Looking at a Ford 3910, need some advice please…

[lodoc]

Pass. Keep looking...

 

[NDIHC]

Weird seeing those little tractors with duals!

 

[sandcastle1]

I would suggest hiring the mowing done and not being in a rush to purchase anything.

 

[Texasmark]

Thank you for your input. May I ask why you wouldnt buy it?

Overworked probably, no telling the maintenance history on it, number of hours used question also. One problem I have with duals on tractors like that is the outboard tires easily run into some implements when navigating irregular fields (tight turns). On some implements it's tight enough with singles on the rear for me. Other thing I don't like on a lot of tractors, especially Fords which have made up my corral (for the most part).....all the bracing along the engine area makes for difficult maintenance in that area. I like loaders that are braced from the main casting, mid to rear mounting......like most loader tractors made in the last 20 years. I have 2 loader tractors, 65 and 25 HP and both are less than 20 years old. Have no problem with them....raise the loader, remove the quick release side panels, and you have access to everything. One thing a loader on any tractor will do for you is provide front end weight when you are lifting a heavy 3 pt. load, rather than having to add expensive weights (or rigging something) to keep the front tires on the ground.

I agree with "wh" in that loaders aren't your friend on steep banks and if you have to work that kind of an area, up and down, not sideways along the bank is the only safe way to work it.

 

[Raise]

I would suggest hiring the mowing done and not being in a rush to purchase anything.

I would do exactly that but with my acreage it costs around $1000 to mow it. I have received several quotes from several local companies and individuals with bush hogs and the prices were at or just above $1000.

 

[wh]

I would do exactly that but with my acreage it costs around $1000 to mow it. I have received several quotes from several local companies and individuals with bush hogs and the prices were at or just above $1000.

One time payment of $1000 might be cheap. It will allow you time to look and not be rushed into the wrong one

 

[Raise]

Overworked probably, no telling the maintenance history on it, number of hours used question also. One problem I have with duals on tractors like that is the outboard tires easily run into some implements when navigating irregular fields (tight turns). On some implements it's tight enough with singles on the rear for me. Other thing I don't like on a lot of tractors, especially Fords which have made up my corral (for the most part).....all the bracing along the engine area makes for difficult maintenance in that area. I like loaders that are braced from the main casting, mid to rear mounting......like most loader tractors made in the last 20 years. I have 2 loader tractors, 65 and 25 HP and both are less than 20 years old. Have no problem with them....raise the loader, remove the quick release side panels, and you have access to everything. One thing a loader on any tractor will do for you is provide front end weight when you are lifting a heavy 3 pt. load, rather than having to add expensive weights (or rigging something) to keep the front tires on the ground.

I agree with "wh" in that loaders aren't your friend on steep banks and if you have to work that kind of an area, up and down, not sideways along the bank is the only safe way to work it.

Thank you. So your opinion is instead of going with duals and navigating sideways on the slopes, only go up and down? Wont that require 4wd from the tractor?

 

[wh]

Go down the steepest. Go around or up the easier part. Rinse and repeat. If tractor starts to overrun itself, then either too steep or too slow. Use that area between your ears! Neighbor was mowing pond dam several years ago. Fairly steep but not bad. I mow worse areas. He was using a narrow front ih 404. Almost done. Something happened. They think he hit a fire ant mound. Tractor flipped forward. Buried him 3 days later. Some places are better cleaned with goats or let it grow trees.

 

[sotxbill]

Priced high.. Dual probably added to give stabillity with the loader up high in the air...as if they were stacking or setting rafters or hay very high??? That tractor with 3000 hours would sell for 9 to 13k with a loader, tops around here. Condition is everything. So you can buy a worn out tractor with 3k hours or a very good tractor with 7k hours on it.. Do NOT buy a worn out tractor. If it cranks a long time before starting.... has a lot of blow by... (all diesels have a little).. Leaks at all the trans pedal fittings, has lots of slop play in the spindles... and spindle pivot, trans jumps out of gear...axle seals leak.... all show hard use and wear... However if its tight as a fiddle... offer no more than 12k and see.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Wow! I don't think I've seen so many negative opinions on anything short of self castration. While I do agree the Ford is probably not a wise choice, I do wonder about the John deere. Was this tractor "on the farm" and used there or did it come from somewhere else? Can you work a deal with the owner to try it out to see how it handles what you plan to use it for?

 

[Wdj]

Don't work on your steeper slopes until you have used your tractor enough that when things start going bad your reaction and response is automatic. It's all a matter of physics, the problem is gaining enough experience to accurately judge the situation. Work into it gradually, don't be in a hurry. I work on some ground that is quite steep and never approach it without a plan. Walk it first, look for holes, dropoffs, stumps etc. Most risks can be mitigated somewhat with a little thought. Keep your mind on what you're doing. Shut off the radio headphones. And then, there's the point where you say that's it. Park the tractor and pick up the weed eater.

 

[sandcastle1]

I would do exactly that but with my acreage it costs around $1000 to mow it. I have received several quotes from several local companies and individuals with bush hogs and the prices were at or just above $1000.

that is not really much money compared to buy something that is not going to work for your situation. After you purchase the tractor you still need to purchase a rotary mower and those are not cheap.

