. How brave are you when it comes to spark? Pull the opposite end of that plugs wire loose from the distributor cap and then lightly push it back in. Start the tractor and at an idle holding the plug wire about 3 inches back from the distributor cap pull the plug wire out of the cap terminal noting how the engine sounds. If you hear a distinct skip in the exhaust sound that means that cylinders spark plug is firing. If not obvious pulling the wire out of the cap is making that cylinder “misfire”. On the other hand if no change is heard that means the cylinder has been misfiring previously.

I pulled them all last night. I will send a photo later. I may try your spark test, but it will be a week or so. I pulled the radiator last weekend and will need to replace it. Plan to do the work this weekend if the bolt kit and gaskets gets here. Should I flush the cooling system with water through the inlet on the top of the motor? There is a lot of gunk in the resorvoir under the radiator.

On a side note, I got lucky yesterday. I have a IHC 424 in the restoration shop. Went by to take a look at it yesterday and the mechanic saw the radiator from the cub in my truck. He has a 1950 cub in 2 pieces....front end and rear end(no motor) with a radiator in near mint condition. He gave the me the radiator and told me I could have the entire front end for $150 and the rear end for $250. I gladly agreed and will be picking up tomorrow. The transmission on MY cub is missing 2nd gear. I had been thinking about getting it rebuilt, but seems the easiest option would be to swap the rear end I am about to acquire. I will be getting rims, fenders, steering rods, everything but the motor. Have not checked the vin, but we believe it's a 1950 model. Is it as simple as removing the bolts on the rear end on my tractor and swapping the rears out or much more involved??

 

[used red MN]

If that plug was not firing the end would have a big oily glob of black carbon goo covering the end of it. To push oil past a spark plug like that tell me that cylinder is getting a lot of oil intrusion.

Should I flush the cooling system with water through the inlet on the top of the motor?

Yes!

 

[GaDog]

If that plug was not firing the end would have a big oily glob of black carbon goo covering the end of it. To push oil past a spark plug like that tell me that cylinder is getting a lot of oil intrusion.

Yes!

Thank you. your insight is very much appreciated

 

[GaDog]

another dumb question. When i removed the plugs, it seemed the plugs were not very tight....meaning it took very little effort with the ratchet to loosen them. Thoughts?

 

[used red MN]

another dumb question. When i removed the plugs, it seemed the plugs were not very tight....meaning it took very little effort with the ratchet to loosen them. Thoughts?

The last installer just didn’t tighten them properly.

 

[Powered By IH]

another dumb question. When i removed the plugs, it seemed the plugs were not very tight....meaning it took very little effort with the ratchet to loosen them. Thoughts?

That might be part of your problem. What spark plugs are you putting back in?

I would also recommend loading the tractor good sometime and really making it work for a couple hours. This gets your cylinder temperatures up, and can help seal things back up.

You could also try adjusting your valves, and cleaning the crankcase breather (inside the dipstick tube).

Good luck!

 

[Richard G.]

That might be part of your problem. What spark plugs are you putting back in?

I would also recommend loading the tractor good sometime and really making it work for a couple hours. This gets your cylinder temperatures up, and can help seal things back up.

You could also try adjusting your valves, and cleaning the crankcase breather (inside the dipstick tube).

Good luck!

I agree.
That tractor needs to work hard a while.

 

[GaDog]

photos of plugs attached. Champion D16. I did not know there was a breather inside the dipstick tube....

 

[used red MN]

photos of plugs attached. Champion D16. I did not know there was a breather inside the dipstick tube....

Looks like they were probably firing.

 

[GaDog]

Looks like they were probably firing.

they tractor was running fairly well....what I am trying to learn is how the oil outside the plug. seems like they were not tight enought.

 

[Powered By IH]

photos of plugs attached. Champion D16. I did not know there was a breather inside the dipstick tube....

I would definitely change those and try Autolite 3116's instead. Plus working the tractor hard might do some good.

You can see the plugs were loose because the crush washer didn’t get crushed properly. The crush washer seal helps with the oil part.

It's the wire mesh inside the tall cap part. Don't know if that's part of your problem, but wouldn't hurt to clean since excess crankcase pressure starts pushing oil everywhere.

 

[da.bees]

On a side note, I got lucky yesterday. I have a IHC 424 in the restoration shop. Went by to take a look at it yesterday

"IHC 424 in the restoration shop." Now there's a smart man,no late nights,frazzled nerves and busted knuckles from tinkering with old tractor.

 

[GaDog]

"IHC 424 in the restoration shop." Now there's a smart man,no late nights,frazzled nerves and busted knuckles from tinkering with old tractor.

Amen....the 424 has one of those diesel engines that were made in England in 1965 that seems to have "unknown" rings....lol

 

[olddog]

I pulled them all last night. I will send a photo later. I may try your spark test, but it will be a week or so. I pulled the radiator last weekend and will need to replace it. Plan to do the work this weekend if the bolt kit and gaskets gets here. Should I flush the cooling system with water through the inlet on the top of the motor? There is a lot of gunk in the resorvoir under the radiator.

On a side note, I got lucky yesterday. I have a IHC 424 in the restoration shop. Went by to take a look at it yesterday and the mechanic saw the radiator from the cub in my truck. He has a 1950 cub in 2 pieces....front end and rear end(no motor) with a radiator in near mint condition. He gave the me the radiator and told me I could have the entire front end for $150 and the rear end for $250. I gladly agreed and will be picking up tomorrow. The transmission on MY cub is missing 2nd gear. I had been thinking about getting it rebuilt, but seems the easiest option would be to swap the rear end I am about to acquire. I will be getting rims, fenders, steering rods, everything but the motor. Have not checked the vin, but we believe it's a 1950 model. Is it as simple as removing the bolts on the rear end on my tractor and swapping the rears out or much more involved??

 

[olddog]

FYI, the early Cub Cadets (Garden Tractors) is also a good source for transmission parts.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I a customer run a tired farmall for years using heater hose to set the spark gap to jump that increased the firing voltage. He cut a 5/8 are 3/4 heater hose about a inch long he then drilled a hole thru the hose he then put the hose on the spark plug/plugs he inserted the plug wire on the other side of the hose. He then could set the gap between the plug wire and spark plug.

I brought s Farmall that had Spark Plug Non-Fouler on every spark plug, I ran it for a year are so like that. I had the hood off converting it to 12V I decided to check the valve adjustment they all were way to tight. I adjusted the valves left the Spark Plug Non-Foulers off its never gave me an issue that has been at least 15 years ago.

 

[NDIHC]

Looks to me like some slobber from incomplete combustion and under torqued spark plugs. I'm not fan of Champion, Bosch or Autolite plugs. I used to use AC Delco with good results but for the past 20 years I have used mostly NGK and sometimes Denso, depending on application. I think I'd throw in a set of NGKs, torque them properly and work the tractor a bit.
And as mentioned, adjusting the valves might be in order.