I'm buying it: 1951 Ford 8N

[bradleydavidgood]

I'm going to split the difference. I like 12V for all the reasons mentioned, but have no problems with points. If I was in the OPs shoes, I would get a 12V battery and a set of points. Replace the points and disconnect the wires to the generator and voltage regulator. Crank it and see if I had spark. If spark, then make sure it was plug wired correctly, then a bit of 2 stroke in the carb and see if it will fire up. If all that is good then clean the fuel tank and/or carb. Lastly put the alternator on and wire it up. In my mind too many changes all at once is not a good diagnostic method.

Thank you!

 

[soaked]

Pertronix 1244A? Or other?
If you dont have a timing light, best to get one.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

When you convert to 12 volt, electronic ignition, switch to negative ground and it still won't start, then what are you going to do?

I will walk thru the basic troubleshooting, step by step, just as I would if I walked up to the tractor and it was already converted.
The benefit is that I have all new parts installed, and a standard modern system and don't have all of these old variables in place.

 

[soaked]

Also, suggest save your old points. Use them to locate static timing (on the dist housing)-- when the points first break open. It might be findable by voltage change if on EI, but certainly easier to see points opening.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Pertronix 1244A? Or other?
If you dont have a timing light, best to get one.

Yes my (work in process) parts list is in the other 12V conversion thread.

What type of timing light should I buy? Anything specific about it?

I was under the impression that I could verify TDC with the piston position and air pressure, verify the plugs were wired correctly, and set the timing by marks in places on the tractor, then rotate the distributor to dial it in by just turning it a little each way.

That's how we got the Farmall 140 started and dialed in.

The 8N can't be done that way?

Thanks!

 

[bradleydavidgood]

12V conversion thread

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Also, suggest save your old points. Use them to locate static timing (on the dist housing)-- when the points first break open. It might be findable by voltage change if on EI, but certainly easier to see points opening.

Could do something like this?

1. Rotate the engine to TDC.
2. Loosen the distributor.
3. Rotate the distributor until the points just begin to open.
4. Tighten the distributor.
5. Reinstall the EI module if you were only using the points to find timing.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I should have posted that in the other thread. Let's keep 12V conversion conversation in that thread.

12V conversion thread

 

[Jim L WA]

12V conversion thread

I'm not knocking the 12 volt conversion. It would be stupid to buy a new 6 volt battery then find out the generator or regulator were bad. I was just agreeing that it might be better to get the tractor running first, then do your change mods.

 

[soaked]

The 12 volt conversion link in post 26 and 28 dont work on my samsung phone. Post 4 only has grid lines, no words.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

The 12 volt conversion link in post 26 and 28 dont work on my samsung phone. Post 4 only has grid lines, no words.

Sorry, that's my fault. It was not a public thread, it was a PM.

I made a public thread and here is the link:

Ford 8N 12V EI conversion​

 

[soaked]

I dont have any PM mail, oh well, ( I do know how to )
I see the new post on the other forum.
1244A + suppression wires, dont see a coil listed.
Here is a 3.0 ohm flamethrower 40511

8N sidemounts have two sets of timing marks. One set is for #1 and #4 cylinders, the other set is for #2 and #3 cylinders.
Looking in the valve cover at the #3 exhaust valve as it starts to lift, will give compression stroke for #1. Its easy to run the starter right past the one you're hunting for, and land on the other mark. Back fire and no joy.
Can search Induction Timing Light for a selection.

 

[FWB in SK]

Just curios: What would the hose be for that you see under the tractor seat in second picture.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Just curios: What would the hose be for that you see under the tractor seat in second picture.

Good question

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I dont have any PM mail, oh well, ( I do know how to )
I see the new post on the other forum.
1244A + suppression wires, dont see a coil listed.
Here is a 3.0 ohm flamethrower 40511
View attachment 156888
8N sidemounts have two sets of timing marks. One set is for #1 and #4 cylinders, the other set is for #2 and #3 cylinders.
Looking in the valve cover at the #3 exhaust valve as it starts to lift, will give compression stroke for #1. Its easy to run the starter right past the one you're hunting for, and land on the other mark. Back fire and no joy.
Can search Induction Timing Light for a selection.

OK thanks!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Just curios: What would the hose be for that you see under the tractor seat in second picture.

The Sauder loader/blade that goes with the brackets on the front axle.

TOH

 

[Jim in LA]

I have a '49 with original 6 volt system and a'51 with 12 volt conversion. The 12 volt system provides faster starts but it slams the starter bendix into the ring gear really hard.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I'm a 12V EI guy what I don't understand is why you would not get it running on the conventional ignition system it has. I have farmalls a 140 and 100 both 12V EI they fired right up on points as they do on EI Farmall has it going on they are the best tractor at firing off as I have ever seen. Farmalls don't share the cold nature sprit Ford has I don't know why I think the Zenith carb is a much better carb.

I don't know what magic you are looking for I will point out conventional are EI they will both suffer from the same issues you can take that observation to the bank.

 

[Tall T]

I have a '49 with original 6 volt system and a'51 with 12 volt conversion. The 12 volt system provides faster starts but it slams the starter bendix into the ring gear really hard.

Hmmm . . .
Could that explain the many reported broken bendix's which has always been a mystery to me since joining this forum.

As mentioned, in my 6 volt van I power the starter with a 12 volt but because I engage and retract the bendix manually that solenoid force is eliminated.
I cut a slot in my engine surround for the starter button which is normally by the gas pedal in a '47 to '54 chev truck where the engine is forward of the firewall.
To make it easier when reaching down from the seat, I turned an Austin gas pedal assembly into a starter arm.
the arm slides sideways on its shaft to be centered on the button for starting.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

I'm a 12V EI guy what I don't understand is why you would not get it running on the conventional ignition system it has. I have farmalls a 140 and 100 both 12V EI they fired right up on points as they do on EI Farmall has it going on they are the best tractor at firing off as I have ever seen. Farmalls don't share the cold nature sprit Ford has I don't know why I think the Zenith carb is a much better carb.

I don't know what magic you are looking for I will point out conventional are EI they will both suffer from the same issues you can take that observation to the bank.

I explained this in post #17