 

[Destroked 450]

Thank you for the info. Do you mow your hillsides with the 2wd tractor? I was told that if youre mowing hills, you will need duals for mowing sideways so you dont tip over, and that you will need 4wd so that when you are going up or down hills, the front wheel drive will keep you from sliding and ending up in a free roll down the hill. If you mow your hills with the 2wd tractor, can you tell me what your secret is or give me some tips?

I mow with 2wd tractors as that’s all I have, I’m not against 4wd but other than mowing a couple of steep pasture hillsides I don’t have much use for a 4wd and it’s extra maintenance and power requirements, the holdback ability going down the hills would be nice but I make sure I have a place for the tractor to run out if and when it starts sliding, as for as 4wd getting me up the hill if in 2wd the tractor spins out going up it’s time to back off and approach it differently or leave it
I mow with 2 different tractors, my 4000 Ford with a 10ft trailed mower and my 6600 with a 15ft batwing
Here’s the 6600 spread out wide with loaded rear tires for traction and weights on the front to keep the front tires on the ground, it’ll be getting a roll bar in the future
I transverse the hills at a 45° angle so that I’m not going straight up and down any more than necessary and never sideways on the steepest parts, this also allows me to quickly turn it downhill if things start getting out of shape

I like a trailed mower on hillsides over a 3 point, in mowing position if the front end comes up the mower skids will hit the ground and stop the tractor from going higher and possibly tipping backwards, also if you need to turn downhill quickly your not trying to sling the mower up the hill, if the mower hits something and stops swinging up hill your suddenly stuck sideways on a hill you shouldn’t be sideways on
I have mowed these same hills in my younger days with a 800 Ford and 5ft 3 point mower, no way I’d do that today

 

[Raise]

Go down the steepest. Go around or up the easier part. Rinse and repeat. If tractor starts to overrun itself, then either too steep or too slow. Use that area between your ears! Neighbor was mowing pond dam several years ago. Fairly steep but not bad. I mow worse areas. He was using a narrow front ih 404. Almost done. Something happened. They think he hit a fire ant mound. Tractor flipped forward. Buried him 3 days later. Some places are better cleaned with goats or let it grow trees.

So if I go down the steepest, what happens if the tractor starts to free roll? Without 4wd i will oy have the brakes to control my stop right?

 

[wh]

So if I go down the steepest, what happens if the tractor starts to free roll? Without 4wd i will oy have the brakes to control my stop right?

All I ever mowed with is a 2 wd. Always, always, always have a plan. When I mowed with the 5600 and 8ft trailing mower (think heavy), had a section about 100 ft wide and 175/200 ft long that would cause the ford to start sliding about half way down. Bottom end had about a 200 ft long spot that leveled out. Gave me plenty of room to regain traction. With the cx90 and 15 ft batwing it will hold back and not slide. Neighbor has a newer 70ish hp jd. 4 wd . Have been up with my cx90 and pulled him out of a few places he thought the 4wd would get him thru. IMHO 4wd not the miracle cure all the time. That space between your ears is very valuable. If you have never used a tractor take it slow and get familiar with your equipment.

 

[NDIHC]

What was done about mowing the property before you bought it? Did the prior owner keep it all mowed or did they just let the grass grow? Knowing what they did and what equipment they used might give some insight into what works for that particular property. Personally, on my home 80 acres, I keep the yard mowed, about 4 acres, and the rest just grows naturally. The renter of the crop land cuts the ditches and a pasture for hay once a year. One other section has been cut and baled 2 or 3 times in the past 20 some years but it's only about 10 acres and hardly worth the time and effort even though there is an incredible amount of hay in about half of that part of the land.

 

[Wdj]

So if I go down the steepest, what happens if the tractor starts to free roll? Without 4wd i will oy have the brakes to control my stop right?

If your tires are already breaking loose going downhill hitting the brakes will make it worse! Increasing engine speed may gain a little control. Gently lower loader bucket for a little more friction.

 

[cjunrau]

So if I go down the steepest, what happens if the tractor starts to free roll? Without 4wd i will oy have the brakes to control my stop right?

I have the steepest hills anyone can farm. I have had the upper tire loose traction driving on a side slope. Fluid filled and set wide. 1650 cockshutt. Going up hill with a haybine it runs out of oil in the neck going up the hill. All 2 wd tractors. I do have a front assist but now but never use doing hay or cutting. Up and down and you will never free wheel unless you choose a high gear and stall out, or something breaks. I would also not buy the ford, the JD looks like it might be an option, at least it is not priced at double the value.

 

[Raise]

Well th

Priced high.. Dual probably added to give stabillity with the loader up high in the air...as if they were stacking or setting rafters or hay very high??? That tractor with 3000 hours would sell for 9 to 13k with a loader, tops around here. Condition is everything. So you can buy a worn out tractor with 3k hours or a very good tractor with 7k hours on it.. Do NOT buy a worn out tractor. If it cranks a long time before starting.... has a lot of blow by... (all diesels have a little).. Leaks at all the trans pedal fittings, has lots of slop play in the spindles... and spindle pivot, trans jumps out of gear...axle seals leak.... all show hard use and wear... However if its tight as a fiddle... offer no more than 12k and see.

Well the land owner told me he put the duals on there so he could mow sideways on the hills

 

[Harry in Ky]

If he used it and is still alive to tell about it, then it's worth a try. Better option than the Ford. Probably worth discussing with him.