1938 allis B with 12 Battery &.Mag. have to pull to start.

yorke

Member
any ideas or suggestions !
runs good after pull start.
about 10 minutes of running !
tractor sat for long time with no love
 
Any details to share? What is it doing or not doing when you try to use the starter. We can't see it to have an idea of the problem; we need full disclosure to properly help you.
 
nothing, that all I have to offer, the battery Good.
Any details to share? What is it doing or not doing when you try to use the starter. We can't see it to have an idea of the problem; we need full disclosure to properly help you.
ii was hard to crank so we pull it.
I can't seem to post pic.
 

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nothing, that all I have to offer, the battery Good.

ii was hard to crank so we pull it.
I can't seem to post pic.
 

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nothing, that all I have to offer, the battery Good.

ii was hard to crank so we pull it.
I can't seem to post pic.
"Hard to crank", can you explain that better? I didn't chase the history of your posts on this but you bought it in a non-running condition, didn't you?

What checking have you done? "the battery good", doesn't mean anything when you have a cranking issue. Do you have the capability of doing electrical testing, or have someone who can, available to help you

Battery condition (voltage checked with voltmeter) before, during, and after cranking).

Are the cables good? All connections clean, bright and tight? Immediately after cranking, feel all the battery cable connections. A connection that feels warm maybe a problem, if one is hot, that one is most likely a problem.

Voltage drop tests of cables.

Starter condition (amperage draw).

Without doing the testing, everyone is totally just guessing and you can end up just throwing parts (money) at it.

Edited to correct wording.
 
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any ideas or suggestions !
runs good after pull start.
about 10 minutes of running !
tractor sat for long time with no love
Basic conditions for an engine to start to ask your self. First it takes compression! Next it needs fuel! Next it takes spark inside the firing chamber at the correct time.
Pulling the tractor will build up compression and pull fuel in to start if it has spark at the correct time. If it runs good after starting I would venture a guess you have ample fuel and proper timing. I would also guess your problem is compression.

After a tractor that was starting and running fine before not being started for a long period of time most likely will have rings that are not expanding and valves that are sticking which would reduce compression.

What I have found in the past is rust in the cylinder walls and valves that would not seal causing low compression.

If the tractor runs good, has pulling power and is not smoking I would run a can or more sea foam as directed on the can before a tear down.
If it is smoking and weak pulling a load it will need to be repaired for a easy start.

PS: Good compression also equals good vacuum to pull in fuel! You don't have one without the other.
 
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nothing, that all I have to offer, the battery Good.

ii was hard to crank so we pull it.
I can't seem to post pic.
We should clarify "crank" to avoid confusion as to the issue.

When you say crank do you mean turning the engine with the starter (or hand crank)? This is the common understanding of crank.

Or are you using crank as the engine running?
 
thanks,I ask my wrench man !
he started it yesterday by jumping starter to something & it ran.
hard rain last night how some wrench man come around.
my opinion it wireing or button to start??
thanks to all
I owned it since 12/22/25
 
I would guess that the mag (Fairbanks?) might need some love, especially in the setup of the impulse coupling. Pull-starting generally creates a higher engine RPM than hand or starter cranking, effectively masking impulse/lag problems.

I had a '38 which was crank-start only, and had no difficulty starting once the mag was set up properly.
 
yes,on Fairbanks . no one stops by to help me out. I did barrow a compression checker. bought two used rear tires $300.
maybe there will be help tomorrow
thanks for your time.
 
I would guess that the mag (Fairbanks?) might need some love, especially in the setup of the impulse coupling. Pull-starting generally creates a higher engine RPM than hand or starter cranking, effectively masking impulse/lag problems.

I had a '38 which was crank-start only, and had no difficulty starting once the mag was set up properly.
Pull-starting generally creates a higher engine RPM than hand or starter cranking, effectively masking impulse/lag problems.

(True) if the spring is weak or broken. Easy to check by placing the plug wire and plug on the block and watching for a spark at the plug when the mag trips If it is weak or broken you do not hear a loud snap.
 
thanks, went for ride yesterday, jumped to starter & rolling
hope some one stop today to help me out. my guy yesterday jump it.
but had to leave.
 
Looks like you are running a 12v battery. All the battery does is turn over the starter to turn the engine. Has nothing to do with the ignition but it needs to turn it fast enough for the magneto. Are you sure your battery is good. Does it still have a generator? Looks like it has been converted to push button start with a solenoid. Try jumping the starter from your battery. If it starts check the rest of the wires back from the starter. Where are you located?
 
yes on button starter, no genator, 12 volts battery check good
we start it by Battery to starter them it runs. I need my wire man to show up. I think wire or button issue
North East Dane, county, wi
 
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